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ptjones

3MPG gain with Grill Covers

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Grill covers are old school ways to increase FE in winter, started way back with the first Gen Prius, and does help. When and if I get a FFH that actually runs correctly, then I plan to spend the time to sit on a cold cement floor and make a cover, but for now just biding my time until the next check engine light comes on. If they dont fix it by the next visit, one more time and its LL time. I am an impatient person and this BS is driving me up the wall.

 

A grill cover improves the effectiveness of the shutters since they dont fully cover the radiator. Just remember to take it off in the spring.

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I have separate grill cover for summer and it is good to have a ScanGaugeII although I'm trying to come u[p with cheap solution. My View has a temperature gauge that you can use with empower screen.

 

I was wondering if Ford had an explanation for the plugs fouling? They should have been able to see if the problem was oil or gas. Seems like you could go to hotter plug.

If you notice, the center insulator is white, so not a plug problem, The electrode itself is very tiny, so fouling can quickly cover the tip itself and if you look close enough, granted the pic is not very clear, you can see it starting to foul at the base of the electrode. So far Ford has not even bothered with this. Just wait and see.

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Nixed the cold as an issue, I drove it in 78* weather and had poor MPG. Took a trip to Florida in it and only saw 38.8 max doing 60 MPH in the interstate.

 

I also use a scan gauge on the car and it looks like it finished calibrating to the car. The MPG it shows is at least 2 MPG lower than what the car reports on the dash and is more in tune with actual MPG based on fuel used over miles driven. I have also been documenting fills, actual vs what the car reports. Tonight it showed 8.99, actual was 9.370. Thinking of logging each trip that is more than a few miles, SG vs Dash.

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Excellent point ! My 2010 FFH runs at 93º C. or 200º F. A cold running engine would burn a lot more fuel and might not show a DTC. My temperature gauge is always exactly in the middle.

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At this point, not going to do anything that interferes with the normal operation of the car. If the car cant get decent MPG in warm weather, blocking it in cold wont make much difference. I can see it helping out my 10, especially this past week since its been in the single digits, except we aren't driving that car, it needs new tires, and already spent $429 on it to replace a bearing that got busted when I slid on ice and slammed into a curb, so tires will have to wait until hopefully next month, provided our taxes havent taken away too much more.

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I changed the display to show *fWT and the peak was 193*, and that was with the heater off doing 50 MPH. Majority of the time it was hovering around 180* with the heater on. I called the service manager to let him know that it seems to be running cold, which may be the reason for the soot. When I was sitting waiting for my wife, it never went above 157* at idle, and the heater was on floor low fan speed, barely doing anything to warm the cabin. Now here is something else I noticed, the trip in this morning, 3* tops, I got 34.1MPG, and the trip home, temps at 20*, 34.7 MPG, so a .6 MPG difference, which tells me nothing really. It also took a long time before temps got up to 170*, and will check in the morning how quickly the temp rises since its 55 MPH when I leave, and 25-35 on the return trip.

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The thermometer icon on the 2010 turns green at about 140º F coolant temp. which only takes about three minutes at 70º F. outside temp. The heater fan doesn't start blowing in auto until somewhat below that. If you're running 150-190 you'd not notice any cabin temperature problem but that's definitely too cool for the ICE to run.

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This morning it peaked at 181*, and on average was around 160*. In this weather, it makes sense, but not when it was 78*. It may just be exacerbating the real issue, whatever it is.

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Whatever covers it has to be able to pass the collision avoidance and adaptive cruise signals through, or the car goes nuts.

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Its in the lower grill portion, or I should say, behind it. The parking sensors are in the bumper, so they wont be blocked, but the radar unit will be.

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