aschulz261

The examples you give from the shop manual are exactly what you would expect from a transmission in neutral. I just find the fact that there is no charging load while in neutral to be weird. The ICE can handle the load in Park, and I would expect the load to be the same in neutral. Does this mean that it is possible to COMPLETELY discharge the HVB with the AC on if left in neutral? I can't think of any other instance where the ICE is running and the HVB is discharging and I can't understand WHY you wouldn't be charging the HVB in this scenario.

Earlier today, while stopped in line at a drive thru with the AC on, the ICE started due to a low SOC. In order to keep the car from "creeping", I put it in Neutral. As I did that, I noticed the arrows around the battery icon went from charging (up arrow) to discharging (down arrow. I thought that was strange, so I put it back in gear and the arrows showed that it was charging again. After doing this a few times and the arrows changing from charging to discharging based on if it was in gear or in Neutral, I figured it was just weird programming in the software, until I noticed there was a change in tone in the ICE each time the arrows changed. The rpms weren't changing but the sound was. I guess that was a difference in load on the ICE. I'm guessing it doesn't charge in neutral because the load on the engine is "unacceptable" somehow, but, then why leave the engine running? I'm puzzled. Does anyone have an explanation for this?

I just tired this with mine. Stopped on a step hill. Let off the brake and the car held for about 2 seconds, then slowly started rolling backward. It would appear that the amount of torque applied to the motor at "idle" can be overcome by a steep enough hill. While stopped on the hill, releasing the brake and accelerating before the 2 seconds are up, the car just drives off like a normal car would do.

I use the hill descent control frequently. It's always nice to get off the highway and head downhill to get a full battery charge while nearing home. I haven't been able to figure out exactly how it works, but it seems to want to try and hold whatever speed you were traveling when you let off the accelerator. If the hill is too steep and the regen can't hold the speed down, it will use the ICE for speed control. I have noticed that when that happens, there is no longer any regen occurring. The same thing will happen if the HVB becomes full. The ICE is used from that point on. I have found one awkward point in the software. If you are heading down a fairly steep hill with hill descent on, and the HVB is full, engine braking is used to try and control vehicle speed. If you need to stop in this set of circumstances, there is a lot of engine braking from the ICE and the service brakes get used. BUT, once you get down to about 5mph, the engine braking is shut off. It makes the last 5 mph kind of exciting if you aren't expecting it.

When I was looking at getting my 2013 HyTi last year, the local dealer wanted to sell me a NEW 2010 he had on the lot since 2010. AND....he only wanted 10k OVER list price for it! Needless to say, that's why I bought mine from another dealer on the mainland.

Ok...this tank is highly abnormal and I never expected it to have even what could be considered to be "good" mileage. The car has been parked for almost 4 months due to an extended trip I was on. Before I left, I filled the tank to make sure there was no chance of collecting water in the tank. I got back and, as expected, it wouldn't start. It came close....it unlocked the doors, but I think it gave it's last gasp when all the computers turned on because it wouldn't start. No problem. Hooked a charger to it and let it run all night and it was fully charged by morning. I've been driving it a lot to try and get this gas used up since it is fairly old. Yesterday, it was about time to fill it up again. And here begins my frustration. The fuel gauge turned yellow and got the LOW FUEL message. DTE was 38 miles. I drove it 11 miles back to town to fill it up. That trip averaged 68.7 mpg! YAY! I got to the gas station with DTE showing 7 miles (not even going to try and figure out THAT math)....and.....the fuel gauge was WHITE again. WTF! 7 miles DTE and not even a YELLOW gauge? SOOOO, I fill it up and it takes 11.56 gallons! WTF? Car computer showed 28.7 mpg for that tank. Hand calculations show 26.1 mpg so, in the end, DTE shows it as empty. Gauge shows adequate fuel. Actual level...almost empty. Why can't it just tell you how much gas is really in the damn tank?

I have driven that road many time when I lived in Las Vegas. That pass is surprisingly steep. I had a 94 Grand Prix GTP at the time and it would require full throttle to go up that hill! I have not made that drive in my Fusion, but I have made the trip up several passes in Colorado with it. I have noticed that the engine rpm's are a lot higher at high altitudes than at lower altitudes. I know that near se level where I now live, you have to work at it to get the rpm's over 2000 rpm. In Vail, Colorado, if the engine was running, it was NEVER below 3000 rpm. I am going to guess that on that pass (probably 4000-5000 ft), PLUS the grade, I wouldn't be surprised if it was at 4000 rpm or higher. Change the left display to show engine rpm and see how high the ICE is revving. I bet it is a lot higher than you think.

I was just going to tell acdii that I hated him because he got notice his check was coming, then the FedEx truck pulled up and dropped off my check. :yahoo:

acdii, yours and mine were built and delivered the same week. I haven't gotten a check yet either.

The distortion in the rear window glass is present in every car that uses compound curves in the glass. There is no way around it. It would seem that either some cars are worse than others or some people are more sensitive than others to this distortion. Tinting the rear window does seem to minimize the effects of the distortion.

Last summer I drove through the mountains in Colorado, many of which are well above 5000 ft. It seemed that whenever the engine was running it was at 3000 rpm or higher. I would guess that to be normal because as the elevation descended, so did the rpm's the engine was running at. What kind of elevation are you at?

Mine always seems to get knocked loose and fall in to the console as well. It just seems to be an awkward design in my opinion.

Mine is also showing as 3.5.1 and says there is an update available.

I had it happen to me once, but, I was in Kentucky, so I figured that was enough of an explanation.

Looking around the interior of mine, I count 12 speakers. 2 in each door 1 in the center dash 3 in the rear deck based on what the wiring diagram shows and what the diagnostics state, |I guess they don't treat the rear door speakers as seperates.

I got both. The small town and warm climate. but....20 mph speed limits, AC useage and mostly short trips take their own toll.. On the other hand, I actually saw the "engine on due to heater setting" the other day. First time for THAT.

I got it last week but have only been able to try it out for a few minutes. There seem to be a lot of things to play with. I was hoping to see some specific hybrid options, but I haven't seen any of those yet. Seems to work great for reading codes and such.

I absolutely do NOT miss those winter temps. I was born and raised in Wisconsin and vividly recall the depths temps can be there. I spent 1 ridiculous winter in Texas (panhandle area) as well. There was a wekk there where windchills reached into the -triple digits. When you realize how absurd that sounds, all you have to do is look to the north from there and realize there isn't a single tree between where you are in Texas and the North Pole! It is seasons like what you are experiencing that make me realize that the move I made to Hawaii was a REALLY good decision. I hope you can appreciate that last night I actually had to close the windows (the first time since moving here) because I woke up to rain coming in and hitting me in the face.

It looks like I am off to the dealer.

I have no MyKeys set and I have swapped the batteries between remotes and still no luck.

I never configured a MyKey, but I suppose I should check that.

I'm hoping someone can help me out with this. I recently got a new unprogrammed intelligent access fob to use as a spare. Looking in the owners manual and reading the instructions there, I just can't seem to get it to program the new key. I still have both factory keys (key 1 and key2) the procedure I am using is the following: insert key 1 into slot in console (keyring facing up, buttons facing the rear). wait 5 seconds push START/STOP turning the car on remove key 1 and replace it with key 2 push START/STOP turning the car off wait 5 seconds push START/STOP turning the car on remove key 2 and replace it with unprogrammed key wait 5 seconds push START/STOP turning the car off the owners manual says it should be programmed at this point. But nothing happens. I don't get any messages on the dash saying it succeeded, failed, or even attempted anything. The START/STOP button doesn't do anything unusual during this process(blinking, pulsing, etc) I read somewhere that it should unlock the doors and flash the lights when the programming has succeeded. Obviously, I don't get that either. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

what is that?

It is probably a resonance chamber to reduce/modify intake noise.

I am keeping my fingers crossed that the dealer here is competent when I need them. So far, I have only had them do the software update. That was accomplished without any drama. My next nearest dealer is a boat ride away to another island! I WISH I only had to go 45 miles to find another dealer.