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Eddie Sessum

ICE Break-in period.

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So I know to expect 3000-5000miles for the battery to give the best it can. But as far as the ICE, how many miles should it finish getting all the rings and seals set into place and loosen up a little? This little bastard needs some KY or shit it seems like because it sucks fuel like theres no tomorow when its on. (My guess is its on par with light acceleration in my old f250 diesel).

 

 

My dads tercel gets 24mpg on the highway in 3rd gear at 5000rpm. How can our engine pull more than a old engine at 5k rpm unless its just that tight?

 

I see people with around the same milage as me doing so much better than my mpg.. I cant even get 40mpg at 69mph on the highway (ac fan on low, defroster off). Before or after the update.

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There is essentially no break-in period for the ICE or HVB in hybrids. The owners manual says drive normally at varying speeds. The hybrid system varies the ICE rpm all the time anyway except on the most level roads so you don't even have to worry about that. The break-in period is 99% the driver. Operate the HVAC in Auto. There is practically no savings by running the fan on low. The temperature difference between inside and outside is the controlling factor.

The ICE is always loaded to about twice the normal load when EV mode is cycling on and off because the ICE is driving the car and recharging the HVB when it is running.

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I dont mean a break-in period as per say the engine being properly broken in to last. I just mean to get the best fuel economy. I know my old diesel truck was around 1500miles before all the rings and everything got settled and it got its best mpg. Every engine has a period where its tighter and with time it gets a little looser and easier to do its job.

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I don't subscribe to the break in theory. Right out of the box with 25 miles on the car I got 45.4 mpg. I've gotten great mileage since.

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This is a great question. I too am wondering what the best practice would be. For me I have almost 2000 miles on my car and I would say that it has very rarely been over 2000RPM.... (1st thing I did to put tachometer on MY View.)

 

Anyways, some companies say baby it the first 500 and then change the oil.... others say drive it crazy 5000 RPM for the first miles to get the motor broke in properly for it's 200,000 mile lifetime......

 

So what do others recommend.... what is our proper break in period? Or not?

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I dont mean a break-in period as per say the engine being properly broken in to last. I just mean to get the best fuel economy. I know my old diesel truck was around 1500miles before all the rings and everything got settled and it got its best mpg. Every engine has a period where its tighter and with time it gets a little looser and easier to do its job.

Not any more. I measured a 1 mpg improvement in my 2010 FFH after several oil changes and that is within my experimental testing error. Today's manufacturing precision and lubricant's require no ring seating and the like. What occurs is unnoticeable. There is no initial oil consumption that occured in decades past. You can drive it like you stole it from day one. Meeting hybrid EPA mileage numbers in Ford's usually requires a driving attitude change.

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Not any more. I measured a 1 mpg improvement in my 2010 FFH after several oil changes and that is within my experimental testing error. Today's manufacturing precision and lubricant's require no ring seating and the like. What occurs is unnoticeable. There is no initial oil consumption that occured in decades past. You can drive it like you stole it from day one. Meeting hybrid EPA mileage numbers in Ford's usually requires a driving attitude change.

 

What makes the wild difference in milage to the different cars than? I found on another forum someone who has basicly the same car as me (dont know what options may be different but the same prettymuch)

 

Going over a very long bridge here called the causeway thats 24miles. If i reset once im upto speed. I get around 37.5ish. Eco cruise turned on without traffic 69mph. Other person. Basicly the same situation but on a hot day (today was decent maybe 80* tops) The other car gets 41.3mpg.

 

Thats another MKZ too, havent come across anyone with a FFH around on any forums.

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What about tire break in? As the tires wear down doesn't their rolling resistance decrease? Could that be a factor?

 

Not any more. I measured a 1 mpg improvement in my 2010 FFH after several oil changes and that is within my experimental testing error. Today's manufacturing precision and lubricant's require no ring seating and the like. What occurs is unnoticeable. There is no initial oil consumption that occured in decades past. You can drive it like you stole it from day one. Meeting hybrid EPA mileage numbers in Ford's usually requires a driving attitude change.

Ford has published that the FFH should see a few MPG improvement after break in, this was stated by Raj Nair early on after the cars were released.

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Never thought about the tire rolling resistance. I wouldnt think it to make that much of a difference tho.

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What makes the wild difference in milage to the different cars than? I found on another forum someone who has basicly the same car as me (dont know what options may be different but the same prettymuch)

 

Going over a very long bridge here called the causeway thats 24miles. If i reset once im upto speed. I get around 37.5ish. Eco cruise turned on without traffic 69mph. Other person. Basicly the same situation but on a hot day (today was decent maybe 80* tops) The other car gets 41.3mpg.

 

Thats another MKZ too, havent come across anyone with a FFH around on any forums.

Your initial HVB SOC could be a contributing factor to the difference..Tire pressures....Wind.....Any extra weight in the car?? on the exact same trip to work ...somedays i get 36....somedays 43.... i have little to no traffice to worry about..its just the battery, wind and temp differences... Good luck!

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I think I read this before but what is SOC? I was thinking starting operating charge, which once reseting the trip at speed I dont see that making a difference there over a 25mile run.

 

I do understand the AC usage and all makes a difference day to day but this was within 5-10min of eachother to see this difference. It was a crazy hot day today and ill agree i saw the climate power usage cranked all the way across the screen. I couldnt expect alot on a day like this.

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What makes the wild difference in milage to the different cars than? I found on another forum someone who has basicly the same car as me (dont know what options may be different but the same prettymuch)

 

Going over a very long bridge here called the causeway thats 24miles. If i reset once im upto speed. I get around 37.5ish. Eco cruise turned on without traffic 69mph. Other person. Basicly the same situation but on a hot day (today was decent maybe 80* tops) The other car gets 41.3mpg.

 

Thats another MKZ too, havent come across anyone with a FFH around on any forums.

Mpg increases 2.0 mpg for every 10º F. increase in temperature. It decreases 6.0 mpg for every 10 mph increase in speed. It decreases 3.0 mpg for each 10 mph headwind. The HVB SOC has a big effect on short stretches. The MKZ also is rated a few mpg lower. The difference between 37.5 and 41.4 mpg is an extremely small amount of fuel. Don't worry.

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Figured out what Alot of my mpg issues are.. The engine warming up all the time.. It cools off in 90* weather in like 20min

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I've personally found I can get my best MPG when outside temperature is around 75-80 degrees. Much warmer than that and I have to start using AC.l

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