bbf2530

Hi strongline. :D As raisin mentioned., the correct size is 3/4" (or 19mm = .748...". I have a Craftsman 3/4" lug socket and it fits perfectly. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Model A. :D From the information contained in your description, it sounds like you have some sort of malfunction in the HVAC system (blend doors etc.). Make an appointment for service or have it taken care of next time your car is in for regular service. It will be covered under Warranty on a 2010 model, assuming you have less than 36,000 miles on the car. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi con_fusion. :D As akirby and royrodey have mentioned, you have until the 3 year/36/000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty expires to purchase a Ford ESP Plan contract (4 years/50,000 for Lincoln). And there is technically a $100 surcharge after the first year. Also, as you have mentioned, having an ESP Plan with the optional Rental Car Coverage will get you a loaner/rental when your car is in for ESP covered services. This comes in handy at Dealerships that do not offer complementary loaners. You can find out the MSRP/Retail prices of the various Plans here LINK: Ford ESP Plans, then use those MSRP prices to begin your shopping. Remember, in the same manner as purchasing a car, the purchase price of an ESP Plan is highly negotiable. In case it helps, this is a copy and paste of a reply of mine to another Blue Oval Ford member concerning my extensive shopping and purchase of an ESP contract in November of 2010 (on my 2007 Lincoln MKZ). Hope the information helps (coincidentally, I also received quotes from both your Dealership link and the one royroddey linked to) :beerchug: : "Hi MrHappy. Call this number: 1-866-943-7778. It is the ESP Plan Department number for Harold Ziegler Ford/Automotive Group (located in Illinois/Indiana/Michigan areas). The number gets you the Dealerships ESP Internet sales department which sells to the entire U.S. (not sure about Canada). Ask for Michael Case, or follow the prompts to get his extension. After much Internet and Local Dealership ESP shopping, I received the lowest price from him and the experience was very professional. Copy of quotes were immediately sent to my E-mail, and when I actually purchased, the contract copy was also immediately sent to my E-mail. My credit card was charged for the proper amount and when I checked with my local Lincoln Dealership, the correct ESP Plan was properly registered for my vehicle. During my shopping, I also received a similar low quote from Flood Ford (located in Rhode Island) at 1-888-318-8534, but decided to go with Harold Ziegler Ford. You will find the lowest prices at these online sellers, and can either purchase from them or use the pricing to try and get your Dealerships asking price lowered. For example, my local Dealership started out ~$500 more than those two Internet Dealers. My local Dealership eventually came down to within $100, but still could not (or would not) match the Internet sellers. So I went with the Internet seller. If you Google "Ford ESP Plan", you can find additional online sellers for more price comparisons. Keep in mind that some people feel "self insuring" (put the money in the bank and save it for possible future use) is more cost effective. It essentially is a personal choice and either choice can be correct according to individual circumstances, as long as the individual is comfortable with their decision. Hope this information helps. Whatever you decide to do, good luck."

Hi boltonebob. :D The trunk lid does not pop-up into a complete open position when the interior or keyfob trunk-unlock buttons are pushed (as some cars do). On the Fusion/Milan/MKZ the buttons merely unlock the trunk, which then allows it to pop up about an inch or so (enough for your fingers to get under the lid). Or as you describe, it is "supposed to only unlock the trunk so you can pull it open". That slight "pop-open" is what I believe akirby was referring to. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ashetrentnn. :D I addition to knowing the Taurus wheels offset, you will also need to find out the centerbore size. The Fusion centerbore is 67.1mm. If the Taurus wheel centerbore is larger than 67.1mm, you can use it (with the proper hub-rings). If it is smaller than 67.1mm, it will not fit. I seem to recall previously reading that the Taurus and MKS centerbores are smaller than 67.1mm. But I am not 100% sure, so don't take my word for it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi kirkster. :D In addition to the good advice you have already been given, I would throw out one other possibility (however remote it may be): Since it has only happened in one particular spot both times, do you happen to park on an uphill or downhill slope (car is not level) when you are starting the car in the morning? If the brake fluid is slightly low but the car is parked on a slope, it may give a false low reading. Of course, this is probably not what is causing your issue, but figured I would play it safe and mention it. We had a 1999 Mercury Cougar, (the smaller front wheel drive model) that had that known issue. When parked on a nose-up slope, the brake fluid sensor would detect a false low fluid reading, even when the fluid was at the full mark. The recommended cure for that problem was to slightly overfill the reservoir. However, you have a new vehicle, so I would not recommend you do that. Look for other possible contributing causes and bring it in if/when it happens next time (without restarting it or turning it off when you get to the Dealer). You have a new vehicle, so let it be diagnosed and repaired correctly (my opinion, of course). Just as an FYI, this is a copy and paste from the Hybrid Owners Manual, concerning checking the brake fluid level (2010 in this case): BRAKE FLUID The fluid level will drop slowly as the brakes wear, and will rise when the brake components are replaced. Check fluid levels with the ignition in the on position. Fluid levels between the MIN and MAX lines are within the normal operating range; there is no need to add fluid. If the fluid levels are outside of the normal operating range the performance of your brake system could be compromised; seek service from your authorized dealer immediately. Also, contrary to popular belief, not all warning lights or issues cause a code to be stored. In fact, in the grand scheme of things, more issues do not throw codes than do. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Accidental double post. Sorry. :banghead:

Hi val. :D If the information you typed is correct, then the wheel/tire combination that came on your car (225/35-18) was way off the correct sizing. factory Fuions equipped with 18" wheels have 225/45-18 tires. Those 225/35/18's were far too small in diameter. Anyway, if you use this Tire Size Calculator LINK: Tire Size Calculator, you will see that the tires you are thinking of purchasing are actually a better fit than the tires that were on your car. When you use the calculator, for comparison sake, use the factory/stock 18" tire size of 225/45-18 as the "stock tire size". As far as pros and cons: Well, the biggest con is that a 245 width tire is larger than you need, so it will also be more expensive than necessary, both in initial cost and in case of damage/replacement. And apples to apples, it will also return lower fuel mileage than a 225 width tire of the same make/model. However, that is a personal choice and completely up to you. Also, you don't mention whether the wheels on your car are the factory 18" wheels or aftermarket? If they are aftermarket, how wide are they (the factory 18's are 7.5")? This would be another factor as to how wide a tire you should use. Each tire width has a recommended wheel width range, and for safety reasons you must say within that width range. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi millzrm. :D You don't mention model year/mileage/Warranty status. My advice? If you are still within the Bumper to Bumper Warranty, take it in and let the Dealers Service Department properly diagnose and repair it. If no longer under Warranty, you have a choice to make. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi munruss. :D If you check your Owners Manual, there are detailed instructions and diagrams showing where the aiming screw is located, how to aim etc.. Look in the Index under "Headlamps", then "aiming" for the correct pages in your Owners Manual copy. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tsetse. :D While I would agree with you that changing at 30,000 miles certainly can not hurt anything, whether it is necessary or called for by Ford's "Special Operating Conditions" is a subject that at best is certainly more dependent on individual interpretation and driving habits. From the Ford Maintenance Schedule, there are four specific "Special Operating Conditions". Here they are copied and pasted verbatim: 1 - "Towing a trailer or using a camper or car-top carrier". 2 - "Extensive idling and/or low-speed driving for long distances as in heavy commercial use such as delivery, taxi, patrol car or livery". 3 - "Operating in dusty conditions such as unpaved or dusty roads". 4 - "Off-road operation". I can only speak for myself, but my driving fits none of those criteria. I do not tow or use any type of roof-top carrier. I do not drive my vehicle in the same manner as a heavy commercial, delivery, taxi, patrol or livery driver (periodic stop-and-go in heavy traffic does not qualify under that criteria). I rarely if ever operate my car on unpaved or dusty roads and never in off-road conditions. The one that confuses many people is #2 ("Extensive idling and/or low-speed driving..."). If taken out of context, many people think that means "stop and go" city driving. It does not, as the full description explains. Very few people actually do that "...for long distances as in heavy commercial use such as delivery, taxi, patrol car or livery.", day-in and day-out. So as can be seen by the Maintenance Schedule text above, in reality the driving habits of most people in North America certainly do not fit Ford's four "Special Operating Conditions". However, I can still agree with you that for those who think 150,000 miles is too long to wait, there is nothing wrong with changing the transmission fluid sooner. My opinion? A good compromise would be in the 60,000-100,000 range. And again, for those who wish, go ahead and change at 30,000 miles. I am not trying to talk those out of it who want to change at 30,000 miles. I am simply providing the correct information directly from the Ford Maintenance Schedule/Guide, for those who are on the fence as to what Ford requires and what their own particular driving environment calls for. In this way, we can help to avoid confusion for those not sure. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi P00r. :D Ford's Maintenance Guide recommends changing the automatic transmission fluid in the Fusion/Milan/MKZ at 150,000 miles for "Normal Service" vehicles and 30,000 miles for "Severe Service" vehicles. You can find this information in the Ford Scheduled Maintenance Guide you were given when you purchased your vehicle, (if you purchased new). In addition, the descriptions of what comprises "Normal" or "Severe Service" vehicles are also located in the Maintenance Guide. Of course, that is Ford's "recommendation". If you are more comfortable performing scheduled maintenance sooner than Ford recommends, it certainly will not hurt and that is up to you. As long as you don't change later, you are good. If you purchased your vehicle used or can not find your copy, you can download he PDF version here: LINK: Ford Owner Guides Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi aptosdriver. :D Please carefully reread the section of my reply you quoted. We are discussing two different subjects. If you reread my reply, I am not addressing the information on the Ford AXZ or Ford Partner websites (which is what you also went on to quote in your reply). Again, what I am stating is that the X-Plan price listed on the actual Factory Invoice in the Dealerships possession does include all Ford and Dealer allowed fees and charges except for the $100 maximum "Documentation Fee". That information is correct. If you research all the Plan pricing information on the AXZ or Plan websites, Ford clearly explains that the proper way to obtain the correct X-Plan price is by viewing the actual Factory Invoice at the Dealership. All other information on the Plan websites is for general information purposes only. Good luck. :beerchug: EDIT - Just saw that akirby has already explained this in his later reply. Thank you Allen. :shift:

Hi mirak. :D Yes, the X-Plan price listed on the Factory Invoice definitely has all fees and charges (including "Destination/Delivery") already included. Concerning the information on the Ford Partners website, this is my best advice. The information can be confusing. Essentially, if you read further into the fine print on the Ford AXZ and Ford Partner websites, they specifically advise that the pricing on the site is not the final word and the only correct way to get the correct X-Plan price is to visit the Dealer and see the actual Factory Invoice with the X-Plan price box listed. Of course, I realize this makes Internet shopping more difficult, but that is what I advise to all of my family and friends when they ask. In addition, for those with access to the Ford AXZ and Partner websites (as you have at the moment), you can use the "Search Dealer Inventory" feature. You input a Zip Code and you can search Inventory in all of the Dealers close to that Zip (usually a list of about 5-6 will come up). If you dive deeper into a particular Dealers Inventory section, you can access the true X-Plan price (before Incentives are deducted) of every vehicle the Dealer has in stock. Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Mirak. :D In addition to what akirby stated, just one other correction (well, actually a clarification) to the good information you posted above: While an AXZ-Plan customer does pay the "Destination Charge/Fee", it is already included in the X-Plan price which is listed on the Factory Invoice. Therefore, it is an invisible fee and already included in the X-Plan price. So when signing the paperwork, no one should see any added fees (Destination/Delivery or otherwise) on their Purchase Contract other than the exact X-Plan price as listed on the Factory Invoice, the maximum allowable $100 "Documentation Fee" (which is negotiable down to some extent) and the charges for any Dealer added options you agreed to (i.e. pin-striping, extended warranty etc.), if applicable. And then of course your particular State Taxes, Title and Registration fees. Also, keep in mind that an X-Plan buyer is still eligible for all publicly available Incentives/Rebates (and sometimes AXZ customer only Incentives). So any qualifying Incentives would still be deducted from that X-Plan price (after taxes are figured in). I wonder if that "lower" Consumer Reports "bottom line" price takes available Incentives into consideration. That would explain the price difference, as the X-Plan price listed on the AXZ and Ford partner websites do not include available Incentives. Don't know since I do not subscribe, just thinking out loud. :idea: The AXZ-Plan purchase process can be a bit confusing the first time, so we just want to avoid the possibility of the Dealer slipping in disallowed fees (unfortunately, it does happen quite often). And just to verify, the ownership rules for Ford Shareholder PINS has been changed to a minimum of 100 shares and 6 months ownership. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: