Spiffster Report post Posted May 5, 2010 Just about to hit 5k on this fine machine and I just have a few questions about oil changes. First, what do you folks recommend as far as getting the car off the ground? Ramps or a floor jack and some jack stands? If you have used either, please recommend a model. I know this car is a bit of a porker on the scales, so I really should steer clear of anything with less the 2 ton capacity, correct? I would also like to use this equipment to change the oil on my wife's Kia Sorento and i know that thing is no feather-weight. And one last question, and im sure this is in the manual somewhere but I have misplaced it... how much oil does the 2.5 i4 hold? Im going to be using mobil 1 full synth 5w-20. Responses are much appreciated, thanks! -Jeremy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
akirby Report post Posted May 5, 2010 (edited) Just about to hit 5k on this fine machine and I just have a few questions about oil changes. First, what do you folks recommend as far as getting the car off the ground? Ramps or a floor jack and some jack stands? If you have used either, please recommend a model. I know this car is a bit of a porker on the scales, so I really should steer clear of anything with less the 2 ton capacity, correct? I would also like to use this equipment to change the oil on my wife's Kia Sorento and i know that thing is no feather-weight. And one last question, and im sure this is in the manual somewhere but I have misplaced it... how much oil does the 2.5 i4 hold? Im going to be using mobil 1 full synth 5w-20. Responses are much appreciated, thanks! -Jeremy I use a set of plastic rhino ramps - they work great and have plenty of capacity. http://doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageID=64&SKU=572241&utm_source=Froogle&utm_medium=FREECSE&utm_term=572241&utm_content=6790&utm_campaign=DATAFEED The manuals are online. Also understand that the factory 5W-20 is a synthetic blend already so you're not gaining a lot switching to mobil-1. And make sure the mobil-1 meets the Ford specs (I think it does but make sure). https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp Edited May 5, 2010 by akirby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spiffster Report post Posted May 5, 2010 I use a set of plastic rhino ramps - they work great and have plenty of capacity. http://doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageID=64&SKU=572241&utm_source=Froogle&utm_medium=FREECSE&utm_term=572241&utm_content=6790&utm_campaign=DATAFEED The manuals are online. Also understand that the factory 5W-20 is a synthetic blend already so you're not gaining a lot switching to mobil-1. And make sure the mobil-1 meets the Ford specs (I think it does but make sure). https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp Thanks for the quick response! It looks like I will be fine using Mobil 1 5w-20:http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?/topic/1503-conventional-vs-synthetic/I get this stuff at Walmart for just over 22$ a gallon... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerrieric Report post Posted May 5, 2010 Why changing at 5K? Thought the manual said every 10K. I used to change the oil in my bike every 3k but went to what the book recommends 8k. Why waste money? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grey Report post Posted May 5, 2010 And why spend $22 a gallon for something you are going to cvhange out in 5-10,000 miles. I bought my last 5 quart jug of Motorcraft 5W20 for $11.50 at WallyWorld. Unless you are planning on going 20,000 miles between oil changes, my purchase represents the far better value with no sacrafice in performance or protection. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff_h Report post Posted May 5, 2010 I use a set of plastic rhino ramps - they work great and have plenty of capacity. Same here with the rhino ramps, they work fine. You will also need a 7mm and 10mm socket/driver to remove the screws that hold the plastic covers for the drain plug and filter. Also a 13mm socket for the drain plug. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dogo88 Report post Posted May 5, 2010 Here's another option that I took. Go to www.flmowner.com and click on the Works. For $29.95 you get an oil change, tire rotation and multipoint inspection which they top off all fluids. You don't have to get dirty, or get under the car. The Walmart oil and filter cost is almost $20. So for another $10 you get all the rest and not dirty.Oh and the manual indicates oil interval to be 10,000 miles and that's what I follow. No reason to waste money. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
akirby Report post Posted May 6, 2010 You don't have to get dirty, or get under the car. But that's the FUN part!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dogo88 Report post Posted May 6, 2010 But that's the FUN part!!! True. I've been doing all my own cars maintenance for over 40 years but it's getting harder to climb up from under the vehicle. ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spiffster Report post Posted May 7, 2010 And why spend $22 a gallon for something you are going to cvhange out in 5-10,000 miles. I bought my last 5 quart jug of Motorcraft 5W20 for $11.50 at WallyWorld. Unless you are planning on going 20,000 miles between oil changes, my purchase represents the far better value with no sacrafice in performance or protection. Dang! I didnt notice that they had Motorcraft there or I would have bought that. I just have always used Mobil 1 in both our cars an my Duc. I am only changing the oil at 5k because of break-in. I know that's probably no longer necessary but I'm not going to take any chances on a $33,000 car. That's just me... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
akirby Report post Posted May 7, 2010 Dang! I didnt notice that they had Motorcraft there or I would have bought that. I just have always used Mobil 1 in both our cars an my Duc. I am only changing the oil at 5k because of break-in. I know that's probably no longer necessary but I'm not going to take any chances on a $33,000 car. That's just me... The motorcraft 5w-20 at wallyworld is the factory synthetic blend, not the full synthetic. If you want full synthetic you'd still need the mobil-1. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
geopilot Report post Posted May 7, 2010 In my FFH 5 quarts puts the oil level about the middle of the range on the dip stick. Do you guys leave it at that, or fill it all the way to the top of the mark on the dip stick? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dogo88 Report post Posted May 7, 2010 In my FFH 5 quarts puts the oil level about the middle of the range on the dip stick. Do you guys leave it at that, or fill it all the way to the top of the mark on the dip stick? I've only had one oil change at 10,000 miles by the dealer and they filled it up. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FFHdriver Report post Posted May 7, 2010 In my FFH 5 quarts puts the oil level about the middle of the range on the dip stick. Do you guys leave it at that, or fill it all the way to the top of the mark on the dip stick?Interesting, 5 quarts put mine on the full mark. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
turtlejj Report post Posted May 8, 2010 On my first oil change, adding 5 quarts put the level at three "diamonds" (cross-hatched area) below the full line on the stick. The level when it was new was about two below the line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FFHdriver Report post Posted May 9, 2010 (edited) On my first oil change, adding 5 quarts put the level at three "diamonds" (cross-hatched area) below the full line on the stick. The level when it was new was about two below the line.I looked on the website for owners manuals and the 4th printing on 2.5L non Hybrid cars shows 5 liters or 5.3 quarts. The 3rd printing for hybrids still shows 4.7 liters or 5 quarts. Different oil pans????? Edited May 9, 2010 by FFHdriver Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
