2013 Spark plug change @ 14,000 miles

[GrySql]

Just my curiosity, I wanted to see what my spark plugs looked like at 14,000 miles.

 

The '13's engine cover and air intake bolts needed a 7mm socket. The COP bolts were 8mm.

I used a magnetized 5/8" spark plug socket w/ a 8" extension for the deep seated SP's.

Leave the air filter in place.

The cover is held on with 2-7mm bolts, an electrical plug, a push-in zip-tie mount, the air intake hose (2 SS clamps) with 2-7mm air intake bolts and 4 rubber anti-vibration rubber mounts. Once all is loosened, released or removed, an easy tug upward releases the grip on the rubber anti-vibration mounts and the whole engine cover comes off.

Note: I left the electrical plug connected and just flipped the engine cover over (upside down) on to the Traction Motor while I changed plugs.

 

As mentioned in another thread, once the cover is off the spark plugs are easy to access, remove the 8mm COP bolts, pull the COP Boot off, remove the plug and replace with new.

The spark plugs I used were Motorcraft SP531, exactly what is in the car.

I used nickel based anti-seize on the new spark plug threads because of the Aluminum block.

There was plenty of dielectric grease inside the COP Boot so I didn't add any additional.

 

My conclusion was: why bother? My spark plugs looked almost new, very little soot except on the rim.

I will have to assume my car is running normal.

I think mine are the way they should be, not sooty like other members have shown here.

I put the new ones in anyway, heck, I already did all that work to look at them. I'll save the the old SP's, for some obscure reason.

 

With the proper tools the whole job took less than 1 hour, once I had identified the removal procedure.

(That included the ride up and down my street to see if everything worked.)

 

This project was for my interest only and I take no legal responsibility if you try this. Do at your own risk.

 

The old spark plugs:

 

Engine cover guide.

Edited September 27, 2013 by GrySql

[acdii]

Looks like your center electrode is cleaner at 14K than mine were at 2500 miles.

 

[GrySql]

Yes, I remember those pictures and a couple other pictures posted by members on the Forum that have been making me wonder if my FFH had a similar problem.

I am greatly relieved that mine are so clean.

The minimal cost and fairly easy procedure was worth the effort, I can quit worrying about it now.

One more item checked off the list.

[hybridbear]

I pinned the topic since it explains how to get to them

[terryb]

I'm at 10,800 and was thinking of replacing mine as a "checklist item". When I looked at around 5000, I saw what you had i.e. just cruddy base rims. So, I guess I'll save the $28 and hour time. I'm still running right at 40.x on the tank at 130 miles in since the hard reset as compared to the 35mpg prior so I have high hopes for after I get pas the 300 miles training interval. Wish me luck.

[GrySql]

I'm at 10,800 and was thinking of replacing mine as a "checklist item". When I looked at around 5000, I saw what you had i.e. just cruddy base rims. So, I guess I'll save the $28 and hour time. I'm still running right at 40.x on the tank at 130 miles in since the hard reset as compared to the 35mpg prior so I have high hopes for after I get pas the 300 miles training interval. Wish me luck.

Boy, I do wish you lots of luck!

I know how I've felt over the last months and this has been rewarding.

[lolder]

In the 2010 maintenance section there is no reccomendation to change the plugs through the 150,000 mile service interval. There is a reccomendation to change them at 60,000 for special service. You really don't need to change plugs anymore unless you get a miss warning. The system senses even a slightly weak power stroke in any cylinder. You don't need to change the ignition harnesses either as they are not high voltage. All you need to do is change the oil and filter and check the bearings, axles and brake pucks when you rotate the tires. The brakes should never wear out. If nothing is leaking, noisy or smelly and there are no messages, you're good.

There is no:

 

Alternator

 

Belt ( 2013 + )

 

torgue converter fluid to change

 

brake wear ( 100,000 + miles )

 

tuneups required ( a rip-off in all modern cars )

Edited September 28, 2013 by lolder

[GrySql]

I quite agree that the spark plugs in these cars don't need changing except at the service intervals, thank you for the good info.

In my car's case, i.e., the sooty tailpipe at first, under achieving mpg's and other members sooty spark plugs had me chasing ghosts.

Eliminating possible trouble spots was my aim and now that I have seen the condition of the plugs my mind is at ease about that particular area of concern.

 

I certainly don't recommend anyone doing what I did if their car is acting in a more or less normal fashion.

As this post got 'pinned' I decided to add the engine cover guide picture to give a more complete explanation.

[acdii]

So, what are the odds of getting the only 4 bad spark plugs out of all the ones installed?

 

Man if only I had those odds playing the lottery!!! LOL

[tbranca]

I'm at 22000 and min

e looked like crap.

[acdii]

The part that matters is the center electrode and the ground electrode. The center insulator is clean too. If the center electrode has crud on it, then you have bad plugs.

[jpohlman]

I quite agree that the spark plugs in these cars don't need changing except at the service intervals, thank you for the good info.

In my car's case, i.e., the sooty tailpipe at first, under achieving mpg's and other members sooty spark plugs had me chasing ghosts.

Eliminating possible trouble spots was my aim and now that I have seen the condition of the plugs my mind is at ease about that particular area of concern.

 

I certainly don't recommend anyone doing what I did if their car is acting in a more or less normal fashion.

As this post got 'pinned' I decided to add the engine cover guide picture to give a more complete explanation.

Just a small note here that if you read the owner's manual definition of severe/specail service you'll find that quite a few daily drivers fall into the category.

I'n my wife's case it's because of how short her daily commute is, the engine never gets a chance to really completely warm up.

[GrySql]

Just a small note here that if you read the owner's manual definition of severe/specail service you'll find that quite a few daily drivers fall into the category.

I'n my wife's case it's because of how short her daily commute is, the engine never gets a chance to really completely warm up.

Now that I know the early 2013 FFH's were built with spark plugs that are no longer recommended by Ford parts departments, changing them out may be a good idea anyway.

http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/10369-sp-531-vs-sp-530-spark-plugs/?p=99228

Edited October 21, 2015 by GrySql