Mark J
Fusion Hybrid Member-
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About Mark J
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FFH, I wouldn't change it unless it becomes severely restricted, supposedly the dealer can test for this, or like in my case, the maf sensor signed off. As in my post above, cost of maf sensor v entire assembly not that huge. If you're somewhat handy you can do it yourself. I can give you the part numbers for any spare parts such as pins, bolts, etc you might want to have on hand. Several items such as external ambient temp sensor, any headlight repairs can be accessed with the bumper cover removed. MeeLee, my air filter is a completely sealed box, you cannot replace just the filter.
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FFHinVA: Sorry I haven't been on here in a while. It's a complete airbox with filter and maf sensor. You reuse a couple of the upper parts only. Bought mine from Levittown Ford Parts. They have pictures of it, sort of. I believe that possibly there may be a procedure that determines if the air filter has too much air flow restriction. Possibly a code is set and it gets traced back to the filter. Not 100% on this info, have seen mention of it elsewhere. I would think that unless it gets damaged, or you're living in dirt heaven, it'll probably go as long as the car lasts.
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Huge Repair Bill on Fusion Hybrid ABS Light
Mark J replied to CAI's topic in 2010-2012 Fusion Hybrid
Forgot to mention, this recall has been around for a quite a while. Parts availability holding it up apparently. -
Huge Repair Bill on Fusion Hybrid ABS Light
Mark J replied to CAI's topic in 2010-2012 Fusion Hybrid
I have two 2010 Fusion's, gas V6 SEL and Hybrid. There is a current recall for the gas SEL concerning the HCU. Recall number 19S54 HCU valve concern(17X29). Has to due with a chemical reaction between DOT3 brake fluid and the zinc plating inside the unit, possibly gelling up internal parts causing them to stick open, resulting in longer brake pedal travel increasing required distance to stop. Does not result in loss of braking function. The dealer will test the unit for correct operation and replace if needed. If good, system flushed and DOT4 fluid will be put in. My appt is next week. This recall has been around for a quite a while. Parts availability holding it up apparently. Not sure if Hybrid uses same part numbers for the abs hydraulic control system. -
I have a post on here about changing this part, mine was done due to the maf sensor acting up. Not much more to buy the entire unit v just the sensor.
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BH6Z-9600-AA is for some Sport models and Lincoln MKZ. BH6Z-9600-B fits 2010, 11 and 12 Hybrids. Checked on Levittown Ford site where I generally buy my oem parts. Sometimes the prefixes and suffixes change in the part numbers, but are still correct parts, whatever reason, engineering, etc.
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2010 hybrid part identification help
Mark J replied to Michael Banks's topic in 2010-2012 Fusion Hybrid
I did check through my service cd, couldn't find it. Could be hidden in there somewhere, but I think the auto parts store is route to go. -
2010 hybrid part identification help
Mark J replied to Michael Banks's topic in 2010-2012 Fusion Hybrid
I looked at mine, looks like just a ground strap. Stop by a NAPA or other parts store, find something similar length and gauge. -
Yes, I replaced it not for maintenance, but due to a wonky acting ill behaving maf sensor. First maf I ever had to replace. The price of the maf with gasket vs the whole airbox w/included maf was like 30 bucks or so difference. Car has about 110k on the meter. Removing the bumper cover is the route to go. Then it's all sitting there, easy to work top and bottom. Thought I would try the service manual way, hoping I could sneak it out. Still had to pull cover end back anyway. The various size pins, brackets etc are spare parts I've needed and collected over time. I have two 2010 Fusions, SEL and this Hybrid.
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I just did this replacement for my 10 Hybrid. The service cd says to remove driver's wheel, fender liner, maf sensor plug, there's a couple of clamps on the air intake plumbing, small nut holding I think the resonator, remove the quick connects holding the vent tube, there is a wire loom that is connected to the air box via a push connector, remove the three nuts holding the air box, I removed the air intake snorkel(couple of rubber clips)and then remove through the bottom. The wire loom gets in the way a bit especially with the upper nut. Sounds easy enough, however it's not really that way. If you are a contortionist you may be able to get your hands up in there to get the nuts loose, two aren't awfully bad, the third up towards the front is the troublemaker, can't see it. The easier way, if you are familiar or can do it, is to totally remove the bumper cover, or at least enough to open up the driver side and get to it that way, especially that third nut, you can see it if cover pulled back. I used the cover pulled back method, took an extra set of hands to hold open. Pulling the side back involves a lot less removals then the whole cover. If remove entire bumper cover you can do the whole job yourself. You can find bumper cover removal videos online, sometimes the places that sell replacement headlights also have videos. It's really not that hard to do, bunch of screws, few nuts and pushpins. If you're going to go the bumper cover removal route, i would make sure to get a pair of the side retainers, these are the pieces where the bumper cover sides snap into. There's a small prong on the ends which could break, I've had it happen. They're cheap, eleven bucks or so at the local dealer I got a great price on the air box from Levittown Ford auto parts division. I have bought quite a few items from them over the years, their discounts are pretty good. Some items from my local dealer. Also make sure you have a supply of replacement fender liner pins and related items if you go the bumper cover removal route. You will probably break some while removing them. You can find the part numbers on any Ford part seller website, then search around. Took me about two hours, I'm pretty slow.
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Mark J started following 2010 - 2012 Fusion Hybrid High Voltage Battery TSB at 10 Years of Age
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Has anyone who has done the Forscan reset also taken their car in for the tsb work? Anyone know specifically what other updating is done by the dealer? If the Forscan reset could maybe or not cause an issue with the tsb, is it possible to reset back to the setting that was originally there thus rendering the ev mode back to it's pre - Forscan uselessness?