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Subaru Legacy XT. My wife said she wouldn't retire, Until she gets a new car. And, Ford left the market of sedan's. Still won't retire.....? Only choice was a Tesla Y. Be well.

Goodbye to my beloved 13 Fusion (Ruby). 106k and minimum service issues.? Sad to see it go. Will miss it's 35- 42 mpg average. Its advanced features are still better than cars offered today. Will check in now and then, But not as often. Thanks for all the good advice.

2013 Fusion Hybrid SE A DIY on my pass side under body deflector. This 5 ft cover extends from under engine metal cover to rear seat area. The low hanging damaged cover was originally to be just removed. But as I could see the orange battery cables now visible.Thought I better treat this more seriously. Original part is a fiberglass semi rigid fiberglass cover. New one is softer, but still holds its shape. Ordered from Ford. 1 Deflector DG9Z9911782*J 1 pkg of 4 retention nuts. W714358*S442 1 pkg of 4 extension grommet clip W718554*S300 The tin retention nuts are 15/16" in size and come off easily. I had a few bent under body posts for these nuts. So, extra time was to straighten them. Bigger issue is the body posts thin from rust. A hammer blow to the center of the self threading retention nut.Then they went on tight. The ordered grommet clips didn't have their lock rings. (C'mon Ford!) Luckily I had 3 originals and used a garden hose washer to hold the last grommet together. New Deflector doesn't have holes for the 4 grommet clips. A 3/4 inch flat spade bit drill was used with the old cover as a template. Worked very well. These grommet clips push into the frame and hold the cover off the under body surface. Took a bit more time to patch an aluminum heat shield tear and an oil change to completely make a mess. Lucky I ordered just enough correct parts to complete the job. Put all the covers back. And got a cold drink. (A side note) The original grommet clips and deflector were a known rattle point. If you have a unknown passenger side rattle that you cannot find. This might be the source. Drove me crazy for months. Used some nylon rope from HomeDept and wrapped the grommet/deflector cover contact point a couple times. Works well. Newer flexible cover shouldn't have this problem.

Fuel Injectors is my guess. I had 2 go at once, Parked car normally. Ran terrible when started up. Good Luck

Try the climate control reset. Someone on youtube pointed out a reset for the actuators. Press the Climate control power button and the defrost at the same time. NOT on screen.

Clunking sound from Driver side rear wheel area. Over any bump...! looked at the sway bar links and anything else, Including the shock. Couldn't find the source. Wife drove me with my body banging around. (Think she enjoyed it too) Took out shock and found slight wiggle movement on top. Gotcha! Fusion has a shock bracket on top. It's bushings are not replaceable. Unlike the old fashioned rubber bumpers with a body flange in the middle. Looked at the aftermarket parts and decided to go with Ford on this one. Picked up 1 and ordered the 2nd. $127 lighter, I decided on aftermarket Monroe shocks. Another $136. Simple job, 4 bolts remove the shock. Top of shock bolt was badly corroded and some on the shaft too. Took a vise and a bunch of back and forth to salvage the plastic shock cover. A lot of oxidation on the bolts. They cleaned up well though. Coated the rubber boot with 303 spray. To keep it soft. Bottom shock flange has slight angle on the bottom. Just rotate shock to lay it flat and match the angle on the lower control arm. Some blue lock tight on top bolts. Done. I will probably spray fluid film on the top bracket. The shock bolt collects a lot of dirt and water and doesn't drain. Cleaning it annually with air. 2nd shock was the same, Showed bulging rubber in the center. Glad I did both. 1 hour+ total work. 95K on speedo.

After 3 winters, I came across a new conclusion on my lack of feet heat. The Driver side actuator was kaput. Worse than before. Someone on youtube pointed out a reset for the actuators. Press the Climate control power button and the defrost at the same time. NOT on screen. Fusion starts up and heat vents opened slightly for me. After short time it reverted. At least I got some warmth. Did this a few dozen times and decided to replace the Driver actuator for heat. A bear of a job, If you attempt this fix. Full day to remove 3 screws & plug. And replace. 1/4" flex shaft 12'' extension and a right angle 1/4" drive with phillips bits. Added to the 1/4 inch drive kit I have. I recommend a very short philips screwdriver, under 2 inch total. Cut off most the handle if needed. Removed the panel below the steering column and little fan harness. Problem is the brake pedal assembly is 2 inches away. So a lot of reaching and an feet up position was needed. Shoulder cushion was helpful. Actuator setting was suppose to be resting at 45 degree on the removed unit. Mine was 220 degrees. To get the angle correct, I tore apart the removed actuator and used the gear as a knob. Rotated the blower door to match the 45 degree angle on the actuator. New one went in OK with the exception of the top screw. Used crazy glue to attach screw to the flexi driver philips head. Then fed it to its home. Inserted over the steering column. And cursed for quite some time till installed. Sorry, No video. Tight wiring to the top screw makes it extra fun. Run the reset mentioned above on the new actuator. So far, This looks like a good fix. Knuckles are healing.

75K on my 13 Fusion. No leakage, No noise, No problems.

Nothing different than any other brake job. E Brake procedure was new to me, But simple. Make sure you clean and regrease the caliper slide pins. Carefully clean and grease the brake pad ears and their caliper contact points. BrakeKleen the fresh rotors. If you take more than 45 mins..... You stopped for a beer. I just finished the front brakes. Heavy grooves in the front rotor and pads. BUT NO REAL WEAR ON THE PADS. I mean it,,,, None. I'm thinking of braking harder now and then to reduce the grooves.. Or try to blow out the dirt now and then. No pitting on the front rotors. I'll have them cut and use as a backup set. Got ABS and Brake codes after the front brake job. I tried the same E Brake reset procedure. And the codes went away immediately.

The light grooves were consistent on all 4 wheels. My guess is the light braking of driving a hybrid. Less vibration = Less pad movements.. more grooves. Noticed it when I changed tires a year ago. <<As for Texasota's idea of hard braking to eliminate the grooves.>> It might help. But the lifespan of my pads is pretty normal. Why waste the gas. I'd like to see a non hybrid Fusion to see their wear pattern. Pitting is typical of the solid disc brake. My other cars have had similar pitting. Surprising that its always on the inside of the disc. At 63K, I have no complaints. I live in stop light country. I'll do the front brakes soon. (warmer weather) I will throw out the barely worn front pads. Just to clear up the groovy discs. Interested to see if the non hybrid Fusions front discs have less grooving.

63K+ miles and the rear brake pads looked very thin... Rotors were grooved also on all 4 wheels. But the front pads were barely worn at all. Prices on rear replacement pads weren't bad. $64 But the parts store rotors price were high. $72 a rotor and out of stock. Since the rotor didn't look too worn.. I thought cutting them would be the way to go. Interesting with the new Electric E Brakes. There is a service mode procedure to wind the E tension back into the caliber. Reverse procedure with the Brake Pedal to undo the service mode. Look it up on You tube for step by step. Disassembly was e z. But noticed many pit holes in the back side of the rotor. Changing rotor would be mandatory now. Called a 2nd parts store. Same chain and part #...... $34 a rotor..... SOLD. Observations: Wire tension clips on caliber is a PITA to put back in. Not awful though. And there is no squealing clip on the original pads to let you know they are worn. Since the rear rotors were so pitted. I will probably do the fronts soon. Pads look perfect, But they will go too. Front rotors are lightly grooved also and I'm guessing they are pitted also on the inside. Maybe 1 hour total.

A long time update: I've figured out some of the problem with the lack of heat on the drivers floor. It's not an electronic problem and there is heat. Ford uses a thin air handling tube to carry down the floor heat. Its best described by this measuring spoon. This is behind the driver side - center console cover. By the accelerator pedal. As the air runs down the tube , Ford hopes it magically turns left exit the side vent and warm your feet. It ain't happening. There is a big gap to the vent cover. Its just heating the center console and rug. I cut a piece of 3/4" pipe insulation attached it to the side console cover and have redirected the warm air out of the center console. I attached it to the console side vent grill and slipped the other side of the tube over the spoon shaped side. My fix isn't very pretty, And I'm looking to improve it . Its very leaky still. But I am finally getting a little warm air by my feet. Hope this helps others.

Over the last month I noticed there is no heat on my feet. No problem with the passenger side feet. I assume it's a actuator. Wonder if there is any self test diag mode for the Climate Control? I'm very accustomed to Chrysler's version. Never heard of any Ford version. Any one know of it? Thanks in advance.

You are achieving very good mileage. 4.1 - 4.4 = 57 - 53 mpg. 5.4 = 43.5 mpg is still very good. Your petrol is probably ethanol free. We average 39 mpg + without any careful driving techniques. As a Hybrid, not an Energi. Petrol can changed seasonally. Try a different brand of Petrol. A recent tire replacement or tire pressure can affect mpg a bit. If you recently stopped charging your battery, That would make a big difference. I find the best mileage with an almost or fully charged battery. Watch your Engage screen. And keep the Blue EV assist motor off. Running on ICE 2 KW bars will make the mileage go up. The gas engine will turn off to use its battery charge. Fight it. Tap the pedal to start the ICE or turn on an accessory (seat heater or air conditioning) to keep the EV assist off. See if it help.