murphy

Replace the 12 volt battery. It probably shorted a few cells when it went completely dead. The car will not let the HVB go dead. With no 12 volt battery there is no way to close the contactors to connect the HVB to the car.

Maintenance free batteries usually have sealed caps to prevent the addition of water. When adding water to a battery that does allow it the water must be distilled water. Tap water usually has minerals and salts that will kill a battery.

The problem with the Fusion Hybrid or Energi is they must be driven daily to keep the 12 volt battery charged. After a week or so the battery will be dead. Once it is dead it is permanently damaged. It's a wet cell lead acid battery. It should have been an AGM battery. If it can't be driven daily a 12 volt battery charger will solve the problem. The car is loaded with microprocessors that are never turned off. My 2021 Mach-E came with an AGM battery installed. Tesla very quickly switched from wet cell lead acid to an AGM battery.

Multiple failures that seem to be unrelated are usually the result of a failed ground connection. It can also be caused by a cheap OBD2 reader that corrupts the buss. Tesla had a problem at the factory where a ground stud on a frame rail was over torqued leading to it eventually snapping off.

The recommended tire pressure is on a sticker on the driver's door opening. I no longer have a Fusion but all 4 tires were the same pressure on the one that I had. Are you sure the pressure had been adjusted? It's winter and changing temperatures will change the pressure. They change 1 psi for each 10 degree F change in temperature.

When you fill the tank do you stop when the pump nozzle clicks off? If you keep forcing fuel into the tank it will end up in a place where it is not supposed to go. I think that is the evaporative canister which is only supposed to process gasoline fumes, not liquid gasoline. I no longer own a Fusion so I'm commenting from memory.

The engine does not run all of the time. 10k on the odometer does not mean there is 10k on the engine. The Energi oil change interval is 20k. 5k oil changes is a money maker for the dealer.

Before the battery goes dead tie a small rope to the trunk emergency exit handle. Fold down the right rear seat and tie the other end to the latch bar for the seat. When the battery goes dead open the car using the hidden key slot, fold down the seat and yank the rope.

Is the car set to charge now? i.e. No charge time profiles. Do the receptacles have valid ground connections? Does the GFCI trip?

The cells in a battery need to match perfectly so they charge and discharge at the same rate. If they are mismatched they will get different charges because charging must stop when the best cell is fully charged. Overcharging a Li-Ion cell will result in fire and destruction of the cell. The mismatch will get worse over time because the worst cells will never be fully charged.. To balance a battery the cells must be individually charged. A big expensive battery may have balancing capability built in. An inexpensive battery is unlikely to have that capability.

If you mean that the engine won't start, the engine is started by the high voltage battery. Does the green light in the the lower right corner of the display turn on? If yes, the car is on. With the car in Park press the accelerator pedal all of the way and wait. If it starts, release the pedal. Did you try to drive it"? If the green light is on you should be able to move the car under battery power.

I used the audio inputs to connect an external XM radio that has a lifetime subscription. I never used the video input because when the car is in park I am not in it. Does your car have navigation built-in? If it does you would get a letter from Ford once a year wanting to sell you an updated map for $150.00. The map comes on an SD card that plugs into that socket. Yes C can be used to charge a phone. It is a standard USB port with a maximum current of 0.5 ampere so it won't be as fast as a modern charger.

The A inputs are for stereo audio input (red and white) and video input (yellow). Video only works when the car is in park. B is the SD connector where the SD card for the on board map resides. C are standard USB ports that can be used to plug in a USB stick containing your audio collection. They are also used for the very infrequent updates to Sync. D is a 12 volt power supply that is limited to 15 amps. It can NOT be used for a cigarette lighter. It would probably catch fire.

If the dead battery had two cells shorted out it would limit the voltage to 8 volts no matter what the jump battery was capable of.

It depends on the weather. There have been a lot of cloudy days lately so solar production is down. On a sunny month the electric bill is the power company's minimum charge which varies around $10. i.e. I produced more than I used. The best month for this is June when the Sun is high in the sky. In the winter with snow on the panels they produce nothing. The house load with the Air Conditioning running averages 40 kWh per day. So far this year I have paid the power company for 1968 kWh.

Final cost after 30% federal tax credit and state rebate was $22,000.

8 years or 100,000 miles was the warranty. The hybrid battery is supposed to last for the life of the car. I find it strange that two weeks after they replaced the brake fluid the brakes don't work. The brake booster is electric since it has to work when the engine isn't running and vacuum isn't available. The first thing they should have done, IMHO, is purge the brake lines to guarantee there is no air in them. I had a 2010 Fusion Hybrid, bought new in April 2009, and did not have any problem with the brakes. I traded it in on a 2013 Fusion Energi in April 2013 so it never had high mileage while I owned it.

I use a Schumacher smart charger that will fully charge the battery and then stop charging and monitor the battery. The one I have has separate selections for wet cell, AGM, and gel cell batteries. A wet cell lead acid battery was designed to deliver a high current for a few seconds and then immediately be recharged. They do not maintain their voltage well as they discharge. If they are completely discharged material flakes off of the plates and accumulates at the bottom of the cell. When the pile of debris reaches the bottom of the plates it shorts out the cell and that is the end of that battery. An AGM battery maintains good voltage all of the way until it is near the discharge point. It is not damaged by being discharged. Ford, presumably, didn't put one in the car because they are more expensive.

There are terminals under the hood to charge the 12 volt battery. On the driver side of the car look for a red flexible covering for the + terminal. Directly behind the red terminal is a bolt sticking up out of the shock absorber tower. That is the - terminal. Unlike older cars this car is loaded with microprocessors that are never turned off. I replaced the wet cell lead acid 12 volt battery in my 2013 car with an AGM battery which is what Ford should have installed at the factory.

The earth ground in a properly wired circuit does not carry any current. Some EVSEs will not work if the earth ground is not connected. A GFCI compares the current in the hot wire and the neutral. If they are not the same the GFCI will trip on the assumption that the mismatch is being caused by a person in contact with the hot wire. We are now at the point where the source of the heat may be in the EVSE plug. The EVSE that came with my 2013 Energi was recalled because it did not have a way to detect heat buildup in the plug. Are the prongs on the plug clean and parallel? Do you know anyone that owns a PHEV (Plugin Hybrid Electric Vehicle) or a BEV (Battery Electric Vehicle). Manufacturer does not matter, they are all the same. If their EVSE works with your car at your house it means the problem is in your EVSE. Take it to your dealer and have them charge the car using your EVSE and with their EVSE. If they are an electric certified dealer they are required to have one or two EVSEs.

The wire goes into the hole on this type of outlet. There should be a guide in the plastic on the back to indicate the length of the bare wire. Loosen the screw all of the way before inserting the wire to guarantee it ends up between the clamping jaws. Once it is clamped it should be impossible to pull the wire back out.

This could be the other type. Push the little button (test) and verify the Sperry lights go out. If the light turns on red it was designed to indicate tripped instead of ready to go. Push the big button and verify the red light goes out and the Sperry lights come back on.

That is a GFCI outlet. If the green light is not on either there is no feed to the outlet or it needs to be reset. Push the larger button.

The plug should not get hot. That is an indication of loose wires connected to the receptacle. It was probably wired using the stab holes in the receptacle instead of clamping the wires under the screw head. Since the receptacle is now permanently damaged by the heat, replace it with a quality receptacle and make sure the wires are firmly clamped. Do NOT use the stab holes if the receptacle has them. They work fine for table lamps but not for a 12 ampere continuous load.

If you go over a hole in the road or a sunken manhole cover that leaves one of the front wheels hovering in the air the regen braking will instantly go to zero. Because of the way a differential works the floating wheel will turn backwards. No force can be transmitted back to the motor which is what is providing the regen braking. The first time it happened to me it felt like the car was accelerating. Pressing harder on the brake pedal will engage the friction brakes which will resolve the issue. Nothing is wrong with the car.