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rfruth

force ICE to run, how ?

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Every now and then I want the ICE to run (to check for unusual noises under the hood etc) but how ?

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Is that how a trained mechanic does it - it takes two people - are you serious, does the car shoot forward if the nut behind the wheel pops the car into gear (thought there might be a jumper or something) ?

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If the car is not warmed up, turn the heat on. It will keep the ICE on for at least 5 minutes.

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Is that how a trained mechanic does it - it takes two people - are you serious, does the car shoot forward if the nut behind the wheel pops the car into gear (thought there might be a jumper or something) ?

 

 

On the plus side, you can rest in peace knowing that there is a rev limiter in place as running the engine unloaded at high speeds can blow things up. The bad news is that i've actually seen mechanics at shops do stuff like this with the car in park. On the old throttle bodies, you could play around with engine speeds from under the hood, but i'm not sure how you do that on these electronic TB's.

 

There is a repair shop not far from me where two techs were actually working on a very old SUV with transmission problems when the transmission popped itself into gear on its own and the mechanic in the front got hit, and smashed through the service bay door with the vehicle until someone was able to run and kill the engine.

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A trained mechanic does this by having a trained mechanic help him for a minute. That usually avoids the problem with the nut dropping the car into gear. BTW: there is no gear to drop into with the hybrid AND all modern cars are required to have a park/brake interlock. Alternatively you can turn on the heat and wait a minute for the ICE to turn on by itself as stated.

 

If you purchase the multi-thousand dollar service interface that plugs into the car you might also be able to set the ICE to run in a service mode. The dealer mechanics have those.

 

Jon

 

 

Damn dude, you asked a question, I gave an answer. "thanks" is how you pronounce that word you were looking for.

 

And yes, I've seen plenty of trained mechanics do just this type thing, whether pulling the throttle cable from the engine compartment or having an assistant or customer press the pedal while the mechanic listens to the noises being made to diagnose the problem.

 

And if you're that worried about the computer popping the car in to gear, then take the front wheels off the ground... problem solved.

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Thought I read somewhere that putting it in Neutral should force the ICE to run, but

it doesn't automatically. Seems if you turn on a few accessories, it should go on

easily.

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That's not why there is a rev limiter. It's to prevent the transmission from being dropped into gear with the engine at high rpm which could damage the transmission. It won't hurt the engine. Race engines run near redline for hours.

 

 

I am only quoting what an Indian mechanical engineering graduate student who interned for Toyota told me. I know that the rev limiter is there to prevent damage to the transmission, but he stated something about how car engines were not designed to be turned over constantly at high rpms without it bearing any load. My field is Economics and not ME, so I took him at his word.

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Internal Combustion Engine (the gasoline fed engine, not the electric motors)

 

 

Thanks. I am not familiar -yet- with the terminology of hybrid vehicules. A few years ago we didn't have to call the engine and "Internal combustion engine" :hysterical2:

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Pardon my ignorance, was is ICE ??

 

What, your Fusion didn't come with the automatic ice-maker?

 

How, pray tell, do you properly mix your cocktails on the commute home?

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A few years ago we didn't have to call the engine and "Internal combustion engine" :hysterical2:

 

Then how did you differentiate from diesel engines and internal combustion engines?

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A diesel engine is an ICE.

 

Omg uhh... *hides in corner* wasn't thinking earlier of course it is just different cycle :doh:

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And I was quoting a former Ford transmission engineer. You won't damage an engine by running it at high revs for a few minutes.

 

 

Information is only as good as the source, and I trust your source more.

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I would have to agree running it a high RPM's will not damage the vehicle. I'm in Canada and the days have started to get colder. I will start my car and let it idle, it will automatically go into a high idle mode (like a diesel) and idle at 2000 RPMS with a gas consumption of 30+ l/100km. If I begin to move the car, it will use the electric motor to drive the car while still idling the ICE at around the 2000 mark. Until I begin to drive a bit more aggressively, does the engine lower it's RPMS and begin propelling the car. If the ICE is still cold, and I come to a red light, same thing, revs up to 2000 RPMS to keep the ICE warm in the chilly weather.

 

Long story short, allowing the engine to rev at higher RPM's in my opinion won't hurt it, especially with a CVT.

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Zacher, I am confused. I cannot drive my car on electric motor only while the ICE is warming up or even after ICE is warmed up as long as it is running. When the thermometer icon on the left of the dash turns blue (green??) I am able to use the electric motor for propulsion. Unfortunately, my car didn't come with an engine block heater (which should be STANDARD on all hybrids north of the Mason Dixon line) and it is now taking me 8 miles for the system to be warm enough for the ICE to turn off. I went from 40+ mpg to about 35 at best. If I had known, I would have waited for one with a block heater. Dealer quoted me almost $300 to install one. He said it just got listed on Ford's parts list for the Fusion Hybrid. $80 if factory accessory.

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Zacher, I am confused. I cannot drive my car on electric motor only while the ICE is warming up or even after ICE is warmed up as long as it is running. When the thermometer icon on the left of the dash turns blue (green??) I am able to use the electric motor for propulsion. Unfortunately, my car didn't come with an engine block heater (which should be STANDARD on all hybrids north of the Mason Dixon line) and it is now taking me 8 miles for the system to be warm enough for the ICE to turn off. I went from 40+ mpg to about 35 at best. If I had known, I would have waited for one with a block heater. Dealer quoted me almost $300 to install one. He said it just got listed on Ford's parts list for the Fusion Hybrid. $80 if factory accessory.

 

"All levels can show instant fuel economy, fuel economy history, odometer, engine coolant temperature, what gear the car is in and trip data (trip fuel economy, time-elapsed fuel economy and miles to empty). The engine coolant temperature indicator turns green when engine conditions are warm enough to allow engine pull-down."

 

However I've only ever seen it turn green in the Empower mode. I warm my car up for about 5 minutes before leaving when it's 0C (32F) or so. It'll be even longer once we hit the -32C (-32F) temps. The car will then use EV mode earlier in my travels, if I allow the ICE to warm up. Perhaps it's a Canadian thing, allowing your car to warm up. I don't know.

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"All levels can show instant fuel economy, fuel economy history, odometer, engine coolant temperature, what gear the car is in and trip data (trip fuel economy, time-elapsed fuel economy and miles to empty). The engine coolant temperature indicator turns green when engine conditions are warm enough to allow engine pull-down."

 

However I've only ever seen it turn green in the Empower mode. I warm my car up for about 5 minutes before leaving when it's 0C (32F) or so. It'll be even longer once we hit the -32C (-32F) temps. The car will then use EV mode earlier in my travels, if I allow the ICE to warm up. Perhaps it's a Canadian thing, allowing your car to warm up. I don't know.

 

You do not need to warm up the car by idling! The thermometer only turns green in Empower. It is advisory only. Ignore it. You are wasting more fuel by idling and not moving the car. You should have an engine block heater for cold Canadian temperatures. When the little green car icon in the lower right corner comes on when you turn the key, drive! Modern cars and oils do not need to warm up after the engine is started before they are driven. If you want to warm up the interior of the car, that's a different story. In N.J. years ago in an unheated attached garage, I put a sheet metal insert in the open drivers window attached by a hose to the house hot/cold air heating system. Not many have that option. I moved to Florida!

 

Lee

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