hikyuuri

I think the tweeters in my 2014 FFH with the Sony 12 speaker system are not happy. Before I go and rip the doors apart (which I still need to figure out how to properly do), does anyone know the specs of the speakers? Specifically: 1. Size 2. Wattage 3. Ohm rating To be clear, I don't want to replace a the entire audio system (amps), just the speakers. The way I figure it, if I am already ripping the doors apart to replace the tweeters, I might as well do the mids in the door also. If anyone has any recommendations, I'm all ears.

Old thread, but wanted to add my notes to it. There is also two connectors on either side of the Driver Side headlight assembly. These connectors are not accessible without removing the front bumper cover. This is the "sense" wire for detecting if the hood is open or not. If the circuit is "open", the car counts that as the hood is open. If one or both of these connectors are not connected, or not connected securely, then the car will read that as the hood being open, even if it is fully latched. Source: When replacing my headlights with LEDs, I forgot to attach this cable. I didn't even notice until I went to turn the car on and it said the hood was opened. After ripping the front bumper cover off, I realized I left these disconnected. Connecting them fixed the issue.

I am installing heated wiper blades on my 2014 FFH Titanium. I needed to find an always-on power point under the hood for the wiper's control module (the control module automatically tuns the heated blades on when the 12V rail is above 13.5V and outside temp is below 35). While looking at my options, I noticed a set of high-amperage bus fuses (likely wrong terminology) under the fuse box. In my case, there is a 175A fuse (likely the supply from the battery and the DC/DC converter), two 50A fuses, and a 125A fuse. There is a 4th position that is not fused, and this is what the red wire to the fuse box (jumper cable point) connects to. My question is, what do these fuses each power? Like I said, I am guessing the 175A fuse is the feed from the battery and DC/DC converter in the trunk, but there are 3 other high amp fuses there also. I ended up putting the power wire for my new wiper module under the same nut as the 125A fuse (the control module has its own 10A fuse), and I did use a proper ring connector with heatshrink. At this point, I'm just curious what these go to.

Little bit of a side question, but still on topic. Which relay controls the power to the plugs? They clearly turn off at some point, and since each 12v outlet has its own 20A fuse, in theory if all 3 were heavily loaded that is 60A. I'm just curious which relay handles that?

Today, while driving home, my brakes did something really weird. I would tap them softly, like I usually do to slightly slow down, and at first it felt normal, but then the regen braking maxed itself out, even though I did not change pressure on the pedal at all. From that point on, even just tapping the pedal causes the car to lurch forward as the regen braking maxes out. This made going down a hill very difficult, because every time I even tapped the brake, it maxed out the regen braking slowing me down drastically. I had to "pump" the brakes by just tapping them to prevent me from coming to a quick stop. Strangely, after turning the car off for about an hour to eat and starting it back up, the issue was gone for about 10 miles, then came back same as before. Both times, there was no warning tone (either the standard ding or the critical ding), just the orange wrench on the left screen and the "See Manual" message. I know its regen braking and not service brakes because I have a scan gauge, and was able to watch my current to the battery spike to about 120A just tapping the brake. There was no lower current about at 55 mph, no matter how softly I tapped the brake. If the brake lights came on, I was max regen braking. I'm going to get it to the dealership ASAP, but was wondering if anyone else had experienced anything like this before. I'm a little worried about driving it on the interstate if every time I even tap my brakes, its going to cause my car to nose dive with the amount of regen braking force it applies.

Car is in the shop right now for a few things. Asked them to test the 12V battery and charging system while they had it. I'll see what they say when I pick it up. I figured it was just the battery, just seemed odd that even with the car running the voltage dropped below the 14v I'm used to seeing.

Old topic, I know, but wanted to add to it. I never really paid attention to it before, just attributed it to tire slippage, or just how the system handles transitioning from the regen braking to the service brakes as speed decreases. However, I experience the exact same sensation in my 2014 FFH. I have to make a right hand turn at the bottom of a hill every day to get home from work. The hill is long enough that I can coast and achieve 50MPH, though most of the time, I stick around 40 due to the turn (woo, free energy for the battery!). Usually, I achieve a 100% brake score on this hill as I have really timed it out on when I have to brake and how hard I have to break. By the time I enter the right turn lane, I am going around 30MPH, and when I make the turn I am usually somewhere between 5mph and 15mph (weather depending and the mood I am in). Quite often, I will feel the car lurch forward as if the brakes went out, then suddenly brakes will return just a fraction of a second later. Since I didn't actually come to a full stop, I don't get a brake score, but I know it would be quite high (easily above 90%). There are no potholes, manholes, or anything else on this turn. We live in the middle of the country, so there are not even curbs, let alone manhole covers. Just nice, fresh, smooth asphalt. This happens basically any weather (I live in MN, so I get all the extremes), with any cargo weight, and basically any battery charge (except when it is full, in which case the service brakes are already engaged). I get the feeling its something about how the car is trying to transition from the regen braking to the service brakes in the middle of the turn. I *sometimes*, though extremely rarely, get the same sensation when going down a long hill and the car suddenly transitions from regen to service brakes due to the battery being fully charged (around 70 on the SoC). I have never heard the ABS kick in (you can usually hear the ABS pump whining when it is actually being used), so I don't think its an ABS issue on its own, but something with the transition between regen and service brakes. At this point, I just expect it to happen, so I always counter it by over braking during my turns. I have been driving the car for 3 years now, and of all the quirks, this is definitely annoying, but something I have trained myself to expect and work around.

I'm pretty sure my 12V battery is shot because when I turn the car off, the voltage drops down to 11.8 almost instantly, even before I open the door to exit. However, I noticed today during my commute that the voltage also seems low when driving. I have a scanguage in my car. Most of the time, it shows between 14.0 and 14.5 volts when driving. But lately, under certain conditions, it drops as low as 13.5v, even when the vehicle is running. I'm wondering if this is possibly the root cause of my 12V battery failing due to it not being charged properly. Before anyone asks, those "certain conditions" are: 1. Max AC (so HVAC fan on high) 2. Cooled driver and passenger seats 3. Headlights a. On - 13.5 thru 13.7v b. Off - 13.7 thru 13.9v 4. Engine a. On - 13.6 thru 13.8v b. Off - 13.7 thru 13.9v Obviously, it is expected voltage to drop as load increases (to some extent), but at the same time, I feel that the DC to DC converter should be capable of easily delivering the amperage and voltage under these "standard" loads. The Power display on the dash only shows about a 1/4 to 5/8 load (not sure how accurate this gauge is, or what its "range" is). What really surprises me is that when the engine is running, my voltage drops a measurable amount. I expect there to be a bit more of a power draw with the engine running (fuel pump, coolant pump, etc), but seeing a measurable voltage drop surprises me. I can add pictures/video if people want. Basically, I'm hesitant to get a new 12V battery if I am experiencing a charging issue. Other than a dealer visit, does anyone know a way to test this? What are the limits of the DC to DC converter? Is it possible that this is truly pushing it somehow? Would the DC to DC converter be covered under the hybrid drive train warranty? Finally, before anyone tells me what I already know, 13.5v is still higher than the 12.6v "ideal" voltage of the battery, so some charging could still be occurring. My concern though is the 1v drop from the charging system under a factory stock load. I would expect power drops like this if I was running some aftermarket stuff (amps, extra lights, excessive 12v accessories), but again the power gauge shows a low draw on the bar.

Hello, I pay for a SiriusXM subscription, and I use it on a daily basis. I have noticed a few issues with the reception however. On my way to work and home, I go through a decent length tunnel. My Sirius XM drops signal in the tunnel. The really weird part is, my dads GMC pickup with has XM does NOT loose signal in the same tunnel, and one of my coworkers 2014 F150 also does not loose signal in the tunnel. Obviously, satalite radio needs clear view of the sky, but they do make terrestrial repeaters for cities with tall buildings. What I am wondering is why does my dad's pickup and my coworkers pickup both keep signal when my vehicle looses it? Has anyone else noticed this if they have multiple vehicles with Sirius XM radios, where their fusion looses signal in places your other keeps it?

Out of curiosity (and not starting some sort of argument here, I'm honestly curious), what difference is it if the vehicle is going ~5MPH compared to 0? I know in a standard transmission, an actual gear shift takes place to go from R to D, so movement can cause these gears to slip/grind (damage). However, in our Hybrids/Energis, reverse is handled by the Traction Motor and the ICE can't provide any thrust, so this suggests the traction motor simply runs backwards to provide reverse. As such, no gears are actually shifting, and all that is happening is the current through the Traction Motor is being reversed. Since no gears are actually shifting or changing, there is no risk of slippage or grinding. A practical example of why this would be amazing, especially for those of us in snowy/slippery climates, is if you ever get stuck. If you could just keep a constant light pressure on the gas pedal (that butter zone where you still have traction, just before the wheel wants to break loose and slip), and just switch "gears" without adjusting the pressure, you could rock the car a lot better than needing to actually take your foot off the gas each time. Also, I do know that the traction motor is a 3-phase motor, so its not as simple as reversing the "Current" like a DC motor. Its changing the energizing pattern of the magnets that make it go backwards. I have seen the regen circle show up on the screen when I go in reverse over 15 mph and hit the brake, so I do think it does some regen. I'll look more closely at the amperage reading next time though to see if it is charging.

The "See Manual" with the wrench points to a Transmission issue. I had the "See Manual" with the wrench, and the dealer told me it was a transmission issue that causes that light to turn on. I did not have the brake issue, but seeing as how the Traction motor handles the Regen braking, they are related and could point to an issue inside the transmission. Also, the fact that the ICE didn't turn off either may suggest there is a problem with the traction motor, requiring the ICE to run to provide drive power, or with something in the transmission gears that connect the Traction motor to the rest of the drive train. EDIT: Wow, didn't see the 2014 in the time-stamp of the OP. I saw July, so figured it was still a recent thread. Sorry if I also contributed to Thread Necro-ing.

Agreed, coming to a complete stop would solve the issue as there would be no momentum. However, there are people out there who don't do that. Its still a concern of why does the vehicle not continue to brake under these conditions?

Creep mode appears to vary power to mimic braking, unless you want to stop. For example. if you are "idling" (no pressure on gas or brake pedals), you will roll forward at a constant rate of speed. If you apply the gas, you go faster (obviously). If you apply the brake to reduce acceleration, but not to stop (such as in traffic), the service brakes do not apply, but power output is reduced to simulate one "riding the brakes" in a regular car. If you press the brake harder to actually stop, the traction motor stops outputting power and the service brakes apply, stopping the vehicle. You can "feel" this by doing the following: Find a decent upwards bump in the road, like a sloped curb for a driveway, or a speedbump. Be sure that this bump is the only slope in the road (don't do this on a hill), and its a decent bump (the steeper/bigger it is, the better for this testing). Keeping your foot on the brake pedal, roll forwards towards this bump until your front wheels come in contact with it. Keep your foot on the brake to an extent where the vehicle doesn't "creep" over the obstacle, but it also doesn't roll backwards (if possible). Slowly, take pressure off of the brake pedal till the vehicle starts to move forward. If you do it slowly enough, you will feel a pulsating sensation. This is the Traction Motor pulsing power to simulate creep. If you take your foot off the brake further, the pulses go faster (or just become constant power), and you move over the obstacle. If you brake harder, the pulses decrease, and you slightly roll backwards (if you started to climb the bump).

UPDATE: So, reading another thread lead to me GrySQL's FAQ (Quiz thread). While reading, I did confirm that the ICE can't drive in Reverse, that is all electric. This makes be believe there is no gear switch to go from R to D, so no damage is being done by switching from R to D (or D to R) with vehicle movement at low speeds. I also read this: Creep Mode The hybrid electric system delivers torque to the wheels to mimic the creep mode normally found on vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission. The TCM commands a predetermined amount of torque to be delivered to the output shafts of the electronically controlled transmission. This torque is delivered from the combination of the internal combustion engine, the traction motor, or the generator motor. The maximum creep speed in forward or reverse direction is about 6 km/h (4 mph). The creep speed may vary slightly if ambient temperature, altitude, relative humidity, engine temperature, or weight of the vehicle changes. Is it possible, that since I have my foot on the brake when switching gears, creep mode gets disabled (so you are not "creeping" and applying the brakes at the same time), but the service brakes are not applied, so the vehicle rolls backwards until I take my foot off the brake, reactivating Creep Mode? If so, this confirms my suspicion of a major safety issue that should be reprogrammed in some way. If your foot is on the brake, the vehicle should stop.

So, I know that in a regular car, is is a BIG no-no, but I do it in my Fusion Hybrid from time to time. First, let me ask does anyone know if the Hybrid drive train actually has a gear that switches to go from R to D? Or does it just reverse the current through the Traction Motor? If there is a gear, I will immediately stop what I am doing, but if it is just current, then there is no harm. Now for my issue, When I back out of my driveway in the morning, I don't always wait for the car to stop before going from R to D. Now, I'm not going SUPER fast, usually under 5MPH when I do, but I have noticed something really concerning. My driveway is rather long, so I get moving when backing out of it (15MPH or so). When I get out onto the street, I hit the brakes, slowing my vehicle (regen, not service brakes), then switch from R to D (with my foot still on the brakes). The moment I do this, all brake power goes away, and I continue to roll backwards in D as if the vehicle was in neutral with no brakes. If I take my foot OFF the brake, I stop quicker than with my foot ON the brake. At my house, this is not a concern as I live at the very end of the street, and I know no one is behind me. But I have had this happen in a couple situations where it was almost dangerous. I honestly feel that a vehicle should continue to brake at the same rate, regardless of what gear its in, or which way its going. Anyone else do this and notice something like what I am describing?