Oil & Oil Change Frequency

[iceman3161]

I have been using Mobil 1 - 1000 Conventional Oil in my 2010 Ford Fusion. I cut the oil change interval in half. Do you think I am correct in doing this?

[drolds1]

I have been using Mobil 1 - 1000 Conventional Oil in my 2010 Ford Fusion. I cut the oil change interval in half. Do you think I am correct in doing this?

 

This isn't a matter of opinion. It's simple. As long as you adhere to the oil change interval in your factory maintenance guide, then it's OK. If not, then you are potentially risking voiding the warranty on your engine. The type of oil is irrelevant as long as it meets or exceeds Ford specs.

[tsetse51]

I have been using Mobil 1 - 1000 Conventional Oil in my 2010 Ford Fusion. I cut the oil change interval in half. Do you think I am correct in doing this?

 

I think you're on the right track. The main advantage of synthetic oils is that they can tolerate much more heat than petroleum oils. Because of the HUGE premium on price, oil manufacturers advocate a much longer change interval with synthetics. It's true that the synthetics don't "break down" (change viscosity) as quickly as petro oils, but that's not the only consideration. Oil in an IC engine gets DIRTY. And the contaminants contribute to wear and corrosion of the engine internals.

 

IMO, 7500-mile (or longer) oil change intervals are ridiculous. Good petroleum oils are exponentially better now than they were years ago. Change the oil and filter at 3000-3500 miles, and keep your engine in excellent condition for a long, long time.

 

As an additional consideration, unless you live where it's very, very cold for most of the year, forget about the 0W-20 or 5W-20 viscosity ratings, as well. Those light oils are specified by manufacturers in order to gain a small increase in their fuel-economy ratings. It does require power to make oil pressure, but the minute increase in fuel economy is not worth using such a thin oil in most engines. Engine operating temperatures are pretty high, and engines are more highly stressed in modern automobiles than ever before. Light-viscosity oils get to about the consistency of lighter fluid when everything's up to temperature. Unless the ambient temperature is going to be around zero, Fahrenheit or lower, for some significant period of time, there's nothing wrong with using an oil rated 15W-40.

 

Just the opinions and experience of an old "tech" guy.

[rfruth]

there is plenty wrong with 15w-40, the tolerances in newer engines is tight, 40 weight is way too thick for proper lubrication, use what the manual calls for !

[Grey]

Our engines are designed (flow, lubrication,cooling, etc. ) for an oil at approximately 9 cSt at operating temperature (212 degrees f.) Stick with a 5w20 unless you live in the far North and seldom get above freezing and a 0w20 would be called for.

 

NO WAY would a 15w40 oil be acceptable,

[Oldguy16]

I'm no expert in oil in the least bit, but Ford does do quite a bit of testing with their engines for durability, my guess is that they would recommend a certain oil for a reason. I do the recommended oil, every 3k, I don't think you can go wrong doing that.

[akirby]

I'm no expert in oil in the least bit, but Ford does do quite a bit of testing with their engines for durability, my guess is that they would recommend a certain oil for a reason. I do the recommended oil, every 3k, I don't think you can go wrong doing that.

 

Can't go wrong by the car doing that but you're certainly wasting a lot of oil.

[IDONTOWNAFORD]

Can't go wrong by the car doing that but you're certainly wasting a lot of oil.

 

How is one wasting oil by adhering to the owners' manual? I hope you realize the difference to make synthetic oil, opposed to non-synthetic oil, actually wastes more oil that the oil needed to make non-synthetic oil. Are you the engineer FORD hired to determine the oil viscosity and change interval for the 3.0L V6? If not, then you have no right to claim such matters. Or are you the other extreme; someone who pours one quart of mobil 1 extended performance for 15,000 miles like it says on the bottle, expects it to last, then complain that your head gasket is blowing and your cylinders are bored out because of all the friction. Let's not waste oil! Save the trees!

[akirby]

How is one wasting oil by adhering to the owners' manual? I hope you realize the difference to make synthetic oil, opposed to non-synthetic oil, actually wastes more oil that the oil needed to make non-synthetic oil. Are you the engineer FORD hired to determine the oil viscosity and change interval for the 3.0L V6? If not, then you have no right to claim such matters. Or are you the other extreme; someone who pours one quart of mobil 1 extended performance for 15,000 miles like it says on the bottle, expects it to last, then complain that your head gasket is blowing and your cylinders are bored out because of all the friction. Let's not waste oil! Save the trees!

 

The owner's manual recommends between 5K and 10K depending on the model and year. Oldguy16 says he changes it every 3K which is almost twice as often as Ford recommends.

 

For the record, I follow the owner's manual and change mine every 5K (2006 SEL V6).

 

So instead of attacking why don't you try reading and comprehending the post next time.

[Oldguy16]

I talked to my mechanic about it. They use castrol gtx. He told me you can probably do every 5k miles but he said that's because Ford recommends a synthetic blend, he did say of course it's going to be a bit more expensive but you can't go wrong with every 3k miles on conventional oil. So I just put the type Ford recommends and every 3k miles. I'm sure every 5k is fine, and if you always do Mobil 1 synthetic, you can do every 10k, but I feel sticking to the basics prevents the least problems.

[P00r]

The owner's manual recommends between 5K and 10K depending on the model and year. Oldguy16 says he changes it every 3K which is almost twice as often as Ford recommends.

 

For the record, I follow the owner's manual and change mine every 5K (2006 SEL V6).

 

So instead of attacking why don't you try reading and comprehending the post next time.

 

 

I live in Canada and noticed something funny (not so funny in fact...), in the maintenance guide with imperial unit they recomend 5000 milles, and in the canadian one they recomend 5000 kilometer, 5000 milles is 8000 Km.. so they seem to be asking canadian customer to change oil more often! and this apply to the whole maintenance schedule!

 

back on topic, I use full synth and change between 5000 and 7000 km usually... I noticed the car run smoother on synth

Edited October 28, 2010 by P00r

[fus10]

I use Pennzoil platinum or ultra by Pennzoil. I drive a lot of miles. 25,000 sine Jan of this year so far.

I go every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Pennzoil's oil looks good when changed at that interval. I love that oil.

 

People change oil every 3k because that is what was burned into our brains back in the day. And that is how all the quick lube make their money.

Engines are built much much better now.

 

Hell BMW has their intervals set at 15K or 12 months. There are BMW's that are well over 130k that have run that set up from day one. No problems! They have been at that interval since 2001. I should know I work at a BMW center. It took me awhile to believe it myself.

 

As for the poster in Canada. Ford has a lower oil change interval up there in part due to the extreme weather changes possibly.

Edited October 30, 2010 by fus10

[awdpath]

I live in Canada and noticed something funny (not so funny in fact...), in the maintenance guide with imperial unit they recomend 5000 milles, and in the canadian one they recomend 5000 kilometer, 5000 milles is 8000 Km.. so they seem to be asking canadian customer to change oil more often! and this apply to the whole maintenance schedule!

 

back on topic, I use full synth and change between 5000 and 7000 km usually... I noticed the car run smoother on synth

 

According to the Customer Information Guide (Warranty and Maintenance, 7F1J-19G218-AB August 2006) :

 

5000km/3 months interval is for " Special Operating Conditions"

10,000km/6 months interval is for 'normal', 'typical', 'everyday driving' conditions

 

According to the Ford Fusion Owner's Guide 2007 (7E5J-19A321-AB Sept 2006) :

 

Use of synthetic or synthetic blend oil is not mandatory. Engine oil need only meet the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A and the API Certification mark.

Edited October 31, 2010 by awdpath

[Grey]

I question that you can find a non-synthetic or synthetic blend that will "meet the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A".

 

Motorcraft 5W20 will meet the spec.every time- every test. Some others will only meet the spec in one test out of 10. (But when you ask for test results, that is the one they will show!)

[Oldguy16]

I question that you can find a non-synthetic or synthetic blend that will "meet the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A".

 

Motorcraft 5W20 will meet the spec.every time- every test. Some others will only meet the spec in one test out of 10. (But when you ask for test results, that is the one they will show!)

I'm no expert in the least but, but a lot if times I find motorcraft is just a way for Ford to make tons of money on cheap products. For instance when looking at brakes for my explorer, i found a set of aftermarket brakes for way less money, that were far superior to the motorcraft ones. However I don't use motorcraft oil because the mechanic I go to uses either castrol gtx conventional, or mobil 1 synthetic. But I do have to agree with you, I'm pretty sure if you use motorcraft oil, and just go by the owner's manual, you really cannot go wrong in any way.

[Grey]

Motorcraft has several series of brake pads - good to superior (so their dealers and independent installers can compete with the corner brake shop specials.)

 

Ford designs quality Motorcraft parts for production in their new vehicles just like the Ford branded parts. They are not cheap copycat parts like many found in the aftermarket. To compare the expense of designing, testing, tooling and distributing the highest quality parts around the world to a "reverse engineering" company that makes compromised close copies is absurd. Ford makes a fair profit on the service parts. But the final price also has the handling cost and profit for the distributors, jobbers and dealers in the distribution chain and that price you see as a consumer is not controlled by Ford.

 

I provide this clarification since you took a pretty big shot at Ford and I am an expert of sorts.

[awdpath]

Motorcraft has several series of brake pads - good to superior (so their dealers and independent installers can compete with the corner brake shop specials.)

 

Ford designs quality Motorcraft parts for production in their new vehicles just like the Ford branded parts. They are not cheap copycat parts like many found in the aftermarket. To compare the expense of designing, testing, tooling and distributing the highest quality parts around the world to a "reverse engineering" company that makes compromised close copies is absurd. Ford makes a fair profit on the service parts. But the final price also has the handling cost and profit for the distributors, jobbers and dealers in the distribution chain and that price you see as a consumer is not controlled by Ford.

 

I provide this clarification since you took a pretty big shot at Ford and I am an expert of sorts.

 

After all the expenses, that's why some of the OEM parts may be compromised!? The last 'reverse engineered' part I bought was made in Mexico (I was surprised it was not from China). Same place of origin as the OEM part, a part that is under constant stress when in use but the OEM decision maker decided that plastic is to be used to make this part. And yes, the 'reverse engineered' part is made of metal and priced at one-third the OEM part.

[Oldguy16]

My intent was not to start any arguments at all. I feel that many times aftermarket is the way to go. Sometimes it isn't. Vital parts for your car need to be OEM and most likely will end up needing to be a motorcraft part, but as far as this topic goes, I don't believe there is anything wrong with using Castrol gtx, or Mobil 1. But let's say you need an air filter. You can buy the motorcraft one, or a k&n replacement, which is not a performance booster, it's simply a good quality replacement. I personally believe that a k&n filter is a much higher quality filter than a motorcraft one. Please don't take this the wrong way, I'm not trying to start arguments, I'm simply stating my opinion.

[Grey]

Parts can be designed to exceed the requirements for the application - I agree!

 

In your example, a K&N non-performance air filter for a F-150 lists for $59 and can be found for $40. the Motorcraft lists for $19 and can be bought for $16 or less.

 

When cost of ownership matters, the Motorcraft factory replacement filter meets Ford's specifications for filtering, air flow and replacement interval. Unless you plan to more than double your replacement cycle, the Motorcraft filter represents the superior value. To be fair, Wix, Fram, Purolator, etc. make air filters that would sell in the $16 range and may (or may not) meet the Ford specifications. What I like about Motorcraft products is that they meet the specifications every part, every time.

[Oldguy16]

Parts can be designed to exceed the requirements for the application - I agree!

 

In your example, a K&N non-performance air filter for a F-150 lists for $59 and can be found for $40. the Motorcraft lists for $19 and can be bought for $16 or less.

 

When cost of ownership matters, the Motorcraft factory replacement filter meets Ford's specifications for filtering, air flow and replacement interval. Unless you plan to more than double your replacement cycle, the Motorcraft filter represents the superior value. To be fair, Wix, Fram, Purolator, etc. make air filters that would sell in the $16 range and may (or may not) meet the Ford specifications. What I like about Motorcraft products is that they meet the specifications every part, every time.

This is true but many times the aftermarket is just as good for half the price. But my car is something I would never cheap out on, so if I'm going to buy replacements spark plugs, or a replacement air filter, I'd rather spend the extra money and get iridium plugs, and a k&n filter for example. Or, Ford may charge you 100 bucks for a belt, and autozone has a belt that will work perfectly fine and last just as long (not duralast, that's just garbage) for half the price. I just had a belt replaced on my Econoline, the aftermarket belt was higher quality and cheaper. But I definitely agree with you on the fact that you can't go wrong buying Ford parts sometimes. SOME parts of the car are designed a certain way for a reason, others can be replaced or upgraded.