I bought a used 2019 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid from Enterprise Car Sales last year with about 40,000 miles on the clock. Wanted to run either Seafoam or CRC GDI Intake Valve Cleaner just in case the car was not treated well. Any recommendations on where to pump it in? Thinking of either removing the MAF sensor and using that hole to spray the stuff in. Can't find the brake vacuum tube and don't want to spray it directly into the throttle body. Thanks!

Sorry for the late response. I broke the wire right where it joined the connector so I couldn't just splice it together. I watched a Ford Tech Makuloco video about connectors. I took the connector apart, took out the broken part of the wire inside, stripped the end of the existing harness, and inserted it into the connector. It is barely long enough to get pushed back into place. I had to replace the harness on the rear taillight. I broke the connector while taking it apart. Ford's replacement harness comes with heat shrink butt connectors that you crimp into place, then heat. Thanks for the responses.

See if it's a leak covered by this TSB, or if the case itself is cracked through extreme driving. If the transmission is cracked, then I can't see how it would be covered by warranty. But if it's a leaking damper housing (or any other reason other than a cracked case) then it should be covered by warranty. At the first link, notice it's covered under emissions warranty. At the second link, notice that it states that variable transmission is covered under the hybrid unique component warranty of 8 years/100,000 miles. Bring this to new dealers and raise hell. https://ford.oemdtc.com/1036/transmission-fluid-leak-at-the-damper-housing-2013-2014-ford-lincoln https://help.ford.com/warranty/hybrid-electric-vehicle-unique-component-coverage/

Okay the hood ajar light is bothering me. I broke a wire going into the electrical connector behind the driver's side headlight. Now the hood ajar light stays on and remote start doesn't work. How do I fix this? I was thinking of getting a wiring harness but I don't know which one to get.

For the rear brakes, you need to line up the notch on the inside brake pads with the brake caliper piston pocket. Only rotate the piston COUNTER CLOCKWISE to align. Damage to brake pad or caliper piston may result otherwise. Not that tough to do. Just put the brake into maintenance mode, and you can just push the piston in without turning it. Manual actually suggests using a C-clamp. See below.

Process was very simple due to @billford providing instructions. I way overthought it. Access is available to the drain plug if you lift the car using ramps. After you drain it, replace the drain plug and use high temp thread sealant. Take the car off the ramp. Just got the Mityvac 7201 for $100 from Amazon, pumped fluid into the fill hole until it started dripping. You can also use a funnel but note that my 3/8 inch tube was too thick to fit into the fill port. Pumped over 4.5 quarts of fluid into the system before it started to drip. Replace the fill plug. Run the engine for a minute. I shifted through all the gears but it's not in the instructions. Wait five minutes. Open the fill plug and let excess fluid drain.

It is. The procedure for the inverter system is to remove the hose, drain the fluid by tipping the inverter coolant reservoir up 30 degrees, and filling it back up while burping it. The service manual is available on eBay for $12.99. I'll put the instructions here. The orange coolant is now superseded by the yellow coolant, but the engine and the inverter cooling systems both use the same type of antifreeze according to the manual. Pictures of the appropriate pipe to drain from and the screws to remove from the inverter reservoir are below. System holds 1.1 quarts according to the manual. The steps are as follows: Place transmission selector in park. Start the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal and START button until the ready to drive indicator is illuminated. Note: The gas engine may or may not start. Confirm the SOBDMC / TCM coolant pump is running by feeling for vibration at the pump. Watch for air bubbles in the coolant expansion tank for the SOBDMC / TCM . Add coolant to the coolant expansion tank if the level falls below the MIN mark. Bleeding is complete when bubbling stops. Material : Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted / VC-3DIL-B (WSS-M97B44-D2) Turn off ignition. Check and fill the coolant expansion tank until the coolant level is between the MIN and MAX marks. Material : Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted / VC-3DIL-B (WSS-M97B44-D2) Repeat steps 2 through 4 if necessary.

Yuck. I broke a wire in the wiring harness. Should I try to repair it or replace it? Any guides on what the part no is? Haven't been able to find it.

As long as the parking brakes are in the service mode, the caliper piston can be pushed back in without problem. Rotation is not necessary.

I have a FFH 2013 and attempted a rear brake pad and caliper replacement. I put the system into service mode and removed the caliper and rotors. I bled the brakes by opening the bleeder and draining it into a one-man bleeder. I then tried to put the caliper back on but the piston was fully extended. I messed up by taking it out of service mode and then back into service mode. The piston was fully extended. I tried to turn it in with the OEM tool but it didn't go all the way in. Now I can't get the caliper back on. How do I fix this issue? Thank you!

There's a white cap on the shock that had to be moved over to the new shocks in addition to the bellows and cover. Lol.

Check your suspension. The shocks and struts might cause this to happen if they go bad.

Thanks for the responses. My cars have always had beat-up suspensions as most of my driving is on local roadways with huge potholes, bumps, and uneven drainage grills. NYC is hell for cars no matter how carefully you drive, and with the weak-ass headlights on the Fusion, it's near-impossible to dodge or slow down in time. I've had to replace the lower left control arm on my Fusion already. So the 36,000 miles is deceptive because it's almost all local. Anyway, I replaced one of the rear shocks with the KYB. I don't know if the OEM shock is dead but it rebounds much faster than the new KYB replacement. Perhaps the KYB is stiffer than OEM and that's why but the difference is very significant. My problem now is that the KYB is rattling because I can't get the top mounting nut tight enough. KYB says to tighten with the car lowered so that's what I tried but to no avail. Still no go. Will try again and see what's going on.

I have a 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid with about 36,000 miles on it. The car is riding really bumpy. I'd like to replace the struts and shocks to see if that fixes the problem. I am thinking of getting the KYB, Koni, and Monroe OESpectrum. Of the three, I'm leaning hard towards the OESpectrum because they have the quick strut. I would like to avoid the spring compressor and reassembly if I can. However, I'm looking for updated recommendations on struts. Haven't been able to find any new forum posts on this matter. I'd appreciate any experience you guys have had!

Hey everyone! I am planning on draining and filling the transmission fluid on my 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium. I will use the proper Motorcraft fluid. Going to use the drain plug to let the ATF out. Then I'm going use to use one of the transmission funnel that has a 18 inch by 0.5 inch flexible pipe to refill the transmission with the same amount as I took out with about an extra 1/3 of a quart to account for spills, etc. Then I'm going to drive the car around to warm up the fluid, jack it back up to the same height, and then open the leveling screw with the engine off to let out the excess. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MCXOOA https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004X143 1. Will the 18" extension be enough to reach the fill plug? 2. What kind of thread sealant do I need for the various plugs? 3. Does anyone have the pictures of the various plugs? 4. Anyone have any advice? Not in huge rush. Will spend more time to get a better understanding of the endeavor before embarking on it.

Loving the 16" snow tires. Getting Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ in 18.

My car will occasionally slide/lurch forward while braking. The feeling is as if the regenerative brakes are disengaging, and then re-engaging, which is very disconcerting. I thought the problem was resolved after having the rear rotor and brakes replaced last year at 21,000 miles but the problem still happens. The posts on the following link perfectly describe what's going on with my car. I also need to get the front rotors replaced. The dealer has not been able to reproduce the issue. http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Fusion_Hybrid/2013/brakes/service_brakes.shtml

I had my rear rotors replaced at 21,000 on a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid. They were grooved to the touch, even though the pads were only half worn. I had them replaced by my mechanic. Also had to have my auxiliary battery replaced.

I apologize for the belated update. The dealer somehow missed the fact that the rear rotors were grooved/rusted/warped at only 21,000 miles and needed replacement. The pads were only half worn, but the rotors themselves were really messed up. The front rotors and pads were just fine. I can post pictures of the rear rotors later today. The car has stopped shuddering after the rotors were replaced. Just be wary of the free multipoint inspection from the dealership with every oil change! =P

As another data point, I have a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid that required the rear rotors and brake pads to be replaced at 21,000 miles. The pads were only half-worn, but the rear rotors were rusted and heavily grooved. The front rotors and pads were just fine. Odd that the back wore off so quickly.

The 16 inch winter tires fit well. Drove very well over wintry slush and even large piles of snow. Note, however, that if your car is snowed in under two feet of snow, you will still need to dig it out; the snow tires will not let you drive out. The TPMS warning went off intermittently but was not a problem.

This is ridiculous. I got my car repaired under the TSB but it's starting to smell again. Seriously?

Thanks for the link, Ira! I upgraded with your upload, and it works perfectly. Now i'm on Version 3.8. I don't know about the Siri upgrade, but things are much, much snappier across the board.

Ugh. Is there any way to fix this SiriusXM issue? It's killing me to have drop outs while driving in even light rain.

The tires should be about an eighth of an inch apart in diameter. It's about a 0.6% difference. I hope the steering and suspension won't be affected too much because the gas Fusion S does come with 16" tires. I'm worried about the CVT not working for whatever reason or the tires not fitting. http://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=235-45r18-215-60r16 Well, I guess the only thing for me to do is to wait for the tires to come in, install them, and drive them around. I will report back!