License Plate Brackets ?

[stlouisgeorge]

Of course my dealer did not install a rear license plate bracket.

Does anyone know the official part number?

 

On the Ford Parts website I show the front one, but no rear one. Will this work on the rear of my 2017 FFH?

Front is part # 17A385A

 

 

 

[gkinla]

There is no license plate bracket on the trunk lid. There are screw holes to attach the license plate directly to the trunk lid. Screws can be obtained from the Ford parts department.

 

[stlouisgeorge]

OK. That makes sense. I was in a hurry to accept the car (missed a razor blade(!) on the leather passenger seat..). The salesguy gave me a plastic bag with 4 small screws.

 

You save me a trip to the dealer. Thanks!

[stlouisgeorge]

I am hoping not to have to drill holes in my car but..

 

( can't find any reference in my FFH manual concerning license plates (other than the light bulb and trunk release). So a question..

 

There are 6 "guide" ("drill here") circles on the car where the license plate would attach to the rear bumper. Three on each upper corner.

 

Do the sheet metal (style) screws my dealer gave me tap the matching two holes?

I'm not getting out a drill.. ..yet

[mwr]

Why not take it back to the dealer and have them do it? They should have done it in the first place.

[gkinla]

I am hoping not to have to drill holes in my car but..

 

( can't find any reference in my FFH manual concerning license plates (other than the light bulb and trunk release). So a question..

 

There are 6 "guide" ("drill here") circles on the car where the license plate would attach to the rear bumper. Three on each upper corner.

 

Do the sheet metal (style) screws my dealer gave me tap the matching two holes?

I'm not getting out a drill.. ..yet

 

These "holes" are filled with a soft material to grab and prevent the screw from backing out due to vibration. The three holes match different states or country's, license plate mounting holes. There is no need to drill anything. Two screws for the front and two for the rear. There should be two small flexible protrusions below the 3 holes on each side to support the lower part of the license plate. By the way, I believe the this part of the trunk is plastic. If the protrusions don't fit your plate, just let the plate rest against the protrusions, they are there to prevent/reduce vibration. See below picture.

 

Edited January 23, 2017 by gkinla

[stlouisgeorge]

These "holes" are filled with a soft material to grab and prevent the screw from backing out due to vibration. The three holes match different states or country's, license plate mounting holes. There is no need to drill anything. Two screws for the front and two for the rear. There should be two small flexible protrusions below the 3 holes on each side to support the lower part of the license plate. By the way, I believe the this part of the trunk is plastic. If the protrusions don't fit your plate, just let the plate rest against the protrusions, they are there to prevent/reduce vibration.

 

Looking good!

 

I got 4 of those threaded screws from the dealership. That's it. On the front bracket the screws go right through the two holes on the top of the bracket.

Guess I'm missing some hardware..

 

Looks like I can install the rear ones though. (and without a drill!).

 

Thanks

[gkinla]

 

Looking good!

 

I got 4 of those threaded screws from the dealership. That's it. On the front bracket the screws go right through the two holes on the top of the bracket.

Guess I'm missing some hardware..

 

Looks like I can install the rear ones though. (and without a drill!).

 

Thanks

 

On the front license plate bracket, the two screws go on the bottom of the plate. There are two tabs on the upper part of the license plate bracket, the license plate goes under these tabs and the screws are used on the bottom of the plate.

[gkinla]

On the front license plate bracket, the two screws go on the bottom of the plate. There are two tabs on the upper part of the license plate bracket, the license plate goes under these tabs and the screws are used on the bottom of the plate.

Edited January 24, 2017 by gkinla

[stlouisgeorge]

Well.. its all done. After enjoying my third free Auto Butler carwash, I presented myself at the 1970's era service shop at Awfullberg North Ford (remember when you couldn't just drive in to meet the service manager?). On my demand, they happily threw one flunky, and then later an actual mechanic (when our flunky was perplexed) out to put on my plates.

 

 

After consulting a real mechanice, "Flunky" put on the front plate using with the correct hardware using a powered tool (I will never be able to sell the car because the screws are so tight). The bracket is upside down compared to your photo. He is "flunky" because he was dressed like a mechanic but, like me scratched his head over the dual 3-hole guides on the top corners of the rear plates and why the screws I got didn't fit the front bracket.

 

The real mechanic used the [self tapping] threading screws to securely attach the rear plate. Given the lights, camera, and trunk-open button all right over the rear plate, I am not sure a bracket would help or hurt :)) He mentioned how the rubber nubs on the bottom side of the rear plate acceptor have all but eliminated mysterious rattles those poor hapless customers have experienced (usually soon into the second month of ownership - a week after taking off the paper plates and replacing with sheer metal ones).

 

The tire pressures on my "green" Michelin tires on delivery were 5-6 pounds over (about 41lbs). The mechanic put the pressure properly down to spec 35lbs. - I will get razzed, but I implore everyone everywhere to use ONLY the tire pressure on your driver door sticker (at least for your factory wheels and tires). Try to close your eyes and imagine the understanding looks of a Ford or Michelin engineer as you explain how great it is to not follow their simple instruction. This 2017 car with all driver assist technology is well engineered in regards to assist involving wheels, brakes and tires. Tires and their proper pressure (maximizing rubber surface with road) are critical. For example, with the Ford Adaptive Cruise Control with Stop and Go your tire contact area is critical to braking results (your computer assumes your tire pressure is at least ballpark to their spec)f in a near accident (had a "pre pressurize the brake calipers" event last week).

 

When the high-speed feature kicks in to assist you around a tight corner (feel it in the steering wheel?) and then keep you crossing the white line on the right (as centripetal forces push you out of the lane). The Fusion assertively took over for a half second and steered me back in the lane. I was going around a tight turn on an exit about 65MPH in a 45MPH and drifted a out a tiny bit. Amazing.

Edited January 25, 2017 by stlouisgeorge

[gkinla]

 

The bracket is upside down compared to your photo.

 

Just for giggles, here is side view of my 2016 front license bracket/frame. My 2013 had the same bracket/frame. The grill design on the 2017 is different than a 2016. The front bracket/frame was redesigned to fit the new contour. With my frame design, the screws would go into the bumper cover, not good. I do like that the tabs are now on the bottom, more stable.

 

Edited January 25, 2017 by gkinla

[Cobra348]

... <snip> ...The tire pressures on my "green" Michelin tires on delivery were 5-6 pounds over (about 41lbs). The mechanic put the pressure properly down to spec 35lbs. - I will get razzed, but I implore everyone everywhere to use ONLY the tire pressure on your driver door sticker (at least for your factory wheels and tires). Try to close your eyes and imagine the understanding looks of a Ford or Michelin engineer as you explain how great it is to not follow their simple instruction. This 2017 car with all driver assist technology is well engineered in regards to assist involving wheels, brakes and tires. Tires and their proper pressure (maximizing rubber surface with road) are critical. For example, with the Ford Adaptive Cruise Control with Stop and Go your tire contact area is critical to braking results (your computer assumes your tire pressure is at least ballpark to their spec)f in a near accident (had a "pre pressurize the brake calipers" event last week).

I run the OEM and Winter tires at 38 PSI cold. When they have been driven a while the TPMS sensor screen ('17 models!!) will have pressures as high as 42 PSI possibly. This is still within spec and there is no real loss of handling/braking. If your tires were checked hot, they may now be a bit underinflated. Always check tires when they are cold.

 

TIP: Go to your favorite auto parts store (AutoZone, Advance, etc) and get a Slime tire inflator. It plugs into the 12V socket, can be set to a predetermined pressure. All you need do is have the car running, plug it in, check the preset pressure limit then fasten the hose to your valve (this screws on like the valve cap) and turn the compressor on. It will auto-off when your preset pressure is reached. Saves dropping coins into the air pumps at the gas station. This puppy also comes with some fittings to inflate footballs, etc. as well. About US$25 or so plus any tax. I have one in the trunk.

Edited January 25, 2017 by Cobra348

[stlouisgeorge]

TIP: Go to your favorite auto parts store (AutoZone, Advance, etc) and get a Slime tire inflator. It plugs into the 12V socket, can be set to a predetermined pressure. All you need do is have the car running, plug it in, check the preset pressure limit then fasten the hose to your valve (this screws on like the valve cap) and turn the compressor on. It will auto-off when your preset pressure is reached. Saves dropping coins into the air pumps at the gas station. This puppy also comes with some fittings to inflate footballs, etc. as well. About US$25 or so plus any tax. I have one in the trunk.

The annual "your tires are underinflated warning(!)" is a rite of passage every Fall.. Panic, then realizing it happened 12 months ago!

 

I was thinking I would adjust my own tires and pathetically was fumbling coins in 30 degrees in pitch dark near my gas station. Of course I dropped the stem cover immediately (took 10 minutes with my lights on the car set to bright to find it).

Ugg.. The dealer took care of it with a very expensive looking, fool-proof (and my God they were fools..) device. I do have a "slime inflator". I'll probably use that next time.

Edited January 26, 2017 by stlouisgeorge