smr2112

Make sure they align your car properly and that is part of the TSB for this (I had it done).

And they should not charge you for the alignment as they tried to do to me!

My car was fine afterwards, it was done well, but car is long gone now.

They are replacing the transmission seal to the engine and resealing it.

The robotic equipment at the factory was not doing this properly.

Contact Ford Warranty directly.

ESP Warranty 800-521-4144

If you had your oil changed at a Ford dealer while it was still in warranty, you might be able to claim that

it should have been caught by mechanic. That's how mine was found at about 1.5 years. Took a week

at the dealer to get parts and fix, but I never hard the issue again.

That should be enough to get Ford to cover it if you are out of warranty. Ask for the dealership

to ask Ford for a courtesy warranty repair and in particular if you can prove it was looked at and

nobody said anything, but should have caught it. Mine was mild seepage then they had to add

dye to the transmission, come back in 4-5 weeks and then that was the official time the problem

was noted - all within warranty time-frame.

I no longer own the car, but it's something that a competent Ford dealer can do. Also they

should realign your car as part of the repair process noticed in the bulletin.

At least Kia, with the Kia Niro sells a spare tire kit you can buy - that's smart. If you want it, fine pay for it

(maybe $280 I think), if you want to go without it, good luck.

It seem impractical this day and age to have to live without it. With all the recalls and other quirks,

I loved the car and mileage, but I am not a proud Subaru owner - spare tire included!

It was hard for me to drive around knowing my seat belts may not work, and for sure they

let me know that when I traded it in, took a big hit. Still sitting on some Ford dealers lot and not

selling. The Subaru dealer told me they could not/would not keep it because of that - and they were right.

If anybody happens to be in the Phila western suburbs, I have some spare parts, things

that you are welcome to for free.

At least 2 new sets of new wiper blades, and an extra remote key that just needs batteries - I bought

a 3rd one way back and never gave it in when I traded the car. Also extra oil filter for

DIYers.

Might have an extra set of floor mats.

Send me an IM.

At least with the newer Kia Niro, they sell an optional spare tire kit with rim. Would cost about $235.

I traded my Fusion Hybrid for a smaller 2017 iSubaru Impreza, with an actual spare tire. Traded the Ford

with open safety recalls and the Frankenspare and all....it did save me once and the other time

had to call for a flatbed.

I miss the hybrid for sure, but not all the warranty and tech quirks.

Just to be clear... Are some of you guys saying the OEM Goodyear LS-2 (mine FFH Hy Titanium) actually tires did better than the Conti PureContacts?

No you said OEM Michelins - what tire was that exactly and what model did it come on? Were they LLR?

My mileage went up 3-4 mpgs with the Continentals and overall great wet grip and braking. I inflated to 38 without issue

other than a nail once and then a sidewall bubble from a deep pothole. Which Tirerack's warranty paid for fully - amazing.

Just want to make sure we are talking about the same tire. md13ffhguy I think you'll be very happy with them.

I called 2 dealerships to confirm and indeed there is no fix for this yet. Best guess is Q2 of this year.

They are waiting on Ford to release parts and all we can do is wait. It does require parts, but I was

originally told (or somehow heard) that they would spray foam insulation into the wires to insulated

them. Not sure if this is part of the fix still.

Kind of sucks, but as much as I love the car, the recalls and constant quirks really got to me. Now

I am trading in for a non-Ford (2017 Subaru Impreza) as I want a smaller car. But take a major hit

in trade-in value because of the open recall. If there was a fix for it, it would be entirely different

problem and I could get the fair market value. Car has very low miles, new tires and is in perfect

shaped as the trade-in dealer said they'd sell it themselves if they could and I'd get $1500 more.

I am told that 1/4 of all cars on the road have some open safety recall. And even the Subaru dealer

who was totally straight was told by a wholesaler he called that anything that they buy now (alot of cars anyway)

have recalls. They just unload them at auctions or through less scrupulous mechanisms. Not sure if

this is a state law in PA or NJ for dealers, but seems like it. I know they can't sell a new car with an open recall.

Has anybody gotten fixed the recall for seatbelt tentioner wiring overheating?

Have you gotten a letter from Ford? -- I have not gotten a letter or a fix.

I am told as of this post, there is no fix for it - maybe June/July from Ford - wait

for the letter.

I was interested in trading in my car and I would take a major hit for it

because a dealership cannot legally or ethically sell a car with an

open safety recall that has no know fix.

This would cost me $1500-$2000 in trade in value as they'd have

to sell the car at auction. This is nuts and unfair, but wanted to ask

here before I bug the dealer. Car is clean as a whistle, low miles,

fully loaded, perfect condition - just want something different.

Working from home, want something smaller.

Yep, I confirm this more or less. I took some very thin and small pieces of foam packing, like 2"x3" or so and shoved it in the small

gap on the right side of console opening. The right vertical piece edge aside the console opening. I shoved them in with a putty knife

and this tightened things up a bit. I think we are talking about the same area.

The noise is not 100% gone, but is much better. The noise to me, appears to be highly temperature and definitely speed

related. If you move your body a bit while you grab the thing, that will change it.

How ridiculous this all is...right?

I have the same problem. I've found if I hold on to the middle console arm on the passenger side (does this make any sense?) then it goes away. That arm (there is one on each side of the middle console) that connects the center console up to the stereo area. Hopefully that made sense. But I think it has something to do with that. I am unsure how to make it stop buzzing though, the only way I can make it stop is if I hold onto that arm while it's happening.

It happens only at a certain RPM too just like others have said.

Yes, that was exactly my thinking and what I had hoped. Good idea as I have a full set of these

tools from taking apart my iPhones and Macs and they will be perfect.

I looked closely this morning and the space between the top of the switch and the trim

around it is fairly tight with no give. But I'll investigate further.

The power door lock switch on my 2013 FFH Titanium is not working. Some of the buttons do nothing and I need to replace it.

This part is shown below. I think this should be fairly easy to replace myself and would take weeks for dealer to get I'd think.

Who knows...

So if I replace it myself, is it that hard to pop it out? Can anybody give me a hint? Do I have to take out the entire door lock/handle

insert piece where the speaker is to release it from the back?

I probably won't attempt this unless I can see how to easily do it, the part is about $45 directly from Ford. I am sure double that

and not dealer covered as part of warranty (outside deductible) if they do it.

This is the part: http://ebay.to/2df2ho3

They owe you a loaner car for sure, will likely take a week to get parts and fix.

Drive the loaner car across the country!

Easy fix really and if done right, should not have an issue again.

What is the exact tire model you are referring to, I know Ford switched between Goodyear LS-2 and Michelin something.

The 3 tires in the CR review were Michelin Premier A/S, Continental PureContact and Pirelli P7 Cinturato Plus A/S

As I said, all did very well, similar specs and they gave the edge to the Pirelli as they actually got the rated miles

in their test. In general, the Michelins were about $40-$50 per tire more than the other two. Easy to price out

on TireRack.

Just to confuse things, I would also seriously consider the Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus.

About the same price and rating and I put these on an older car and it changed it dramatically.

I would choose these now even though I have the PureContacts on my 2013 FFH and love them.

The wet handling of both of these is dramatically better than the original Goodyear LS2s - yuck!

Consumer Reports gave the edge to the Pirellis because of treadwear being better.

Either way you won't go wrong.

The HVB being at -0- with an immediate ICE start should not be related to your issue, that sounds like something

draining the 12V. I do get this issue periodically and have no idea what is draining the HVB when I go into work.

Only happens once in a while - probably a fan or water pump (although I hear nothing running) and when I come

back it is at nearly -0- or nearly nothing. What is going on with this, but I am pretty sure is normal?

I had the battery saver 12V issue too over a year ago. This was fixed for me with a new top of the line Ford Max

12V battery and a reprogramming of cold weather charging. Never occurred after that. But yours sounds "parasitic"

for sure and the water under the seat is bizarre....

Are you absolutely sure your 12V was changed for a new one? The 12V batteries that came from the factory, the

originals, were absolute junk.

Does anybody (maybe one of the Energi owners out there) know if Ford has a recommended home

charging station, model, specs, etc. to do 220V-240V charging?

It seems there are alot of these out there, and didn't know how standard they are. My electrician

said would not be very hard to install in my house.

Thanks and that's what I'd assume. He told me the finance guy would be the one to ask and would explain it all.

I can't figure there is any ethical loan on the planet that can't be paid off at any time without penalty. I did say "ethical loan".

The seats in the new Platinum Fusion are very nice, if you can live with the light color material. Looks nice,

feels great, but will it stay that way?

I don't normally cross-post, but was at my dealer getting an oil change and speak 2 hours with my

former sales guy...he was so nice and open, I thought I would share this again.

So looking at getting a 2017 FFE (Platinum). The overall incentives and pricing are very aggressive. One incentive is based

on taking a Ford loan - non 0.0% rate. I had been planning to pay cash outright plus my trade, but for the extra

$500 or so, I'd take the loan and pay it off ASAP. I have another $750 personal offer from Ford, plus the dealers are

getting alot of incentives too.

If you are interested in anything plug-in (PHEV) or all electric like the Focus, there are alot of Ford incentives.

Plus a Federal tax credit of $4007 for the Energi and many states have rebates too. Pennsylvania has a $2000

(cash to you!) rebate, but there are only 250 of these for 2016, but many still remain - otherwise a $1000 rebate.

Not much for the hybrids, but if you plug it in, you can get a great deal!

When you figure that all in and take the incentives sends directly to you. That knocks the price of the $43k+ Ford

Fusion Energi Platinum, fully loaded down $10,000+ - which is great compared to what it was a few years ago.

Also if you factory order, incentives hold or can improve, but won't get worse. Don't think that was the case a few

years ago, but sales guy said it has always been that way.

The sales guy, who I bought my 2013 FFH from and met with gave me the full details of how pricing from Ford and

dealer incentives work. He was amazingly honest and alot of it I knew. He said car costs/pricing/profit is a a new

ball game over the past few year. Dealerships are no longer looking to maximize profit on every car, it's their

overall numbers that matter to get their holdbacks.

The $1000 SmartBonus Cash - or whatever they call it - the dealers get like 6 of them per time period and can pick 6

vehicles of their choice to assign them too - but once assigned, they stay with the car, cannot move of change and

even if the car is traded to another, it goes with the car and the dealer loses it. Interesting...

Looking at getting a 2017 FFE. The overall incentives and pricing are very aggressive. One incentive is based

on taking a Ford loan - non 0.0% rate. I had been planning to pay cash outright with my trade, but for the extra

$500 or so, I'd take the loan and pay it off ASAP.

Does anybody know for sure what restrictions there are with Ford Finance in paying off a loan? Does it have to

be at least a few months out? My sales guy was guessing 2-3 months, but he really didn't know. I'd have to figure

you could pay it off at anytime as most people won't do that. It's really just another sales tool.

If you are interested in anything plug-in (PHEV) or all electric like the Focus, there are alot of Ford incentives.

Plus a Federal tax credit of $4007 for the Energi and many states have rebates too. Pennsylvania has a $2000

(cash to you!) rebate, but there are only 250 of these for 2016, but many still remain - otherwise a $1000 rebate.

Not much for the hybrids, but if you plug it in, you can get a great deal.

When you figure that all in and take the incentives sends directly to you. That knows the price of the $43k Ford

Fusion Energi Platinum down $10,000+ - which is great compared to what it was a few years ago.

The sales guy, who I bought my 2013 FFH from and met with get me the full details of how pricing from Ford and

dealer incentives work. He was amazingly honest and alot of it I knew. He said car costs/pricing/profit is a a new

ball game over the past few year.

I have become a fan of this mount, no magnets, no suction cups, no window obstruction, highly adaptable to many different

cars and it mounts solid and doesn't move. There are a couple cheap variants on EBay too and

I bought a few to test out, very similar but only like $6 each. I got it, but haven't tested the EBay

variant in the Fusion yet. Works well on large iPhone 6s Plus.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NZIB5G

Ah ha! I'm not nuts or alone! I have this too on my 2013 FFH. It comes and goes, sometimes I don't hear

it for days and it's fairly mild, but annoying as heck. Sounds like it's come from inside the dash or behind

the glovebox or something, just where you describe - can't really tell. Amazing that this lives on in the

later year models. Would drive the dealer nuts and waste alot of my time trying to get them to fix it.

The risk of tearing apart the dash isn't worth it. It's definitely something inside (as opposed to just

a lose screw or piece of side plastic).

But today I was wondering if it is indeed coming from the rearview mirror somewhere and projecting downward???

It often sounds like it is coming from a slightly different places and as I leaned toward the mirror today, I thought

it was the culprit.

By the time I hear it and try and grab the spot to see if I can quiet it, it stops and it is very RPM sensitive.

Only at specific speed and RPMs as you say. It sounds like a "metalic cable" - buzzing slightly. We must

all have the same thing going on.

Probably not something we can fix, but stay tuned and if you have any other ideas, speak up.

Not sunglasses, that is easy to spot and fix.

Ford has some pretty amazing pricing, rebates and incentives now for (some of) the 2017s. Seems the more

higher end the car, the better the savings. Especially the Platinums if you can find them. Maybe would

go for an Energi now over the Hybrid.

Was considering a Trade-In of my 2017 if it makes sense, but being wiser now from

the TSBs and recalls of the 2017 (all of them fixed and car is great!) - I was wondering

what surprises await if I buy a 2017, or at least wait 6 months maybe?

Anybody have a list or know of known issues with the Energis and Hybrids already for 2017?

It's early in the model year, but I figured these would start showing up soon!

Yep and when my inside door handle snapped off and broke due to a poor design,

I was told "normal wear item" not covered by ESP! That was a bunch of crap...

You pay your money and you take your chances, but with the complexity of

that car, I think the ESP - bought from one of the cheaper sellers - is probably

a good deal,

Yea, almost same part as mine: BXT-99RT4-A

(replaced by dealer under warranty May 2015 for a 2013 model FFH).

So the Max thing I am sure is just for marketing/advertising/parts sales. You should be fine

The original part number on the 2013s as they came out of the factory was either BXT-96R-500 or BXT-96R-590

Ford's parts site is still showing both new/old ones available, but I doubt they sell it. I don't know really

if it was the original batch of batteries that was bad, or the design of the battery - or both.