lolder

23 hours ago, MeeLee said:

What model year is your car?
I just needed to remove a few screws, and the 'sealed box' wasn't sealed anymore, and filter could be replaced.

 

2019 FFH

This sub topic thread is for 2010-12 FFHs which have a lifetime engine air filter that is quite difficult to replace.

Time to junk this car. None of the problems are common. It's been wrecked twice.

Despite the heading for Ford fusion Hybrid the list is a generic one. For instance it refers to an automatic transmission which the FFH does not have. Was the filter dirty?

There is no readily serviceable air filter on the 2010-12 FFH. It's buried in the compartment and it's supposed to be lifetime anyway. It's not clear what you replaced. I doubt that Ford looked at the filter. You were scammed.

On 6/21/2021 at 9:09 AM, wemis said:

I am going to try to crank the heat to see if the thermostat is stuck.  I'll test the battery this evening or tomorrow.  I'm not driving the car currently so tomorrow will be the first chance I can test it most likely.  I have had the issue while running and not running the AC.  Thank you both for your help!  I'll keep everyone posted.  :)

If temperature is normal thermostat is not stuck. The noise you hear may be a nosy electric vacuum pump which Ford is famous for. Mine was noisy for two years before someone rear-ended it and totaled it. If there are no warning codes drive it.

Where is the debris coming from in gear oil? Oil molecules do not break down under normal use. They can burn (oxidize) but that requires a lot of heat which is not present in the eCVT. There are very few sources of friction in the eCVT. Let's also argue what are the best boat anchors.

These eCVTs are not like ordinary manual or automatic transmissions. There is hardly anything to wear, no clutches, bands, belts, valves, shifters, torque converters. It's only gears rolling on continuously engaged gears. I do not think metal particles remain in suspension in oil very long. I've never heard of that function. Oil gets dirty from blow by  but the eCVT transmission fluid is not susceptible to that. It burns if hot enough but that doesn't happen in the eCVT either. This is a sealed unit that requires no service unless it leaks. Oil never wears out. Lets talk religion next. 

On 5/29/2021 at 1:53 AM, dick mcclure said:

 I have the same problem at 50,000 miles on my 2011 MKZ hybrid. I did have the airbag replaced for recall, but cannot figure how that could be related to HV battery

 

If HV has lost some cells, would that not show up in the voltage, and be easy to diagnose?

 

Also, would a check of time for 0 t0 60 mph be a way to test the HV battery output? How much voltage is needed to get the EV assist  ?

You need to have the software fix described here.

https://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=19361

There's probably nothing wrong with your HVB. If you can't do it yourself, print out the beginning of this thread and take it to the Dealer. It's a 15 minute job for them.

Happy result !

No. The 12 vdc does not start the ICE, the HVB does. You are not getting the HVB back on line. This is dangerous work fiddling with the HVB. You may have blown the HVB fuse. You disconnected both batteries so it's unknown what reset is required. The HVB is not user serviceable.

The hybrid is the BMW i3. Low reving engines weigh too much. It costs about as much as a long range Tesla Model 3.

6 hours ago, MeeLee said:

Plenty of posts of people saying their cvt failed at 120-140k miles, because of not changing fluids! 

Don't spread false rumors!

Not true. 2010-12 eCVT failures are almost unheard of. They were built by Aisin in Japan. 2013+ eCVTs were built by Ford and early ones had faulty bearings that no amount of fluid changes would prevent damage. MeeLee you are wrong.

No they don't.

It might be months before Ford can fix the airbags. Drive the car and don't get in to any front end accidents. That's a lot under your control by the way you drive.

On 4/26/2021 at 10:33 PM, MeeLee said:

From my understanding, cvt failure can be prevented by draining and filling up the cvt oil.

 

Replacing about 1 quart every 25k miles starting from ~50-75k miles seems to be a good start.

 

An entire cvt flush can also be done at 100k miles, and is like 5 quart of oil, but requires the cvt to be demounted and taken apart, which is MUCH more costly.

While it's there, the magnetic filter can be cleaned as well. (Which can't be cleaned with a 1 qt oil change).

 

The 120-145k miles one gets out of the cvt without transmission fluid change, can easily be extended to 185-225k miles(or even higher?), by just doing a 1 quart oil change interval every 25k miles.

That's < $250 on insurance for doubling the transmission mileage, you'll get right there.

The Ford eCVT should require no maintenance. The bearing failures were not due to dirty oil but manufacturing defect.

The engine / transmission system of a FFH is a careful compromise that would be impossible to modify. The world is moving on from hybrids to BEVs.

There's no torque converter "locking up". You need a Ford dealer. 2013+ FFH's had trouble with the eCVT transmissions caused mostly be a bad bearing. They started making a grinding noise long before they failed, in fact I haven't heard of any failing. Some also had oil leaks. See if there are any extended warranties past the 8/100k hybrid warranty. The transmission is covered by that.

The engines run very clean and lean so no carbon is normal. The Atkinson cycle has the engine run at almost wide open throttle whenever it runs so no idling. It always runs above 1000-1100 rpm. Was that the only plug that was discolored? How  did the electrode of the new plug compare. I believe they are platinum plugs. I decided I was never going to replace a plug unless it missed.

You convinced me not to do something the manufacturer says you don't have to do.

Changing engine air filters usually does not affect fuel mileage, only total power output.

Why did you change the fluid? Was it dirty?

It's possible the car is in a HVB re-conditioning mode that had been inhibited by the glitch. That causes the ICE to run for about 20 minutes and charge the HVB to over full. It then reverts to normal 50% level. The reconditioning mode requires the ICE to run for a period of time. If you turn the car off before it's complete it will initiate it again next time. Indication that it's reconditioning is charging the HVB to the top and staying there with the ICE continuing to run. If it's not that the dealer didn't do it right so take it back.

Nice job!

The throttle bodies on the FFH are known to soot up and stick are the most common cause of limp mode.

The dealer is ripping you off, as usual. It's likely the throttle body stuck again. Was it replaced before and did you see the old part? I know it's difficult to check dealer work. They are about $200 and easy to replace yourself. They can also be cleaned with something like a wooden tongue depressor.

When Mark Twain said America has no native criminal class, except Congress when in session, that was before automobile dealers.