Scientist1968

76mm 14 Flutes

What oil filter wrench size (MM) and number of flutes needed for 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid Platinum? Regards

Hello Murphy. I agree with each and every thing you have said. I appreciate your efforts in helping me and others here. Last Sunday, I did perform 100 Amp test after fully charging my battery. Amps are as follows: Before test: 12.8v During 6sec 100 Amp load: 10.8v Right after: 12.4v I looked at Optima D35 Yellow Top Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size 35, 620 CCA. Looks promising. I will search for the other battery you referred to that someone else fitted into their energy without cutting tray.

Hi All, I have completed my tests. Here are the numbers. Battery: AutoCraft Gold Battery - SPECIFICATIONS BCI Group Size: 67R Cold Cranking Amperage:400 A Cranking Amperage:500 A Reserve Capacity:65 min 1. The Kaho GPS amp measurement: - 14mA-22 mA - Test done after initial boot up that takes 3-4mins. - Test it outside the car connecting it to an instrument to measure voltage and amps. 2. Open circuit battery drain test - Negative terminal of the battery was removed - June 11: Unplugged battery AT 2pm - 12.61v means battery had 93% capacity - Time period 18hr to 27hr - June 12: at 8am, 2pm and 5pm - 12.50v means battery had 84% capacity - Time period 24hr - June 13: Next day 5:13pm - 12.44v means battery had 78% capacity 3. 100 amp load test - Battery is not charged as of June 11 2pm - June 13: before load 12.5v - During the load test 10.5v - Immediately after 7 secs of load completes 12.2v 4. Battery drain by car test - Temp: hot Houston weather during night and day - GPS is not plugged into OBD2 - Battery was connected to car - Car was not on and is locked - Test start time: 10:10pm - 12.41v means battery had 75% capacity - Test duration 14hr 45min - Test end time: 12:55pm - 11.58v means battery had 0% capacity 5. Parasitic drain test - Drain current: 17mA - GPS was not plugged into OBD2 - Current measured after car settled down after 12 mins of connecting the battery Could all of you draw conclusions based upon above numbers? If I need a new battery, any suggestion? - Car is not driven often - Battery is fully drained 6-7 times so far but charged back fully in a day or so - We do not have electric plug nearby, so can't trickle charge - We get lots of sunshine. Therefore solar trickle charger, if you can suggest, is not a problem. Best Regards

Thank you Murphy. 1. Unplugged battery AT 2pm yesterday. Open circuit voltage then: 12.61v Today at 8am, 2pm and 5pm it was 12.50v Tomorrow I will check voltage then put 100amp load for 5secs and then will check voltage, during and an hour later. 2. Removed GPS tracker today. It was plugged into the OBD2 port. Device has following components: a. OBD plug (was connected to car's OBD2) b. 2 wires from the above plug connected to GPS device c. many wires from the above plug connected to OBD socket left dangling for anyone to connect OBD tool to get codes. ~~~I am surprised that car's OBD port is deep and behind the kick panel. Not sure there is a window to access it. 3. Tomorrow or day after, I will place place multi-meter in series between battery and battery harness and check amps consumed throughout the day. I am not planning to start the car during this test. Any suggestions or conclusions by anyone are most welcome.

Big thank you Murphy for adding so much detail. 1. What I am refering to as GPS tracking is a dealer provided service called Kahu. "Connected car and stolen vehicle recovery technology built for dealer groups and independent dealers" https://www.spireon.com/kahu/ The addition of Kahu is something dealer does by default and try to charge $1000 for it which I did not pay, then they gave me that anyway. I did not need it so I did not sign in or website and if it requires activation, I did not do it. I paid for my car in full so Kahu is not there because of a car loan or a lease. I may get it removed as I do not need it. Couple of tests by me and our friend, who just became mechanic, showed that car uses 20-30 milli amps when off. So I did not suspect this device. 2. I have unconnected the negative terminal of the battery now and noted down voltage as 12.46v. I will check every 8 hours to see how much self-discharge is going on. 3. I googled AGM battery technology and it seems AGM charges are lower voltage than Wet Batteries that charge at 14 volts. Does your car charge your AGM battery (at 14 volts) or you only use your Schumacher smart battery charger in AGM mode? Warm regards

Thank you Murphy for looking at the problem from different angles. I appreciate it a lot. 1. To answer your question, dealer had GPS tracking device added to the car. I have not logged into the website to register or activate it, if it requires activation. So not sure of it's state. It is paid for a year though, till August. I am not using it and I am not sure of my next steps on this. 2. I am considering replacing the wet cell battery with an AGM battery. Are there any additional electrical components needed for AGM battery to work? What is the brand and model you used? Is your battery vented? I do not have problem cutting the tray. 3. Do you have any other suggestions?

Thank you Murphy. This battery has gone down to 2volts or so many times now. Testing by Autozone, Advanced Auto and by me with 100amp load gives 11volts. As I have mentioned above day after tomorrow, I am planning to disconnect the battery to see if it self discharges. If it does so, that will mean battery has become bad. I also want to mention that, we have once replaced the battery 4 months back to a new battery, that also died same way (voltage gone down to 2 volts overnight), in 4 weeks. So we ruled out battery then.

Friends, I apologize for not responding earlier as I had given up on any response. But when I Iogged in yesterday to see if I am lucky, you all firmed up my original impression of your generosity. I feel happy. Big thank you mwr for taking a lead to answer my question. Your confirmation that you are not facing this problem during similar temperatures as mine, is very helpful. Great inputs Billford: "you can't break the battery circuit while connecting the ammeter or you will get false readings." make sure the "P" in the dashboard lights up. If it doesn't, there is a park detect switch in the shifter that sticks and drains the battery thermal imaging camera to see what's warm after the car sits for a while Great inputs from Eisbaer too: I would try disconnecting the battery altogether when I anticipate a night that would cause problems is forecast then reconnect and see if it starts. When it won't start, do you have to jump it or it won't do anything at all? Response: I have to jump it. Then I leave it on for 4 hours to get it back to 12.7 volts from 1-2volts. As it is hybrid, most times engine stays off while HV battery charges low voltage at 14 volts. 1. I have load tested it just now after fully charging it and it is still reads 11volts under 100amp of load. 2. I am planning to disconnect the battery day after tomorrow and see how quickly it goes down by 2 volts to rule out any self-discharge issue. 3. I will redo my parasitic load test following Billford's recommendations of not disconnecting circuit… Anyone has any other ideas? Regards

Anyone?

Hello All, We have 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium with 35k miles on it. We live in Texas and our car is parked in open. Mostly we have 70 degrees Fahrenheit plus weather but whenever we have cold weather (60 or below) car battery voltage goes down to 2 volts overnight or so and car won’t start. We have seen this consistently for last 6 months and every 4 or so weeks we get into this situation. Battery is 1 year old and tests alright, including testing by placing 100Amp of load. Car uses 30 mill amps when engine is turned off and current tested 30mins after car is switched off. That is, parasitic load or drain on battery is within specs. Any help to pinpoint the issue or any suggestions are welcome. Warm regards

Hello Linda99, We have 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium with 35k miles on it. We live in Texas and our car is parked in open. Mostly we have 70 degrees Fahrenheit plus weather but whenever we have cold weather (60 or below) car battery voltage goes down to 2volts overnight or so and car won’t start. We have seen this consistently for last 6 months and every 4 or so weeks we get into this situation. Battery is 1 year old and tests alright, including testing by placing 100Amp of load. Car uses 30 mill amps when engine is turned off and current tested 30mins after car is switched off. That is, parasitic load or drain on battery is within specs. How did you fix your issue mentioned in this thread? Regards

Thanks Fusion Hybrid Addict for the response. We changed wheel wearing. It was tough to remove, so we removed knuckle along with axle. After the axle was removed, some of the transmission fluid dripped out. I want to top the fluid up. I will appreciate any pictures or otherwise information about the location of the fill plug. Best Regards

Hi All, Could you share the location of Transmission Drain and Fill Plug Locations in 2010 FFH? It will be great if you can also share the pictures. Regards