Ric Report post Posted December 5, 2013 I have read a lot about doing a hard reset. I would like to give it a try if I knew how. Suggestions please. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrySql Report post Posted December 5, 2013 (edited) It's buried in a few places here but your Title makes it a good place to show the links from the member who invented it, DrewFM.(Take proper precautions when using tools around battery cables, safety first. Ok, that legal mumbo jumbo is out of the way.) http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/7336-after-the-pcm-software-updaterecalibration-observations-by-hybridbear/?p=65241 http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/7336-after-the-pcm-software-updaterecalibration-observations-by-hybridbear/?p=66109 The HVB disconnect handle in under a small door directly behind the drivers side rear seat, lower the seatback and it's there.The LVB is in the trunk on the driver's side. BTW, after the 100% SOC Hard Reset the part about driving the car using the very best hybrid driving techniques is important.You want to teach the car what to do in the first 100 miles or so. Edited December 5, 2013 by GrySql 1 hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JATR4 Report post Posted December 5, 2013 You should be able to do the reset by disconnecting the 12 v battery in the trunk for 5 minutes. I previously posted the following: "If what we are doing is erasing the KAM (Keep-Alive Memory), isn't that done by just disconnecting the 12-volt battery for 5 minutes? That is how it was done on the Honda Civic Hybrid. Found this in a 2012 Fusion/MKZ Hybrid Modifiers Guide: "Keep-Alive Memory (KAM) Power The electronic engine and/or transmission control modules and the HVTB BECM require lowbattery voltage (12 volts) to be supplied at all times to maintain the keep-alive memory (KAM).Keep this in mind when installing load disconnect switches or solenoids." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrySql Report post Posted December 5, 2013 I'm not the expert, I left that to DrewFM, if you read the second link I believe he explains why the HVB needs to be disconnected as well.I'm just happy that doing this procedure helped my car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JATR4 Report post Posted December 5, 2013 I'm not the expert, I left that to DrewFM, if you read the second link I believe he explains why the HVB needs to be disconnected as well.I'm just happy that doing this procedure helped my car.No expert here either. But I see no harm in trying the small battery disconnect first. Much simpler than the large battery. Here is a link to the manual--specifically page 2-12: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CD0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.digitalallyinc.com%2Fdownloads%2F2012_FusionHybrid_MKZHybrid_Guide.pdf&ei=6R6gUsLrOoa-kQfznICoBQ&usg=AFQjCNE-q_v7EK0FW5jwrCtySVX8CUlZrA&sig2=jRfuV2_NRne2tWbwOo4RLg&bvm=bv.57155469,d.eW0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riggo Report post Posted December 5, 2013 (edited) I have noticed when I have the battery at 3/4 full charge and am going uphill where the ICE is on (and there is no HVB assist), my battery won't charge. It shows the down arrow, even when the ICE is fully on. Could this be a situation where a hard reset would help get the battery to a full charge? I am not one of the ones that gets under 40mpg lifetime (i'm at 42.1 mpg lifetime) but I also don't seem to get long stretches of HVB running on the highway like others on here do either. Also, I should note that I can get the battery to almost a full charge when going down a long hill using regenerative braking. Edited December 5, 2013 by Riggo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybridbear Report post Posted December 5, 2013 I have noticed when I have the battery at 3/4 full charge and am going uphill where the ICE is on (and there is no HVB assist), my battery won't charge. It shows the down arrow, even when the ICE is fully on. Could this be a situation where a hard reset would help get the battery to a full charge? I am not one of the ones that gets under 40mpg lifetime (i'm at 42.1 mpg lifetime) but I also don't seem to get long stretches of HVB running on the highway like others on here do either. Also, I should note that I can get the battery to almost a full charge when going down a long hill using regenerative braking. This is normal. When the battery reaches about 60% of its useable SOC the ICE stops charging the HVB. That leaves you with 40% to fill going down a mountain, etc even if your battery looks full. This is why I keep the useable SOC on my ScanGauge so that I can control when I accelerate using ICE and when I accelerate in EV based on charge level. Check out this thread for more data. 1 Riggo reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tr7driver Report post Posted February 18, 2014 So is removing the service disconnect plug for 10 minutes, and simultaneously disconnecting the 12 volt battery in the trunk for 10 min sufficient to do a hard reset? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted February 18, 2014 Should be. That is usually long enough for any capacitors in the system to discharge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tr7driver Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Thanks. My car had come to the dealer I bought it from on a trade with a dealer near Toledo, and it had almost 400 miles on it, so I'm interested in seeing if this will impact the MPG. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrySql Report post Posted February 19, 2014 This subject of the "car learning how we drive” and what the Hard Reset does keeps coming up.I've been reading the first link here, (Preliminary 2013 MY OBD System Operation Summary for Plug In and Hybrid Electric Vehicles), it has important info.The particular info that interests me currently is found on page 176 and it discusses the Exponentially Weighted Moving Averaging and it’s Step Change Logic.I see this as learning the values of the different programs of the car, it takes up to six drive cycles to get this EWMA to a working average.A Hard Reset would cause the KAM and other factors to be deleted and a new EWMA to be created.If it found the SOC at 100% and all the other weighed factors at optimal that would be the new starting position in establishing the next EWMA. Could this be the vehicle ‘learning curve’ we hear about? 3 corncobs, acdii and hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Sounds feasible. They all start with a baseline image, then as information is accumulated, its compared to the baseline, and new parameters based on some algorithm is performed and thats how I see the computer doing its thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tr7driver Report post Posted February 24, 2014 I did a hard reset Saturday with 1200 miles on the car. It had over 300 on it when it was delivered, so I figured I'd see if this helped. The avg MPG was at 33.0, but given the cold temps we have had since we bought the car, I think a lot of the issue was weather related. After the rest, I put about 40 miles on the car Saturday with the temp in the low 40's and actively hypermiling got 54 mpg. I got 39.9 MPG on the 8 mile drive into work this morning with temp at 17F, so I think it definitely has improved so far. 3 corncobs, acdii and hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corncobs Report post Posted February 24, 2014 Keep hypermiling it will pay off once the computers have learned what this/your car is capable of. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrySql Report post Posted February 25, 2014 If I am reading the Exponentially Weighted Moving Averaging and it’s Step Change Logic correctly that learning never stops. It just slows down as the mileage piles on and any significant driving or equipment change will slowly move the learned data to a new point on the curve.For example, if you first drove your car with no regard to mpg's the car will carry that forward and make the components operate that way.As time passes and you become a good hypermiler the EWMA will slowly change the driving dynamics and you'll start to gain mpg's on the Lifetime Average MPG counter.If you drove poorly at first and want to see a dramatic change, a 100% SOC Hard Reset combined with good hypermiling techniques should show a faster improvement in your overall mpg's. "Should, can, may" are all in there because some of these cars will not get real high mpg's no matter what we try, they have something wrong in the component interactions.After the PCM update my car dropped about 10mpg's, into the high 20's and low 30 mpg's, it was a shock. I performed a 100% SOC Hard Reset and my Lifetime Average sits at 40.8 at present. My early '13 can do very well in the right environment but highway travel is not it's best mpg zone.My 2¢... 2 acdii and corncobs reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybridbear Report post Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) If I am reading the Exponentially Weighted Moving Averaging and it’s Step Change Logic correctly that learning never stops. It just slows down as the mileage piles on and any significant driving or equipment change will slowly move the learned data to a new point on the curve.For example, if you first drove your car with no regard to mpg's the car will carry that forward and make the components operate that way.As time passes and you become a good hypermiler the EWMA will slowly change the driving dynamics and you'll start to gain mpg's on the Lifetime Average MPG counter.If you drove poorly at first and want to see a dramatic change, a 100% SOC Hard Reset combined with good hypermiling techniques should show a faster improvement in your overall mpg's. "Should, can, may" are all in there because some of these cars will not get real high mpg's no matter what we try, they have something wrong in the component interactions.After the PCM update my car dropped about 10mpg's, into the high 20's and low 30 mpg's, it was a shock. I performed a 100% SOC Hard Reset and my Lifetime Average sits at 40.8 at present. My early '13 can do very well in the right environment but highway travel is not it's best mpg zone.My 2¢...I think I should do a hard reset on our white FFH. It had just over 200 miles on the odometer when we bought it with a Lifetime MPG of 29.x...perhaps a Hard Reset will help it do better. Edited February 25, 2014 by hybridbear Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
murphy Report post Posted February 25, 2014 I think I should do a hard reset on our white FFH. It had just over 200 MPG on the odometer when we bought it with a Lifetime MPG of 29.x...perhaps a Hard Reset will help it do better.Your odometer knows how to measure miles per gallon? :doh: 1 corncobs reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybridbear Report post Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Your odometer knows how to measure miles per gallon? :doh:Hahahaha great catch! I'm so used to typing MPG everywhere that I often type it instead of MPH, and now I typed it instead of miles lol :doh: :confused: Edited February 25, 2014 by hybridbear Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corncobs Report post Posted February 25, 2014 Your odometer knows how to measure miles per gallon? :doh:I want this car 200 MPG awesome. ;) 1 hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrySql Report post Posted February 25, 2014 I think I should do a hard reset on our white FFH. It had just over 200 miles on the odometer when we bought it with a Lifetime MPG of 29.x...perhaps a Hard Reset will help it do better.It's worth a try. Don't forget to have your SOC at 100% when you do it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ptek Report post Posted February 26, 2014 Just thinking out loud - I wonder if the season of the year that a hard reset (or initial learning) is done makes a difference. If the PCM is learning in cold weather when MPGs are down, does it store moving averages that are different than what would have been stored if the hard reset and learning were done in the warmer months? If so, it may make sense to do a hard reset in the spring in order to clear non-optimal moving averages learned during cold weather driving. 1 hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybridbear Report post Posted February 26, 2014 Just thinking out loud - I wonder if the season of the year that a hard reset (or initial learning) is done makes a difference. If the PCM is learning in cold weather when MPGs are down, does it store moving averages that are different than what would have been stored if the hard reset and learning were done in the warmer months? If so, it may make sense to do a hard reset in the spring in order to clear non-optimal moving averages learned during cold weather driving. Great idea! I will wait until spring to do a hard reset. Once temps are above 50F here in Minneapolis it will quickly become clear if this car gets less MPGs than its predecessor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted February 28, 2014 On the nose guys. Grysql, that is how they function, which is why it takes so long for the average to creep up when it is down so low after 200 miles. Start with a clean table and drive efficiently and it will go high from the start, and if after 200 miles or so you romp it and bring it down, you will see it taking twice as long to get back up to where it was. Wait until the summer blend is out before doing the reset, this benzine they are selling now is horrible for MPG no matter how good you drive. It will be better since it takes sevearl tanks of the summer stuff before the computers readjust everything, but if you run one tank through, then do a hard reset, then you have the better gas to train it with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riggo Report post Posted February 28, 2014 So if I were to get a new car in March, and the weather is cold, I'm probably going to get bad mileage forever unless I do a hard reset in the spring? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermans Report post Posted February 28, 2014 No you can reset your mileage without doing a "hard" reset. I reset mine in the Spring and Winter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites