md40022

Ended up being the throttle body. Another person who I was talking to about the symptom immediately knew that as the solution. It was a 10 minute change out, super easy.

actually in searching these symptoms it's looking like people say this could be a Throttle Body issue....

Hoping someone can help me with this.... 2010 Hybrid. 135k miles. I live in the Chicago area, it's been getting a little chilly overnight - may or may not factor into the problem. Car was sitting since 5pm the previous night. Went to start the car for work this morning, about 7:30am. It started in EV mode. Everything seemed fine. I turned the defroster on while still in park. Upon doing this the gas engine kicks on and immediately gives me a wrench icon on the left side of the dash. Not the check engine light, but this wrench icon thing. Engine sounds very rumbly at this point too. I pop the hood and see a fair amount of shaking and vibration from the engine. Far more than normal. I need to get to work though and I only work 3 miles away, so I give it a shot. No pickup from the car at all. Acceleration is very very minimal and it seems to literally top out at about 40 mph. The car is in ICE mode while I'm driving. However, when I come to stop signs and the EV kicks in I notice the EV battery meter at maybe 10% of life At this point I go back home and call in sick to work. Here's the goofy part though, I shut the car off for maybe 3 minutes while I called in sick. Upon starting it a 2nd time it started up fine. The wrench icon is gone. The engine isn't rumbling. I drove it around the block a few times and it seems back to normal. EV battery gauge is back up to about 50%. Acceleration is back to normal. ICE sounds normal again. Since then, I've started the car a 3rd time and again all seemed normal though I didn't drive it at all this time. I hate chalking this up as a fluke and not taking action, because with winter coming I know this will bite me. My initial thoughts, with having very minimal knowledge of a hybrid system, are the issue seems to be clear to the ICE. I suspect the lack of acceleration and the fact that I was topping out at 40mph would be from the EV (which normally does top out at that speed, roughly) to be related to the ICE struggling and the EV system carrying the entire weight. This also might be why the EV battery was virtually drained by the time I got back home from my attempt to get to work. Obviously the rumbling and shaking from the ICE would again indicate an ICE issue..... Could this be the 12v battery failing? Because again, the problem started when I flipped the defroster on causing the car to switch from EV to ICE this morning. Within seconds of flipping the defroster on is when the wrench icon popped up and when the ICE kicked on I immediately heard the rumbling. Could the car have initially started in EV mode, then when switching to ICE the 12v battery wasn't able to do it's thing? I only bring that up as an idea because on my 2nd and 3rd starts, now that the battery maybe got charged up a bit, all seems fine. Battery is straight from the dealership and was installed in August of 2021, so it's just over 2 years old. I did put a meter on the battery and it shows 12.3v with the car off and 14.0v with it on, though this isn't at a cold start anymore though so I know those numbers can be misleading. And my brain only went the battery route due to the fact that the problem was only at a cold start when the ICE first kicked over. 25 months seems like a short life for a battery though (albeit, Chicago winters can be brutal)........ I might not even be in the ballpark though with the battery idea lol Any thoughts?

My suggestion would be to download ForScan and pull the codes. Or take it to one of those parts stores that offer free code reading. Looking back at my situation, I wish I had done that earlier but since ALLLLLLL symptoms really seemed to point to the front of the car based on the slipping feel and the clunk I proceeded to make some failed repair attempts when reading the codes would have gotten me to a resolution faster. The one thing on your end that doesn't line up with me though is you said your clink noise is coming from the rear of the car. My clunk noise was coming from under the hood, which is why I initially thought it was the master cylinder. Turns out that clunk was the ABS module that is under the hood and it was just going haywire based on the ABS codes being thrown by a rear speed sensor and tone wheel. If your ABS module was acting goofy you wouldn't be getting the clunk from the rear of the car. That's definitely a difference that I see in your issue, though getting the ABS codes read by a scanner I would say needs to be your first step for sure ---- because if you do find anything at all related to speed sensors or tone rings, that is most likely your issue.

Replaced the driver's side rear tone wheel and speed sensor ----- problem seems to be completely solved. It's been 1 full week since the repair and all has been good.

For what it's worth, the ABS Module Test offered on the ForScan software does produce "no problems found"...... I don't know exactly what is being tested there, but I'm just really hoping to avoid having to replace that module haha.

This is incredibly helpful information in confirming the issue to be with the ABS module (or something triggering the ABS such as the speed sensor and tone wheel). This is kind of where my thinking was at this point as well, granted it was through process of elimination haha, but hearing you say this has me thinking I'm hopefully on the right track. In your opinion, do you think I'm at risk of causing more damage to something else if I drive with things "as is" for the next week or so before I can get it back in to the mechanic? I'm really hoping the issue isn't the module itself, because that looks to be a major $$$$$ repair. I guess we'll know more once I can get this tone wheel issue resolved.

tz7797... I know it's a few years after the fact. Not sure if you still check the forum, but was this ever solved? If so, what was the problem and fix? I am having a very similar issue if you look at my thread. I have not replaced a rear wheel hub or sensor like you had, but I am getting a C0036 code (rear tone wheel / speed sensor issue) and I am also getting that jerking sensation or slipping feel just as coming to a complete stop. The jerk or slip feels like it's coming from the front of the car (area of the ABS Module), but the code I'm getting is a rear wheel sensor. Nobody seems to have a firm grasp on what is happening. That's why I'm wondering if you ever found a fix or not? Please let me know because I'm at a total loss right now.

Sorry for the lengthy post, but I am perplexed with my current issue and could really use some opinions. Here are all of the details of my problem... 2010 Fusion Hybrid. 130k miles. I live in the Chicago area. Problem first occurred right around Xmas. I am driving thru the grocery store parking lot and as I am coming to a complete stop (around 5-10mph) the car feels like it "slips" for just a split second. The feeling is as if I hit a tiny patch of ice and the brakes just had a little hiccup or slip on an ice patch. It only happened for a very split second and as it happened the ABS, Traction Control, and Service Advancetrac lights all came up on the dashboard. It was a cold, nasty night out and I attributed the issue to hitting a patch of ice. As I continued to drive, the 3 warning lights all went away and everything seemed fine. Same problem occurs about a week later. Again, it's winter time in Chicago so I don't make a big deal about it. Assume it's just bad road conditions. Same problem occurs again a few days later. At this point, I get concerned. I check my brake fluid reservoir and I find it empty. I add brake fluid, but the issue remains. I call a friend of mine who does some mechanic work on the side and he tells me if I was empty at the brake reservoir, I most likely have air in my brake lines. He suggests we bleed the system. We do a brake bleed and he tells me there is a TON of air in the in system. During the bleed, we do not see any signs of a fluid leak at the calipers. It's probably mid January when we do this. After the brake bleed things actually seem good for a week or so. After about a week though, the problem returns and it returns more aggressively. Now, in addition to that "slipping" feel I am also getting a little clunking or knocking noise from under the hood. When it returns, on cold days it seems to be happening at 50% of my stops - always in the 5mph-10mph range just before a complete stop. Sometimes I get EVERYTHING happening (the slip feel, the clunk noise, and the 3 dash board lights) and other times I just get the 3 dash lights or I just get the slip feel and clunk sound. The slip feel and the clunk sound seem to be hand in hand at this point. The 3 dash lights sometimes come on, other times they don't. Again, it's VERY frequent when its very cold out. On nicer days though, it doesn't occur all that often. Based on the clunk from under the hood, we decide to replace the master cylinder. It's maybe 2 weeks ago when we do this. We also decide to replace the front pads, rotors and calipers. They visually looked okay, but being that there had some age on them and he was only charging for parts, we decided to change them along with the master cylinder. After changing everything out, we again bled the system.... No change what so ever though. Exact same issue remained. At this point, the guy who was doing the work made the realization that on this car you have to use a scan tool to specifically bleed the ABS system. He was unaware of that, so he never bled the ABS. I have no idea if this is contributing to the issue or not, but he starts to wonder if air is in the ABS could that be messing with valves within the ABS module and be the cause of the clunking noise under the hood. This morning I bring it to a professional mechanic. The mechanic puts his scanner on it and says there are multiple ABS codes being thrown, but knowing that other parties had their hands on the car in replacing the BC and playing with the brake lines he said he doesn't want to put any stock into any codes yet and he prefers to reset everything and see what returns. The one code that he did say stood out to him though was C0036, which is an issue with the drivers side rear tone wheel and ABS speed sensor. He said if there was an issue from a tone wheel or speed sensor if could be causing all kinds of insanity from the ABS. He inspects and reports the tone wheel is not broken or cracked, but it is filthy and packed with mud. He cleans up the tone wheel. He takes it for a 10 minute test drive and says all is good. I ask them if bleeding the ABS system is something that he should do. His response is everything just drove great on his test run so let's see what happens - it might just be a dirty sensor and tone wheel. I pick the car up a few hours ago and at first all seemed okay (it was a nice day today), but the same issue did return. All the symptoms mentioned above are still present. I hooked ForScan up to it a few minutes ago and the only ABS code being shown is C0036 (rear drivers side tone wheel again). I'm at a loss at this point. I will be going back to the mechanic obviously, but that might end up being a week away still since I really need the car for these next few days. There are a few things that still don't seem to be adding up here still though. Being dry on brake fluid when I first checked things is still something that remains unexplained. Nobody has seen any signs of a leak anywhere - so that remains a mystery. Although, fluid levels seems to be holding ever since then. The ABS having never been bled remains of major concern to me because an air pocket messing with a valve within the ABS/HCU module (clunking noise) sure sounds practical, but at the same time there have been PLENTY of instances when I get this slipping feel and the clunk noise where the dash lights never come on and I'm kind of of the opinion that the speed sensor failure triggering the ABS and Traction Control would only be when the dash lights come on and the dash lights don't always come on when the issue occurs. And even if I do have air in my ABS system and my brake fluid did magically go dry a month or two ago, did my rear tone wheel malfunction just coincidentally happen at the same time??? Something just doesn't seem to be adding up through all of this. And the wild card in all of this is in everything I read, the ABS / HCU module in the 2010 Fusion seems to really be problematic and could end up being the root cause of everything I suppose? I'm still a week away from being able to get back to the mechanic so in the meantime does anyone have any opinions on this? For what it's worth, the brakes feel fine up until when the problem occurs. The pedal isn't spongy, I dont feel like it's losing pressure. Stopping feels absolutely fine until that 5mph-10mph range at which point I get that little hiccup or slip along with the clunk... and maybe the 3 dash lights coming up. I'm at a loss!!