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A family member put new rotors and pads on all four corners of my granddaughter's 2014 Fusion Hybrid recently and now I have a few problems. The scariest thing is that when stopping, the brakes act normal up to a certain point, bringing the car to a near stop, then it acts just like I'm stopping on ice; the pedal feels normal, but the car doesn't stop, it sorta coasts to a stop. I'm also seeing Traction Control, ABS, Brake system and hill start assist lights that weren't there before.

So I have 92,000 miles and when I start the car no warning lights come on. When I start to brake the regen brakes work fine but right before the car comes to a complete stop at about 5mph it’s like the brakes lock up for a split second and the car “jerks” and then the brake, abs, and traction control warning lightscome on. Disabling the regen brakes (which is annoying) and the abs system BUT the car doesn’t jerk anymore when coming to a stop. I took it to a ford delearship and replaced the master cylinder for $1100... and it helped for 1day then the next morning it happens again. The only code my car puts out on my scan tool is C1029 which we thought was the brake master cylinder . Please please please Can anyone help me

Hello, So i am having no luck in finding anybody else with this problem and i don't want to just start throwing expensive parts at it. 2018 Ford Fusion Hybrid APPROX: 41,000 miles Problems are as follows: ABS light (non-op)Traction control light (non-op)The Electronic assist part of the power steering (as in i still have power steering, it is not 100% out, but you can't "one finger" the steering wheel. If that makes sense)Hill start assist (non-opParking aid (non-op)Predicted path in the back up camera (non-op)Cruse control (non-op) (most annoying part)All of these things will all go out at once. This started off as an intermittent problem that seemed to only happen if i went through a puddle or if it was raining. With the cold weather, (Currently 20F degrees in Wisconsin) all these problems have been for the past week. The first thing that came to my mind is a bad Wheel speed sensor. I have replaced both front sensors 11/7, but it didn't fix anything. They are not that expense and figured it would be worth a shot. Worst part is i'm supposed to drive to California on 11/19. This will make for an unhappy leg with no cruse. Soonest i can get it into a dealer around me is December. Not sure where to go form here. Anybody ever seen anything like this? Could the ABS module be crapping out on me? Thank you. P.S. Didn't mean to post in 'Welcome'. Don't think i can move it now.... sorry

My 2011 Fusion only has 60k miles and the extended warranty expired in May 2018. All of a sudden, couple of days ago, the break would go all the way to the floor and the car would barely stop. I was luckily in a parking lot. The dash had the wrench symbol and also brake system warning and Service Advancetrac. Occasionally, there would be some sounds coming from the dash but no lights, until this incident. The dealer ran some diags and says that the ABS ECU and ABS HCU need to be replaced. The verbiage is REPLACE THE ABS ECU AND THE ABS HCU MODULE , REPROGRAM AND CALIBRATE THE ABS ECU AND ABS HCU MODULE , ABS SERVICE BLEED AND ABS MANUAL BRAKE BLEEDING PROCEDUREOBSERVATIONS: RETRIEVE HISTORY DTC U3000:49 , C0001:49 , C0022:1D , AND C0022:49 FROM THE ABS MODULE ( ABS , TCS , AND BRAKE BOOSTER SOLENOID INTERNAL FAULT ). The dealer says the parts alone cost $2200 and labr another $800. Huge bill. Should i contact Ford Customer Care and explain the extended warranty and ask for a discount? Also, is it better to get this done at a local shop instead of the dealer?

I'd think that if the ABS system kicks in that you wouldn't get a 100% brake score. I would think that anytime the ABS kick on that you're not getting all your regen because the system pumps the brakes and I don't imagine that the electric motor can do that through regen. However, so far I have still gotten a 100% brake score every time I have had the ABS kick on both in our FFH and driving my parents' C-Max Energi the past few days. My next test will be to find a parking lot and engage the ABS while looking down at the ScanGauge amps flowing to the HVB to see if there is any interruption in current flow when the ABS kick on while still getting a 100% brake score. Has anyone else tested this?