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So, my mechanic had left the car with the ac on full blast, and my car ended up with the high voltage battery completely depleted, and roughly 33% rechargeable. MPG aslo dropped by quite a bit. My model is a 2019 with lithium battery pack, and only has 95k miles on it. They supposed to come with automatic reconditioning, but occasionally this doesn't happen. I researched what this 'reconditioning' procedure is, and some mechanics may have tools to charge and deplete the battery pack several times, and restore it to much of its former glory. I don't have the tools, but I can do the charging and depleting from the car, as the "Empower" window shows the state of charge on my car, as well as the energy output to the electric motor. First I tried fully charging the battery for longer time, but that didn't do anything to recover the cells. Then I used the Empower window, to make sure the battery got completely depleted, by running the car on electric only. In Empower, a fully charged battery reaches about 2.25 bars (equals roughly 22kW or 30HP on electric motor output). I kept the motor output at 2 bars on the Empower indicator, where it struggled to reach even 50MPH (where as before it could easily do 70MPH at 2 bars). Once the battery level lowers to 2 bars, lower the motor output to stay below the state of charge indicator. If the output exceeds the state of charge, the engine will start, and you want to prevent this from happening, as you don't want to charge the battery just yet. At least not until the state of charge is below 0.1 bar (roughly 1-2 hp motor output). You'd have to have a fine foot, to keep the motor output under the state of charge the entire time, and a large safe space, where you won't hit anything, and won't bother cars behind you, as the car will slow down going on all electric. A good place to do this, if you don't own a dyno, is on a long straight road, without any side streets, preferably at night or late in the evening, when there's no traffic. And put lane assist on, as you need to switch your focus between keeping the car on the road, just not to end up in the ditch, and keeping the motor output below the state of charge on the indicator. Once the state of charge reaches nearly zero, the engine will automatically engage. You'll want this to happen with the SoC being as low as possible. When recharging, I find the battery charges fastest between 2.5 and 2.75 bars in eco mode, as less power is transferred to the wheels in eco mode, amd more power is harvested by the generator. You don't really need to fully charge the battery, but at least let it run up to 1 of 2 bars. The bms just needs to trigger the dead cell to charge. Once it charges, it can later figure out how much charge the cell can hold as you're driving normally, during its automated reconditioning procedures. Hence, the phase of emptying the battery cells during a manual reconditioning, is more important than the charging phase. Then repeat the process (completely empty the battery, and recharge) for a few times. Sometimes you can recover a significant amount of battery. Other times, only a little, as cells have lost even more voltage potential over the course of time when the bms bypassed them. Charging from a depleted state, will trigger a 'try to charge the cells'-action in the BMS, for those cells that are considered dead. The BMS will never charge these cells when the pack is charged up, because the charge current would be too high for the 'dead' cell (the dead cell would be charged from the other cells in the pack, and could overheat). Instead the BMS just disables the cell it sees as not functioning, until the rest of the pack has a similar low voltage. Then it'll try to charge the cells, just like the other cells, with a low current (divided over the other cells). The BMS will only try to charge the dead cells, when the rest of the pack is relatively balanced with the dead cell in terms of charge. I've repeated the process of charge discharge, about 5 times, and while I haf lost nearly 2/3rd of the battery charge before manually reconditioning, due to the error of my mechanic, I estimate that roughly 1/4th has been recovered since then, to a SOC between 50% to 66% of new (estimated). I'll probably need to redo the procedure again to about a good 10x charge/discharge cycles to have it working good again. Should take roughly 2 hours time (estimated). The procedure is nowhere explained, which is why I created this thread. If your battery has recently died, it should work without any expensive tools. I recommend to do the manual reconditioning procedure only when you've recently noticed a significant drop in mpg, and electric range. For me, that didn't happen until 95k miles. You apparently also can manually charge individual cells in a pack, when the above procedure was unsuccessful, by opening the pack, using a 1,2V charger, some crocodile clamps on each pouch cell cathode and anode pins, and bringing individual cells back to life through directly charging them (without bms). This procedure is significantly more tedious, but could save you thousands on repairs, if you have the time. That's also how battery repair shops repair a battery pack. They first recondition, and only replace the cells when necessary.

I'm have driven two different FFH in the past week. The first was 2015 se the second a 2016 titanium. The 2015 Regen did not engage untill I put pressure on the brake pedal, but the 2016 engages as soon as I release the throttle pedal. Which one is functioning properly?

Does anybody (maybe one of the Energi owners out there) know if Ford has a recommended home charging station, model, specs, etc. to do 220V-240V charging? It seems there are alot of these out there, and didn't know how standard they are. My electrician said would not be very hard to install in my house.

So - on days this past winter when remote starting my car, I've noticed that when I get in the car several minutes later, the AVG MPG hasn't decreased since I drove the car last and yet the battery is quite full/topped up. So....unless it's lying to me (which I assume is a distinct possibility) it hardly needs ANY fuel to JUST charge the battery, why isn't it a good idea for the car to "sometimes" leave the ICE running, simply to just charge the battery? - JC

Ford’s New Li-Ion Batteries Reduce Use of Rare Earth Metals, Enable Superior Fuel Economy for Fusion, C-MAX Hybrids New projected 47-mpg Ford Fusion Hybrid and EPA-certified 47-mpg C-MAX Hybrid feature lighter, more efficient, more powerful lithium-ion batteries that are expected to reduce Ford’s use of expensive, rare earth metals by up to 500,000 pounds annually Dysprosium, the most expensive rare earth metal used in Ford vehicles, is reduced by approximately 50 percent in new Fusion and C-MAX hybrids’ electric machines These rare earth metal reductions helped Ford cut the cost of its third-generation hybrid technology by 30 percent, adding to the overall value of the new C-MAX Hybrid – America’s most affordable hybrid utility vehicle starting at $25,995 – and Fusion Hybrid Ford C-Max Hybrid Forum – Ford’s third-generation hybrid system, which replaces nickel-metal-hydride batteries with new lighter, more efficient lithium-ion batteries, could reduce the company’s use of expensive, less-abundant rare earth metals by up to 500,000 pounds a year. This reduction of rare earth metals is important for both financial and physical reasons. First, the cost is reduced by 30 percent when compared to previous-generation hybrid batteries. Also, lithium-ion batteries are 50 percent lighter and 25 to 30 percent smaller. The result: Better fuel efficiency in Ford’s new electric vehicle offerings, including a projected 47 mpg for Fusion Hybrid and an EPA-certified 47 mpg for C-MAX Hybrid. “We’re continually looking to find ways to provide greater fuel efficiency as well as cost savings to customers of our hybrid vehicles, and the reduction of rare earth metals is a key part of this strategy,” said Chuck Gray, chief engineer, Global Core Engineering, Hybrid and Electric Vehicles.“The third-generation hybrid technology we are now using builds on our 20 years of electric vehicle innovations.” Among the rare earth metals used in nickel-metal-hydride batteries are neodymium, cerium, lanthanum and praseodymium, none of which are used in the new lithium-ion batteries. Additionally, Ford has reduced its use of dysprosium by approximately 50 percent in magnets employed in the hybrid system’s electric machines. Dysprosium is the most expensive rare earth metal used in Ford vehicles. This reduction is the result of a new diffusion process that is used in the magnet manufacturing process. The overall reduction of rare earth metals in the lithium-ion batteries and electric machines lowers vehicle costs, which is key as Ford triples production of its electric vehicles by 2013, ultimately translating to more affordable, fuel-efficient vehicle choices for customers. Rare earth metals are a set of 17 atomic elements in the periodic table. While some are indeed rare, others are plentiful within specific regions in the earth’s crust. These metals are used in many consumer products including mobile phones, LED televisions, computer screens and hybrid vehicle batteries. Maximum power of choice The 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid is projected to deliver best-in-class 47 mpg on the highway, making it America’s most fuel-efficient sedan. The new Fusion will also give customers the power to choose across three powertrain options – gasoline, hybrid and plug-in hybrid. Ford’s all-new C-MAX Hybrid, in showrooms this fall, is EPA-certified at 47 mpg on the highway, 47 mpg in the city and 47 mpg combined, making it America’s most fuel-efficient hybrid utility vehicle. C-MAX Energi, launching later this fall, is projected to deliver 95 MPGe. Press releases, videos, photos and other material related to Ford’s electrified vehicles can be found here.