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I've had my FFH-SE for almost a year now and have put about 5k miles on it. Its a 14' with 75k miles. Everythings been fine except its been acting a little strange sometimes. Occasionally when I'm parking the vehicle (I always use the parking brake) I come to a stop, put the vehicle in park, activate the parking brake, and turn off the vehicle. After that last step, sometimes the car will completely power off and will not enter retained accessory power mode (ie radio and windows still working). If this happens I usually start the vehicle again. When I do I notice that my settings are back to default and the AM radio is on. Also the start-up chime sounds old (the "duu-daa-dum"). And a message will pop-up saying theres a parking brake fault and to get service. I disengage the parking brake and everything fine again. Another time I was putting washer fluid in and I left the driver door open. After I finished checking fluids and such I came back inside the car and notice that everything was off. Like everything. After slight panic of not even knowing how to open the trunk in this situation (to access the 12v batt). Everything came back on and was on default. Other times I will start the vehicle from a being away from it for 8 or more hours and the wrench light will come on as soon as I start it (has only happened twice). I can usually get the wrench to go away by cycling the power a few times. Anywho all of these things have been happening in the past few weeks. Now that I've wrote this all down I feel the 12v battery may be the issue so i will get that tested now. But does anyone have anything to add?

My Battery Story - I share these details only so that others can compare their similar experiences, since each story seems to have some variations each time. A few days ago, just before arriving on my drive home, it started raining. I pulled into my garage, got into my house and then pressed the key fob to set the alarm. It didn't chirp, so I went back to the garage to investigate. While headed back, I instantly remembered I had manually turned on the lights not too far from home because of the rain. In fact, I was thinking to myself "how smart of this car to not let me set the alarm without turning off the lights". Sure enough, the lights are on but, strangely enough, the car is locked and the key fob will not respond - not for unlock, lock, trunk, panic - nothing. Thinking maybe the key fob battery is low, I retrieve my backup fob - no difference. Illuminated key pad is also inoperable - displays a single red light, but will not display the numbers. Knowing I need to manually get in the car to turn off the lights, I realize that I do not know how to remove the key cover, and my owner's manual is inside the locked car. So, after several feeble attempts, I go back inside, download the owner's manual from the internet, and then accomplish the task. Once inside the vehicle, I turn off the lights, and am aware that the car is dark. No interior lights, no dash, even the map lights are inoperable to touch. I put the key in the ignition and the car starts up like a charm! No problem whatsoever - "Ready to Drive". I turn it off...back to darkness. I set the alarm and went back inside the house to call the service dept. The alarm does not chirp, but does lock the doors. So, I hope that maybe I'll at least be able to get it started in the morning. While talking with the service dept, I went back to garage and notice that the interior light was on and the side mirror lights were also illuminated - they would not turn off. I could now use the key fob to unlock, but only the driver door. Ultimately, I decided to just leave the car garaged and unarmed, as this was the only way to have the least amount of battery drain overnight. Next morning, I unarm the car and get in - still pitch black, no lights whatsover. Turn the ignition...no problem whatsoever - "Ready to Drive". I make it to Service, describe the problem, and of course...she is now working perfectly. Key fob, alarm, lights all appear as if nothing is wrong. I suspect the 12V battery, and based upon my description, they do too. I get the call later that morning that they tested the battery and it was "no problem". They were suspecting either the regulator or "the big battery", as my service advisor referred to it. ;) He was concerned that they would have to order a new one, and that it would be a potentially long wait. I expressed to him my skepticism as to the HVB being at fault, but he did say they were now testing with a bigger diagnostic tool. Sure enough, he called later to inform me that the 12V battery was indeed at fault and they were seeing all kinds of codes, sometimes showing low charging and sometimes high charging. We did have to wait overnight for a battery to be delivered, but it was installed, tested and apparently, problem solved for now. I say "for now" because this is my 3rd battery. Different presentation from last time (Feb 2013) but same solution. All in all, I still love this car, and if I have to replace the 12v battery every 1-2 years, then so be it - it is a relatively small price to pay. Besides, if its replaced that often, it will probably be under the 3 year replacement warranty each time. (I did have the 14E02 performed as well; 14S21 is still on back order for parts. No apparent effect on MPG, got 54 MPG on the way home in stop-n-go traffic)

This is just some interesting info I came across about how the LVB (12v battery) is monitored. === Battery Load Shed The BCM uses the battery current sensor to keep track of the battery state of charge. The battery current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor attached to the battery ground cable. When the engine is off, and the BCM determines the battery state of charge is below 40% or 10% of the charge has been drained or 45 minutes have elapsed, a load shed message is sent over the CAN. This message turns off the audio/navigation system to save the remaining battery charge. Under this condition, SYS OFF TO SAVE BATT is displayed on the centerstack infotainment display to notify the driver that battery protection actions are active. Engine off load shed occurs when the engine is not running, and the ignition is in the ACC or RUN position. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. = This is a picture of where the Sensor (in Blue) on the 12v battery Ground cable is located.

Hello all, new to owning a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid and new to the forum. I am looking to add my audio system to this new car of mine. I have 2 amps totaling 1000w RMS between the two of them, I am sure they never really get to the full 1000w as I do not crank the knob wide open. The 2 amps power 4 speakers and 2 10" subs. I would be adding component speakers to the front, 6x9s to the rear deck, and 5x7s to the rear doors (the rear doors will be powered by the head unit. I picked up a PAC adapter to keep the factory headunit and sync, but add a 4 channel RCA connection. I wanted to replace the battery with a more powerful one, like a kinetik 2000w but it just won't fit. So I am thinking about using the 1/0 gauge wire I ran to the trunk and connecting that to a 200amp isolator and then to a 2000w kinetik battery in the trunk and running all of my equipment off of that battery. My question: Is this OK to do in a hybrid? Since there isn't a traditional alternator. Or do you think that the Motorcraft 65rc is enough?

Hello all, new to owning a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid and new to the forum. I am looking to add my audio system to this new car of mine. I have 2 amps totaling 1000w RMS between the two of them, I am sure they never really get to the full 1000w as I do not crank the knob wide open. The 2 amps power 4 speakers and 2 10" subs. I would be adding component speakers to the front, 6x9s to the rear deck, and 5x7s to the rear doors (the rear doors will be powered by the head unit. I picked up a PAC adapter to keep the factory headunit and sync, but add a 4 channel RCA connection. I wanted to replace the battery with a more powerful one, like a kinetik 2000w but it just won't fit. So I am thinking about using the 1/0 gauge wire I ran to the trunk and connecting that to a 200amp isolator and then to a 2000w kinetik battery in the trunk and running all of my equipment off of that battery. My question: Is this OK to do in a hybrid? Since there isn't a traditional alternator. Or do you think that the Motorcraft 65rc is enough?