tsetse51

Getting the plugs out of an aluminum engine is precisely the reason they should be changed once in a while. The factory shop manual advises against repairing the heads using Heli-coil inserts, besides the operation being damned tedious and expensive. And use some good anti-seize compound on the threads, and the recommended dielectric grease on the boot. As far as deteriorating performance, that's probably not detectable by most users, or technicians. Ignition systems are that much better, now, than when plugs needed changing at 10k-mile intervals. They'll fire even a plug with almost all the electrodes burned away. But with the difficulty of getting at the plugs in the "right" bank of this engine, (remove the inlet manifold!), I'm not re-installing used plugs. A "couple of years" use will amount to anywhere from 20-30k miles. That's enough high-temperature stress and possible deposits to make even platinum plugs worth replacing. Cheap insurance against expensive repairs later.

Michelin, Michelin, Michelin. I haven't bought "mud & snow" tires in almost 40 years (for passenger vehicles). "All-season" radials by Michelin have served well in every kind of road condition the central US has to test a driver. RWD, FWD, cars, vans, etc. Tried a couple of other brands, but have never been as well satisfied. Just now going into the first full winter with the '10 Fusion, so I don't have a lot of experience with the factory-provided tires, yet. But I expect them to continue to provide traction and stability in snow and rain, as well as on dry pavement. There are probably other brands which can provide the same kind of satisfaction. I just don't feel the need to search for them. If future experience should mandate a change, then I'll be here asking the same questions as you.

Almost anyone in North America who's honest with themselves about their driving conditions/practices can admit that they should follow the "Special Conditions" or "Severe Operating Conditions" maintenance schedule in the manual. As another poster stated, the main enemy of automatic transmissions is heat. That, and the fact that cost accounting has drawn a very fine line between normal operation and over-stressing automotive equipment, means the trans fluid and filter should be changed about every 30K miles.

One old guy to another: +1

There's still a lot of confusion about just what the octane rating means. Simply put: Octane is a measure of a fuel's ability to resist detonation (spontaneous combustion, without a spark) when pressure and heat are applied. Higher-octane gasoline actually burns more slowly than lower-octane gasoline, because it's not as volatile. The use of higher-octane fuel, by itself, does NOT increase the power available. It does allow higher compression pressures to be used, without engine damage from detonation. Higher compression ratios, turbo boost, etc. then can safely be used to increase power output. Modern electronically-controlled engines can make use of fuel with a LOWER than recommended octane rating, by adjusting spark and fuel injection parameters, to some extent. The engine may run satisfactorily under these conditions, but it will not make its full rated power output. Use of fuel with a higher-than-recommended octane rating MAY not cause any problems. It also MAY cause excessive carbon formation in combustion chambers, spark plug fouling or deposits, etc. The best fuel for any gasoline engine is the one with the lowest octane rating specified by the engine maker. It should also NOT be simply the cheapest you can find, from a questionable supplier.

I think you're on the right track. The main advantage of synthetic oils is that they can tolerate much more heat than petroleum oils. Because of the HUGE premium on price, oil manufacturers advocate a much longer change interval with synthetics. It's true that the synthetics don't "break down" (change viscosity) as quickly as petro oils, but that's not the only consideration. Oil in an IC engine gets DIRTY. And the contaminants contribute to wear and corrosion of the engine internals. IMO, 7500-mile (or longer) oil change intervals are ridiculous. Good petroleum oils are exponentially better now than they were years ago. Change the oil and filter at 3000-3500 miles, and keep your engine in excellent condition for a long, long time. As an additional consideration, unless you live where it's very, very cold for most of the year, forget about the 0W-20 or 5W-20 viscosity ratings, as well. Those light oils are specified by manufacturers in order to gain a small increase in their fuel-economy ratings. It does require power to make oil pressure, but the minute increase in fuel economy is not worth using such a thin oil in most engines. Engine operating temperatures are pretty high, and engines are more highly stressed in modern automobiles than ever before. Light-viscosity oils get to about the consistency of lighter fluid when everything's up to temperature. Unless the ambient temperature is going to be around zero, Fahrenheit or lower, for some significant period of time, there's nothing wrong with using an oil rated 15W-40. Just the opinions and experience of an old "tech" guy.

I usually cut a piece of cardboard to make a "ramp" for the oil. Held vertically, with its edge up against the oil pan flange, it's possible to prevent most of the oil running back under the pan. I agree it's a STUPID design. Probably by an "engineer" who's never had his hands dirty.