smr2112

Unclear when they started to ship from the factory with the improved batteries. I suspect it was mostly the

version in the 2013s as the fixed battery came out shortly into 2013. They also improved the charging and

also a cold weather charging TSB (may be the same thing). But it was mostly the battery if you ask me.

I am curious if somebody with a 2014+ hybrid checks their battery and can tell if it says Max or not.

The reality is that the original battery in the hybrids is an absolutely piece of junk by any standard,

the fact that the electrical of that car stresses it even more just compounds the problems as many

of us have seen. Now we are going on 3 years for the 2013s and that's the lifetime of that battery

anyway. Ford's engineering mistake for sure. They don't even sell the original version anymore I

think.

The Ford MAX premium battery that they replaced mine with is obviously much much better, no issues at all.

That's why they sell 3 grades of batteries within a brand - quality of materials, specs, design, etc.

Make sure you get this series if you get free or pay for a replacement.

https://www.fordparts.com/Products/Batteries-MotorcraftTestedToughMAXBatteries.aspx

Yes, simple voltage test and the battery is fine, take it out and do a load test and it likely would fail.

Why they don't get this, I have no idea. That was my experience. You have to ask them. Went

3 times for my, at the final dealer I insisted on the load test and mentioned the TSB - ah, the battery

was bad and they replaced it for free.

There is some issue with data replication on the Latest Sync Version, it'll show up in a day or so,

definitely not immediately in my case either. So once you do the update version, check back in a day....

...and no matter what it shows, it'll say you have the latest version! (Useful, huh !)

Just got off the phone with head Service Manager, and he said "Yep, we screwed up and your service rep should have at least ask me about it".

So will be getting my money back without issue. He went and yelled at guy who took my service order for the alignment, "it's just bad business"

he said - he was there on Saturday and should have at least went and ask somebody more technical, but instead wanted to fight with me.

So thanks guys! Forums saves the day again....

This was Springfield Ford in PA BTW, who I otherwise like, but hate the service writers and the service manager knows there are issues with

them.

Thanks guys, I am headed back to the dealership with the TSB 14-0085 in hand. I keep thinking it was the steering gear bolts that was the issue,

which it still might be, but the transmission leak now seems more likely.

I don't care too much about the $80 or so for alignment, but more principal. I totally trust the mechanics at this place, but the

service people don't go to bat and rather blame me for the issue. I have another dealership further away that I never have

issues with.

What would I do without all of your collective knowledge? :worship:

Just some advise to others who may have this recall done to replace steering gear bolts. I just got a postcard from

Ford on this the same day it was done last week. I am told, like many recalls, you may not actually have issues, but Ford will

requires to do this if you *might* be affected.

Had this recall, door latches recall and also had the TSB for eCVT transmission leak (anybody else with a 2013 have this?).

Dealer had my car for a week while they waited for a part (seal). I had an Enterprise loaner and didn't mind too much

as it was over Thanksgiving. All warranty coverage.

But...when I got the car back and was told they drove it several times, I noticed no issues with transmission. But steering felt

slightly off and steering wheel was noticeably off center, slight pull (really annoys me!). I swear alignment *felt*/seemed fine before I took

it in. So I called dealership and service insisted that steering gear bolts would not in any way affect alignment. Took it in and alignment

was *way* off they told me - but just front - rear was exactly in spec. I ask if it was so far out, why didn't you notice and say something

when you test drove it after repair? You should have been checking to see steering felt/was fine. Nope the service guy says, if your

steering was off it's my job to bring it to their attention. There is where Ford gets a "1" on the survey question that says "Ford has

my best interest and safety in mind when performing service"...

OK, got it aligned today, had to pay $80 - only charged for front-wheel alignment. It's 100% dead on right now, all is fine, no problems

with transmissions either. I say the steering gear bolt repair was related, but can't prove anything.

But if you are taking it in for the steering gear bolt recall, check your alignment before it goes in. Ask dealer to check before the repair

(should be free to check). I have no idea if they did anything wrong really, but more irked I had to take it back.

I have a 2013 Fusion Hybrid and I was able to update the software to 3.8.

OK, and I have a 2013 Fusion Hybrid and it says my version (v3.6.2) is the latest and greatest...so what gives?

Is Ford staggering the availability of this or is there some break in the model year where new version does or

does not work?

OK and GrySql says that Ford site is often wrong, so is there some way to safely override this and try to

install from somewhere else? Ford of course says not to install from an untrusted source.

Just found out I have this issue TSB 14-0085 on my 13 Fusion Hybrid @ 16000 miles. Found during a normal oil change.

Dealer needs car for 3 days or so like the others. Would not normally see this very slow leak because of the covering

under the car not letting it out.

Curious if anybody who has had this was OK afterwards? Seems to be straightforward to fix. Sill server woman/person

service person can't tell me a thing about it at all, not at all technical. I totally trust the mechanic, but trust people in

these forums more !

Anybody who had this give an update?

And what happens for this PCM recall if your car doesn't fail the emissions test before they do

the recall? Do you have to have it done, or just keep my mouth shut. Car is running just

fine.

Also, I see to the 3-4 recalls shown for me on Ford's site, a couple were done (RCM) and

they told me they did treat the steering bold for anti-corrosion, but not replace it. A preventative

measure that they just did without my asking (this makes sense to me).

So the recalls show 4 recalls pending even though 2 of them were done (ie, no indication of completed

recalls from the website).

Just a note too about the Continental PureContract LRR tires - I assume those are the ones you are referring to.

They are great now that I've had them for 1 month, it was well worth the money to make the change pre-maturely

and I can easily tell how much easier the car both rolls and stops better and I assume the rubber compound is much

more "grippy" as I hear it squeak at low speed on my garage floor and driveway. Really makes it a much

more different car and should have had these to begin with. I feel gypped by the original LS2s! They also

absorb bumps better and make the car very quiet on the highway. Highly recommended.

Good write up and they make your car look good and a little more personal.

 

At the risk of wandering off topic, I was looking at your pictures and your GY LS2 tires remind me that I am so glad I changed to Continental LRR tires. During the 32k miles I had the LS2's I didn't think they were a bad tire, in fact, after boosting them to 40psi, though they rode well. Not anymore, my Conti's with their stiff sidewall really changed the car's handling and ride for the better.

Yea, clearly for the 2013s, there were either a bad batch of batteries, or there is a design issue with this battery.

The car may be putting extra load on it when not in use, but many of us have had them go bad in the 2-3 year

window.

You've earned yourself a full warranty replacement! I was told if the battery or a cell tests bad, it's a warranty replacement.

Not sure if there is a 3 year limit on that, but if you live in a cold climate, you may want to mention the TSB for cold weather

charging as well.

About $120 for just the battery where the newer one is much better and a new design. I am hopefully confident that it

will hold up much better than the stock one.

And this is what my mangled lug nut looked like once I got it back from the dealer

after putting on the new ones.

I tried to use a rubber mallet to bang on the socket, but it was not simple and I did

get just one off before I decided not to ruin any more. I mangled a few slightly. The

dealer obviously had to hack this one off.

I am really curious to know what some others who have not yet touched their lugs

find out when they do a simple "fit" test of their socket/wrench. Please, tell me I'm crazy...

This will explain if you weren't aware.

Video for how to remove capped lug nuts▶ 4:43

www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HofplQ-VJk

Apr 5, 2014 - Uploaded by YouBulkit

I decided to film this video after I had problems removing the lug nuts from my ... How to remove ...

An update - Boy I felt stupid last week when I realize what was really going on. I know this has been said,

but the stock lug nuts are just caps - others have said this, but I did not fully realize it. The caps

can easily be mangled up and sit on a nut that is holding the wheel on.

Whatever you want to call it, no stock socket or lug wrench - at least that I own - could get it off,

it just mangled up the lug nut no matter what I did. Got very frustrated. So bought 4 sets of

McGards and had them put on by dealer who did not charge me. Even they had to work to get

the mangled nuts off, but did not have to drill any off the car at least. Any they look good too.

So now I can do something incredible - I can change a flat tire myself! All that work to get the

spare tire that has been talked about here and I could not even get the tire off the car if needed.

Of course the McGard nuts are standard and come off easily and I could check with my

torque wrench too. Should have done that months ago.

And here is a update on my bizarre lug nuts...

Many of you many know this, but this is all recent news to me...

So the stock lug nuts are actually aluminum caps over an actual nut.

The dealer may have a special socket or they come off easily with an

impact wrench, but us mere mortals cannot easily remove them. Hence

I mangled a bunch. This was something totally new to me and now I see

people talking about them, but had no idea what they were specifically until

I saw a YouTube video on how to cut them off (which I did not do).

I bought 4 sets of McGard lug nuts, visiting the dealer for misc. things on

Friday and will have them removed. McGard nuts come off with my standard

socket - no issues (I managed to get one of the capped nuts off). Why I did

not do this a while back I don't know...

Good thing, because if I ever got a flat, all the work to get the spare built

would be useless as I'd have no way to remove those stupid capped nuts.

Duh.... :rant2: 2 years of owning the car and I am still figuring it out....

OK, I did this when I came home from work. These are absolutely the correct

wipers for the car. Need a matched pair. They match the factory ones exactly

and I will not use anything else if I can help it.

Been a while and now I am wondering if I should try them backwards.

My notes are a bit mixed up

Maybe it should be -

WW-2700 on the Passenger Side

WW-2601 on the Driver Side

I did not try this orientation, just assumed the 27" one would go on the

driver side.

LH would be driver and RH would be passenger, correct? If so Ford parts

says I should reverse them so I will try this. Could just be a user error...

Oh yep, this blade is very simple to get on and off - I love them.

However, something about the plastic connector is cut or molded

and just off a tiny tiny bit so as it won't seat properly/fully. I can't get the tabs

to snap in properly and securely even with a fair amount of force.

Very puzzling.

Back to the old blades, no problem. I have to look closely as

that opening in the connector may be just a tiny bit too small

and edging it with a knife would do the tricky. That clip is

attached permanently otherwise I'd just swap it with the working

blade.

Same issue with passenger and driver sides. This was in a

Motorcraft packaging/sleeve.

I bought those wipers from RockAuto and they fit my 2013 Fusion Energi just fine.

 

Position the passenger wiper at the maximum up position and lift the arm off of the window until it is pointed straight up into the air.

Squeeze the two plastic tabs together and rotate the blade clock-wise until it is horizontal.

Lift the blade off of the arm.

Take the new blade in your left hand with the top of the blade pointed to the right toward the front of the car.

Lower the blade onto the arm so the hole in the plastic goes over the tab at the top of the arm.

Rotate the blade counter-clockwise until the plastic tabs snap into place. I had to squeeze the tabs together to get them to snap into place.

So I purchased (from RockAuto) a set of wipers for my 2013 Fusion Hybrid.

They are:

WW-2700 (driver side)
WW-2601 (passenger side)

Came in standard Motorcraft packaging and part numbers seem exactly right.

They look exactly 100% the same as what is on the car, but for some

reason the connector end tip doesn't quite fit right - looks like a manufacturing

issue, just ever so slightly off. Can't use them.

Anybody seen this problem? I can return them, but stumped what to do?

I may buy a pair from Ford and see if they work.

I also have had sets from RockAuto and then came in a generic cardboard

package - and they were fine. Motorcraft name and sleeve - no good. I never

would have expected this issue....

No issues at all with this, could barely tell anything was done in my car.

I did clear out my stuff from center console, hardly anything was reset.

Yep, thanks. That is what I figured. My high quality socket does not seem very thick

and it fits the lug off the car, but I could not see where it was hitting the rim as I

put it on the car. So I need to go off to Sears and try the one you show.

Don't want to use the multi point socket from my regular Craftsman set either,

don't want to use anything other than the 6pt socket. Thanks.

I should be able to swap out the lugs myself if I have the right tool.

I could not seat my socket with a rubber mallet, that wasn't right either.

 

Yes, I use the 19mm each time - I guess the casing of the socket you're using is too "high quality" and thus too thick? I have had the same set of craftsman sockets for many years and fits OK.

And can anybody tell me why my high quality 19mm lug socket will not go

on the lug nuts while on the car? This should be the right size. The 21mm

fits and so does a 13/16" lug socket, but they are a bit too loose for me and

I won't turn them afraid I'll strip the lugs more than I already did.

19mm should be the right size, right?

This is what I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-SS413WP-Metric-ProtectorImpact/dp/B001JJBN4I

Just put these on my 2013 and just have a few hundred miles so far. Like then alot and

the car is much more at ease and mileage appears to be going up already.

Right now - Continental has a $70 rebate, so for a prices of $163 - $17.50 = ~$145 - great deal from Tire Rack.

Same technology on the LX20 my wife has on her SUV which is why I got them, they are still doing

very well @ 20k miles. So that sold me on these.

So on my 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium - specifically with the stock TItanium/Hybrid wheels....

I decided I should check the lug torque and/or test my wrench and socket to see if I could get

the lug nuts off or tighten them. Well it is very hard on that car, with what I have anyway, to

move those lug nuts (I used a 17mm socket and have a 13/16" one too). Didn't have to apply

too much force to get them to strip just a bit. So ouch....

Could not do much, and the lugs rounded a bit before I quit so I hopefully did not do too much

damage. I plan to order a full set of McGard chrome lugs (much better quality) and get

the dealer to replace them all. I have the Ford wheel locks on there already. I believe the

McGard part is 64012.

Can somebody tell me the correct size of the lugs? I found McGard M12 x 1.5", but the spare

lugs I measured seemed more like 1.25". The wheel lock specs say 1.50" and seem a bit

longer than the lugs. I think this may be partially why I had a hard time removing the existing

ones. Nut sure why I can't get a socket fully onto the lug. Works fine on the spare lugs off

the car. So I stripped them....

Size 1.5" will protrude just a bit like the wheel locks do now, but maybe this is good as it will

be easier to get off.

Open to other brands if anybody has experience.

Any suggestions /experience to remedy this? The stock lugs are close to flush with the rim.

Rim is pretty much this one here: http://bit.ly/1KWwYqP