Rust treatment? Indoor or outdoor during winter? Easy oil change?

[Mehcoib]

hi there!

 

I do not own a FFH for now, but I'm planing to buy one after July (2015 model?). Still, I already have questions for you since this will my first brand-new car and first hybrid... ok, let's start.

 

1. I've read that rust treatments can't be applied to hybrid cars for safety reasons. Is it true? (Don't think so since oil is not a conductor material...)

 

2. will I be able to change engine oil by myself? I mean, I've always done it with previous cars, but is it even possible with FFH?

 

3. I live in a pretty cold area. Cold temperatures are good to slow down rust, but usually bad for battery life... I have a (heated) indoor garage, should I use it to maximize battery life over years or should I care more about rust prevention?

 

4. what do you know about delivery delays during summer? (I'll take a SE + 502A package + start button) If I order in early July, when do you think it will be delivered?

 

thanks a lot for any information.

[Easy Rider]

 

1. I've read that rust treatments can't be applied to hybrid cars for safety reasons. Is it true? (Don't think so since oil is not a conductor material...)

 

2. will I be able to change engine oil by myself? I mean, I've always done it with previous cars, but is it even possible with FFH?

 

3. I live in a pretty cold area. Cold temperatures are good to slow down rust, but usually bad for battery life...

 

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

1) Rust treatments are generally a rip off to the consumer. Mostly they aren't needed.

But if you insist on wasting your money, the fact that it is a hybrid should make no difference.

 

2) The gas engine part of a hybrid isn't much different than any car with a small engine. Oil changes and other routine maintenance should be no problem.......but it is kind of tight getting to some stuff.

 

3) Cold is NOT bad for a battery's overall life; they actually age slower in the cold.

If it is really cold, the capacity might be somewhat less until it warms up.

As long as the car is driven regularly, you should not have to do anything special for either of the batteries.......down to about -20 F or so.

 

Fuel mileage does suffer a bit in cold weather. The gas engine runs a bit more often.

 

 

[inco]

I have to agree that with today's cars, rust protection, really isn't needed. I keep my cars for three or four years so I wouldn't even consider it.

 

However, if you live in a rural area where roads are not paved, or often drive over any old crushed stone roads, it does help reduce the noise that you hear with stones bouncing off the car. It might also add a little extra measure of protection - very little. Having it done might also enhance your resell value.

[hybridbear]

hi there!

 

I do not own a FFH for now, but I'm planing to buy one after July (2015 model?). Still, I already have questions for you since this will my first brand-new car and first hybrid... ok, let's start.

 

1. I've read that rust treatments can't be applied to hybrid cars for safety reasons. Is it true? (Don't think so since oil is not a conductor material...)

 

2. will I be able to change engine oil by myself? I mean, I've always done it with previous cars, but is it even possible with FFH?

 

3. I live in a pretty cold area. Cold temperatures are good to slow down rust, but usually bad for battery life... I have a (heated) indoor garage, should I use it to maximize battery life over years or should I care more about rust prevention?

 

4. what do you know about delivery delays during summer? (I'll take a SE + 502A package + start button) If I order in early July, when do you think it will be delivered?

 

thanks a lot for any information.

Instructions for oil changes and other maintenance items are posted in the Maintenance Section: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/forum/11-maintenance/

Oil changes are pretty easy on this car.

 

I would park indoors because the warmer start will save you money on gas. In the winter the gas engine has to run a lot more to provide heat to the cabin which really lowers fuel economy. Minnesota is probably farily similar in winter weather to Montreal and we see an average of about 40 MPG in the winter & 55 MPG in the summer.

 

When the battery is very cold your use of it will be limited. If the battery temp gets below 0C the car starts to reduce the kW flowing in our out. If you park outside then you'll see an impact of this during extended cold spells. If you park in the heated garage then you can avoid this. We park in a heated garage which is kept at 55F in the winter and found that it really helps with gas mileage & getting heat out of the vents in the car.

[Mehcoib]

Thank you for your replies. About rust protection I think I'll feel better with a yearly treatment, there's so much salt on roads in my area during winter... I owned a 2006 Mustang for 3 years and rust started to appear right before I sell it. That's only $100 a year (yeah I know, ~$1000 over a decade...).

 

Now I need to find the order guide for 2015 model, do you know where I can find it (if out)?

 

Last question: tire pressure monitoring => since we here use to have a set of summer tires/wheels and a set of winter tires/wheels, I guess I need to have those monitors in each set or I will see a warning on the dashboard, right?

[Sleddog]

Without a set of tire pressure monitors, you will have a constant warning. So each set of wheels will need them.

[murphy]

That raises the question, can the car monitor more than 4 tires? It might be necessary to reprogram the tire sensors every time the tires are changed.

[Sleddog]

Murphy I believe you are correct. The tool to do this is available on eBay for about 40 bucks US.

[Mehcoib]

That raises the question, can the car monitor more than 4 tires? It might be necessary to reprogram the tire sensors every time the tires are changed.

 

sh**, that's something I wasn't aware of... 4 TPMS sensors and a programing tool to add to the bill!

[Easy Rider]

OK, well it is your money and you are free to throw it away as you see fit.

 

Where exactly was the Mustang showing rust ??

 

The heavy frame members generally are not painted or otherwise protected........because it would take about 100 years of constant moisture exposure to rust them to the point of being a problem.

[corncobs]

That raises the question, can the car monitor more than 4 tires? It might be necessary to reprogram the tire sensors every time the tires are changed.

I think we talked about this in the wheels and tire topic but for me my winter wheels were teached to the car during mounting. When I swapped my winter wheels with the summer wheels I didn't have to reprogram again so the car knows all eight wheels / TPMS sensors.

[Mehcoib]

OK, well it is your money and you are free to throw it away as you see fit.

 

Where exactly was the Mustang showing rust ??

 

The heavy frame members generally are not painted or otherwise protected........because it would take about 100 years of constant moisture exposure to rust them to the point of being a problem.

 

on my '06 Mustang rust started under the hood, very close to the windshield. As far as I remember it was pretty common on this model.

[Mehcoib]

I think we talked about this in the wheels and tire topic but for me my winter wheels were teached to the car during mounting. When I swapped my winter wheels with the summer wheels I didn't have to reprogram again so the car knows all eight wheels / TPMS sensors.

 

that's good news!

[Easy Rider]

 

on my '06 Mustang rust started under the hood, very close to the windshield. As far as I remember it was pretty common on this model.

 

And that is another reason not to waste your money.

Places like that typically are NOT treated when an after-market "rust proofing" is done.

So having the Mustang treated once a year likely would have done nothing for that problem.

 

P.S. And anyone considering doing this should pay VERY close attention to their "guarantee".

Often it is limited to the amount you paid for the treatments.

If you paid $200 and 3 years later there was $1000 worth of rust damage, you get..........$200 (if you are lucky).

Edited May 11, 2014 by Easy Rider

[Mehcoib]

OK, well it is your money and you are free to throw it away as you see fit.

 

Where exactly was the Mustang showing rust ??

 

The heavy frame members generally are not painted or otherwise protected........because it would take about 100 years of constant moisture exposure to rust them to the point of being a problem.

 

it's not just about moisture... Where I used to live before, temperatures were not that cold but it was raining almost all year long => wet but no salt: my cars never had any rust issue.

But here in Canada there's salt on the road ~5 months a year. Much more corrosive.

 

If a buy a ~40,000$ brand-new car that I'd like to keep many years, I'm ready to spend $100/year for (a good) rust treatment, even if it's not that useful.

[kuzzi]

I'm not familiar with these rust treatments that are being offered, but I use phosphoric acid, let it dry or rinse thoroughly to neutralize, then cover with primer and paint.

 

Works best right after a flash rust or on bare metal.

 

As for protecting an already painted surface, I'm clueless.

[hybridbear]

The order guide has been posted. Check out the thread titled "MY2015 Production Information" or something like that.

[Texasota]

The order guide has been posted. Check out the thread titled "MY2015 Production Information" or something like that.

Waldo pointed out that it was actually a 2015 Marketing Guide (my apologizes). Nevertheless, it still has interesting information regarding the 2015 changes.

[Easy Rider]

 

I'm ready to spend $100/year for (a good) rust treatment, even if it's not that useful.

 

Well THERE you go !!! :)

 

I encourage you to ask what kind of system they use and research it a bit first.

Otherwise how will you KNOW if it is a "good" one or not ??

[BlueZips]

I sprayed some rubberized undercoating they sell at auto parts stores underneath my car. Also painted the exhaust and calipers with high heat paint. I did notice when changing my oil that the axles were rusting and some of the frame too. So i sprayed those too. Everything cost around 20$

[acdii]

The car is pretty much protected from rust. They dip the entire car in a vat of sealer, the car is charged positive, paint negative, so its attracted to every part of metal in the car. Rust starts in areas that chip, or unprotected, like some drive line parts, The areas that could use extra protection are where moisture can sit and eat away at the protection, like the bottoms of doors, and the rockers.

 

Be wary of undercoatings because they add weight and can trap moisture. Some treatments are nothing but a thin film of oil that needs to be reapplied, however, be even more careful in this as some of these "installments" drill holes in the doors and frames and those lead to rust.

 

Your best protection is to use something on the bottoms of rockers and other areas that can get chipped by rocks like a rubberized product, and wash it whenever possible to remove the salt deposits. Keeping the drains clean on the doors and rockers will prevent moisture build up.

 

I don't know if you noticed but Ziebart, which was a top company when it came to rust proofing no longer does it. They do exterior protection, but no longer do rust proofing. http://www.ziebart.com/

 

If you do get rust prevention(no such thing as proofing) applied it would have to be done by removing the door panels and plastic shields so they can spray the oil down towards the bottom seam. You risk having the panels cracking, and rattling. There is no guarantee that this will prevent rust either. Best prevention is keeping the salt off the car, and touchless car washes do a pretty good job getting it off.

[Mehcoib]

 

Well THERE you go !!! :)

 

I encourage you to ask what kind of system they use and research it a bit first.

Otherwise how will you KNOW if it is a "good" one or not ??

 

that's a good question... let's say the more time they spend, the better the treatment is...?

[Mehcoib]

The car is pretty much protected from rust. They dip the entire car in a vat of sealer, the car is charged positive, paint negative, so its attracted to every part of metal in the car. Rust starts in areas that chip, or unprotected, like some drive line parts, The areas that could use extra protection are where moisture can sit and eat away at the protection, like the bottoms of doors, and the rockers.

 

Be wary of undercoatings because they add weight and can trap moisture. Some treatments are nothing but a thin film of oil that needs to be reapplied, however, be even more careful in this as some of these "installments" drill holes in the doors and frames and those lead to rust.

 

Your best protection is to use something on the bottoms of rockers and other areas that can get chipped by rocks like a rubberized product, and wash it whenever possible to remove the salt deposits. Keeping the drains clean on the doors and rockers will prevent moisture build up.

 

I don't know if you noticed but Ziebart, which was a top company when it came to rust proofing no longer does it. They do exterior protection, but no longer do rust proofing. http://www.ziebart.com/

 

If you do get rust prevention(no such thing as proofing) applied it would have to be done by removing the door panels and plastic shields so they can spray the oil down towards the bottom seam. You risk having the panels cracking, and rattling. There is no guarantee that this will prevent rust either. Best prevention is keeping the salt off the car, and touchless car washes do a pretty good job getting it off.

 

all of this does make sense. But how do you prevent rust from appearing here? (Not my car!) This occurs very often.

Edited May 13, 2014 by Mehcoib

[corncobs]

 

all of this does make sense. But how do you prevent rust from appearing here? (Not my car!) This occurs very often.

Not that I have any special knowledge about rust prevention but I would honestly doubt that the treatment you are talking about will prevent this.

 

Manufacturing has definitely improved between the car in the picture and the Fusion you are driving now. This usually happened when two metal panel met without being sealed at contact point trapping moisture.

 

Like others have said it's your money and if it's makes you feel better go for it.

[Mehcoib]

Not that I have any special knowledge about rust prevention but I would honestly doubt that the treatment you are talking about will prevent this.

 

 

you're right, I don't know. Maybe I could start a poll on this topic (do/did you any kind of rust protection on your FFH?), especially for those who live in Canada and northern part of USA. Is there such a feature in this forum? I'm very new here.