Bobo

Was driving the other night and got a 'service advancetrac' warning on my 2015 Fusion Hybrid SE. Then the 'hill assist not available' warning, and then the traction control light, stability light, and ABS lights came on (oh, and the airbag light). So I came home and did my due diligence online. Looks like wheel speed sensors have issues. I drove up to autozone and used their tool to scan. Came back with: invalid signal for right and left front wheel speed sensors Vacuum supply - signal plausibility failure Battery Voltage -Circuit voltage below threshold. Right front wheel speed sensor - signal erratic Right front wheel speed sensor - mechanical failures So I brought it home, popped the wheels off and did a couple of things. 1. I read about a service bulletin regarding the wheel speed sensor wiring having corrosion issues. So I took off all the tape and examined the wires. Everything looks fine, no breaches. 2. Then, after having a BITCH of a time getting the wheel speed sensors unhooked from their respective harnesses (wtf designed these harnesses? I'd LOVE his phone number!) I swapped out the drivers side wheel speed sensor with the passenger side. I figure, I'd take it back to the zone, check it again, and if the right and left codes had switched, it would tell me if i had a bad sensor. Had it scanned again, and had the SAME report, with the exception of one NEW item Right front tone wheel - mechanical failure Okay. So there's something I didn't mention. When I was removing the wheel speed sensor from the right front wheel, I noticed some tulle, or fishnet, or some kind of light fabric kinda bound up around the sensor. I unwrapped it and tossed it aside, figuring it's just wrapped around the sensor, and that shouldn't hurt it. But then I started thinking, what if that little piece of fabric is only a PART of the fabric I picked up somewhere. Might some of it have gotten pulled into the rotor/hub area? Could a piece of this fabric be 'gumming up the works' where the tone wheel and the wheel sensor meet? So that's where I'm at! What I'm wondering is, just how different are these hybrids from their non-hybrid counterparts in this area? I do not have the service manual for this car, so I don't want to screw up anything. I cannot see behind the rotor shield to look in there. I have a boroscope, but even it won't fit. Can I remove the caliper just like I would on any other vehicle and gain access to at least SEE behind that rotor shield? These things having regen braking and all, I don't know if there's something I don't know about that might screw it up. Also, my brake pads look GREAT considering the car has 130k on it!!! Gotta love that regen braking! Any help or pointers you guys could give would be fantastic! Edit: Well, I just realized the driver side and passenger side sensors are different. Probably why there's a tone ring failure now.... I'm assuming that even if I switch them back and the tone ring is working again, that I'll not know it because the code will still be there. I'm guessing the only real option I have now is to get to the tone ring to examine it.

Ok, so I probably should have added this, but I didn't really recall it until your post! JUST BEFORE the issue happened, I had driven over two 'rough spots' on the interstate. I would have normally driven around these spots, but it was dark and I didn't see them in time. It was only moments after I drove over these spots that I noticed the light and the accompanying symptoms. But my symptoms weren't a LACK of braking in regen mode. My problem was 'TOO MUCH' braking in regen. It was weird. Regen braking was wanting to stop the car quickly, which is uncharacteristic of what I've experienced in this car. Actually, as I continued to push the brake pedal further into conventional brake mode, the braking actually got LIGHTER for a moment before eventually getting heavier and stopping the car. I could also feel it when I let OFF the brake. When I would let off the brake, I could feel a short pulse of heavy braking as the brake pedal passed through the regen range as it came back to resting position.

I saw one other post about this, but there was no resolution there so... Last night, my wrench light came on, along with the 'see manual' message. The car still drove fine, but DID exhibit some weird behavior. When I would lightly tap the brakes, the regen braking wanted to bring the car to a quick stop. Normally, I can tap the brakes gently, and the regen thing will go to work, braking the car in the process, but not to the point of SLOWING THE CAR as if I'm trying to avoid collision. I could not use regen braking last night on the way home. I had to wait until it was time to stop before pressing the brake. This morning, the wrench light was gone and the car seems to be driving normally. I did check the engine coolant and the inverter coolant and they are both riding the min lines. I will add coolant today. Could a temporary overheat problem have caused this symptom? Also, for the last week or so, the low tire pressure light has been on. I will make sure to take care of that today as well. Oh, and I don't know if this could have anything to do with it, but the other day, I had to slam on the brakes to avoid hitting some shmuck who decided to stop on a dime for no apparent reason. I've only had to quickly apply the brakes in this car a handful of times, and each time, it didn't feel like a regular ICE car. It feels more like it's grabbing. Not 'locking up' per se. But grabbing. A little thump can always be heard when QUICKLY applying the brakes. AFAIK, this could be normal. And I hope it is. ----edit----- It might be helpful to describe the environment when the issue occured. Thanks Murphy for reminding me of this! I was driving on the interstate, at about 75mph or so when this happened. It had been raining also so the roads were a little wet. JUST BEFORE I noticed the wrench light, I had driven over two rough patches on the highway. -------------- Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. I did search. I found one thread that pretty much exactly described the symptoms I experienced, but it only had a couple of posts. In that thread, the OP said the problem came back after 10 minutes. I just drove it up to the store and back, so... I'm gonna go get some coolant and fix the PSI thing and then take it back out on the highway to see if it the issue recurs at speed.

Would love to know if you ever pinpointed the issue. My car had the exact same symptoms last night. The light is gone this morning, and my OBDII tool doesn't show any fault codes. I would think a wrench light would log a fault code.

Thanks! Mine hasn't made any noise either. I was just kinda taken aback when I saw this!

Thanks so much! You are correct. As it turns out, my car was built in February of 2015. Now to try to find out if this means I have a potentially screwy transmission, or not....

So I recently found 2gfusions.net. Last year, I installed an alpine head unit in the little cubby under the factory stereo in my 2015 Fusion Hybrid SE, thinking that I would be unable to add an amp to the factory head (I tried, using passive line out converters, and it sounded just terrible). Anyway, over at this other site, there was an article about it being possible to reprogram the ACM (audio control module I'm guessing?) to make the speakers output line-level instead of speaker-level. This post mentions using something called Forscan, which I later found out is an unauthorized piece of software designed to basically be a reverse engineering of Ford's own IDS (two things I know NOTHING about). The post goes into detail about how to reprogram the ACM using a compatible device to connect to the car's OBDII port (or whatever that's called). I DID buy an OBDII dongle last year, and it DOES have the little switch on it that allows it to read the MSCAN bus. But when I looked at the hex codes on my fusion hybrid, they did not match what the OP was saying I should see. I'm assuming the hybrid is a different beast and is programmed differently. Of course, over there, 99% of the people posting have non-hybrid fusions, so none of them are any help. Has anyone over here ever heard of someone being able to "reprogram" their fusion hybrid to have line-level outputs from the factory stereo? I'd LOVE to have all the steering wheel controls and voice commands available to me and still have great sounding tunes! BTW, here's the link to the thread over at 2gfusions that I was looking at. Again, FAIR WARNING, the numbers shown in this thread do NOT pertain to the hybrids apparently. http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=3704

So I bought a 2015 FFH SE last year. So far, it's been GREAT! I LOVE IT! I was just perusing the forums here for the first time in a few months and noticed the post regarding the reliability of a 2013 FFH. I saw that someone had mentioned TSB (17-0039) and said that it affected 2013-2015 depending on the mfg date of the car. I went to the http://www.etis.ford.com/ site and entered my vehicle's VIN hoping to find the build date. It did not. It DID present me with a list of two issues (the airbags and the steering wheel) but nothing about the transmission. How do I know if my car has a potentially vulnerable tranny? I've searched for 'how to find my vehicle build date' and have so far found 3 links that are unreliable and ZERO links that tell me how to find my build date. Also, how do I KNOW what the build-date cutoff is?

Thanks! So the stock alternator should be sufficient for a 300 watt amp then?

Okay, so I've got a new FFH which I love. I'm ready to upgrade the sound system. I have the SE, no no fancy Sony system. I've ordered 4 speakers. 2 infinity reference component speakers for the front and two infinity kappa two-ways for the back. I already have a Rockford Fosgate 4 chan amp that would be perfect for it. It is a 300 watt amp (75 watts rms each speaker which is exactly what they are all rated for at 2 ohms). Anyway, just wondering if there's anything I need to be mindful of in regards to this being a hybrid? Would a 300 watt amp overtax the system in any way?

Thanks. Drove it again today. I think I'm overthinking it. It did rev higher a couple of times today, but I just backed off the pedal a little and it settled back down. I think there might just be a slight difference in vibration feedback from the 2014 to the 2015. The 2014 didn't seem to vibrate as much. With our older Focus, I had to service the motor mounts at 70k and they were already needing another replacement at 110k. I'm keeping it. It's got 15k/2yrs left on the factory powertrain warranty and longer on the battery. Personally, I'm really digging the CVT for calm city driving.

I bought a 2014 FFH S on Carvana a couple of weeks ago. I drove the car for the trial period and liked it so much I returned it and bought a 2015 FFH SE instead. I like it, but it seems to drive differently that the 2014, and I'm concerned. The main difference is how high the engine revs when accelerating from a dead stop. In the 2014, when the ICE kicked in, it would drive the car at a lower rpm, unless I really dug into the pedal, then it would do it's typical CVT rev thing, and find it's 'ratio' or whatever. The newer 2015 does the same thing, but not always. Sometimes, when I'm starting out from a dead stop, when the ICE comes on, it revs MUCH higher. Even if I'm NOT digging into the gas pedal. Today, for the first time, I heard it do both. It started in very low rpm, which was fine because I was really light on the pedal at the time. Then, out of the blue, it revved up to a higher rpm and stayed there. Almost as if it had downshifted! It did this with no change on the pedal pressure from me. In short, it seems to be 'slipping out of gear'. I mean, I know it doesn't HAVE any 'gears', but that's the only way I can describe it. But I know that this is how a person might also describe normal operating behavior of a CVT too, which is frustrating! lol! Maybe a better way would be to say, this CVT sometimes SOUNDS like I'm really digging into the gas pedal when I'm not. The other FFH that I drove for a week, never did this that I noticed. If I stayed out of the gas pedal and drove it gingerly, it would never rev like this. Is there anything that would make a 2014 drive any differently than a 2015? Has anyone had or reported this kind of behavior? And what seems more like normal behavior? The higher revving at low speeds or the lower rpms at low speeds? I preferred the 2014 that kept at a low rpm until I asked for more. I'm hoping someone can shed some light before Tuesday, which is the last day I have to return this car to Carvana.

I've watched some videos on how to drive them. Watched a video the other day where a guy was taking his out 'hypermiling', and he pointed out techniques that he used to really extend the mileage as much as possible. Interesting, and yes, very cool that it's THERE to utilize and maximize, but a person can also just get in and drive without needing to know how to use it right away. I like that idea. Six months ago, I didn't know about these Ford hybrids, and now they're one of the top choices on my list. I like the idea of one of these super-low-mileage Fusions for less than 10 grand, but there's also an 06 Escape for like 8 grand that only has 50k on it right around the corner. It's really nice having a way to haul something when you need to! This car is gonna be replacing a Focus wagon which is being totalled WAY too early. It's an 05 but only has 100k miles on it. Anyway, insurance is giving me 4500 on it and I figure I'd finally pull the trigger on a domestic electric/hybrid. Will be nice giving the finger to the gas stations for a change.

I've seen several very low mileage 2010 hybrid fusions online. Will the LACK of use over the years cause any problems with the batteries? A couple of these cars have south of 20k miles on them and look cherry for less than 10k. Just thought I'd ask before snagging one of them. I've been looking at these and the escapes (and the volts honestly). The price on these though is pretty good. And frankly, the fact that they are using these motors in NYC taxis kinda says a lot.