Sony Amp wiring diagram?

[Darkside]

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1485&authkey=!AJAq9kYUtHynuwQ&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

 

See if this link shows up. If it does this is what I can't find what it is.

 

Ok maybe it is an IE issue. At Least I can paste a link through Firefox.

 

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1502&authkey=!AJf3tm0JIeP2F68&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

 

Here it is again. Notice that patch of sound deadner. That must be part of theTitanium package.....

Edited March 8, 2015 by Darkside

[Darkside]

Off to the Auto Show. More pics and info to come. If someone can find that part number maybe we can figure out what it is. I could not find it.

[TonyHzNV]

Your links showed up OK. It's been my experience on this forum that it's best to use the Chrome browser, not IE.

 

As far as what that is, see here: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9602-ffh-factoids-parts-quiz/?p=90717 Thanks, GrySql!

Edited March 8, 2015 by TonyHzNV

[Darkside]

I'm not referring to the Sony amp but the smaller box right below it. I couldn't find any reference to that.

[TonyHzNV]

I'm not referring to the Sony amp but the smaller box right below it. I couldn't find any reference to that.

OK I'll see what I can dig up in a bit. Gotta go for now.

[TonyHzNV]

I'm not referring to the Sony amp but the smaller box right below it. I couldn't find any reference to that.

It would appear that the box you are talking about is the Digital Audio Control Module (DACM) C. Check the connectors going to it. They should be 4820A and 4820B if I'm right. This module has to do with both the Noise Cancellation System (ANC) and your Sony Audio. The larger box above it with the Sony Logo is known as the Audio Digital Signal Processing (DSP) Module, a fancy name for your Sony Amp. It's connectors are 4326A, B and C. Needless to say, you need both of these modules for the system to work. What exactly are you trying to add/modify?

C4820A.pdf

C4820B.pdf

Edited March 9, 2015 by TonyHzNV

[Darkside]

I am adding a new DSP, Amp and Speakers. That is interesting. I "had" it planned out... Can you post the actual diagram that has the wire flow from those two connectors? I really appreciate your help and if you were closer I'd surely bring you some beers!!

[TonyHzNV]

I am adding a new DSP, Amp and Speakers. That is interesting. I "had" it planned out... Can you post the actual diagram that has the wire flow from those two connectors? I really appreciate your help and if you were closer I'd surely bring you some beers!!

The wire flow from C4820B is on pg 4 of 4 of my original post of diagrams for Sony Audio. The flow from C4820A is shown on the attached diagram. Hope this helps.

C4820 Diagram.pdf

Edited March 9, 2015 by TonyHzNV

[Darkside]

TonyHzNV -Thank you again.

 

So I have my fusion tore down :-( a couple observations and thoughts. It is pretty much a given that some tab will break in trying to remove panels and inside trim and this was no different. It appears that because of the side curtain air bags they use a different clip around the parcel rear side windows. I broke one plastic part the clips actually connect to and bent the snot out of both clips so I will be gluing a tab and probably buying new clips for each side. No other surprises to mention and I do have pics of most of this as well.

Just because I am doing this and sharing MY experience remember if anyone dares/cares to follow you do so at your own risk. Before I started pulling door panels off I disconnected the HVB and then the negative off the 12v battery. I HAD considered running a 4 gauge wire from the jump post under the hood to the rear of the car.

The Sony speakers...They are all 25 watt speakers and all 4 ohm except the rear subs 2.3 ohm. The speakers themselves aren't as bad looking as I expected. I expected those tiny magnets on the back of the door speakers that are about the size of 10 stacked quarters. These are actually 20 oz magnets and are the same size magnets as the Kicker 6 1/2 component speakers I have for replacement. Speaking of size, the guys in China must have a different size ruler for measuring.....I have pics I'll post. The Sony woofers I pulled out are 6 1/2" exactly and my new "replacement" 6 1/2" Kickers are actually less than 6" across (not impressed by that) but size isn't everything right? So why didn't I go with Polk's? I was going to but I couldn't find low profile 8" subs to match and I preferred to keep the same brand speakers with same specs (ohms, and sensitivities).

I know I will need to disconnect the mic's for the ANC and now I may just disconnect at the DACM (Thanks Tony!), I probably will also just disconnect the center speakers as well. I plan on hooking my MS-8 into the high level outputs of the Sony Amp and the new Amp I purchased into the MS-8 as well. The MS-8 has a 25 Amp fuse and the new Amp requires 80 Amp fuse, 105 additional Amp draw at max volume. I am adding a second battery that the new equipment will be connected to and I'll charge that battery off our little 12v battery. I do not believe it will be an issue, I have an isolator to be sure it does not run down the 12v battery.

I have been doing allot of research and was thinking I can't believe Hybrids especially Fords :-) are not used more in say taxi use or even police cars. It appears they do actually use them in NY for taxi's but not as a police cars, because our hybrids would not be the best for high speed pursuits. To me that was interesting, why? Have you ever looked at all extra electrical that goes into either a taxi or police car? Between the radios, and lights they are a pretty large amp draw and no where have I found that to be the issue with our hybrids. Also as some have noted you can jump start another vehicle with our hybrids, so it has the power. Now looking at all these wiring diagrams, 175 amps is what our DC/DC converter can put out at least, based on fusing. Now here is the "Interesting" part I noticed after pulling the panel off where the 12v battery is. It is getting power and has a 200 amp fuse going to the electrical and charging system, but the best part is, it ALSO has a 120 amp fused connector right next to that one and guess what that is connected to? Nothing, but guess where I am going to tap in now....

I'll post pics later. I am on lunch break at work and only have IE to work with.

So comments?

Edited April 27, 2015 by Darkside

[Darkside]

As promised. Pics, well links anyways.

First here is the stuff I purchased. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1484&authkey=!ACH_gGff67ep38I&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

and this https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1483&authkey=!APXy3_FCb5SVO9Q&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

Here is the 12v battery positive terminal fused with a 200 amp and a 120 amp. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1486&authkey=!AHhb_J5A3j9GmWw&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

Rear view with trunk panels removed. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1503&authkey=!ABxQXP3hnoLmq6M&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

Kicker component woofer. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1510&authkey=!AF6Sk9YjqlZroug&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

Sony stock woofer. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1511&authkey=!AJ3A2tTT4iwz6oY&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

Sony and Kicker next to each other front side. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1512&authkey=!AEkYc253rVYPFWc&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

Sony and Kicker rear side. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1513&authkey=!AAnS7NAg_PErC_g&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

Front passenger door with Sony speaker still installed. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1508&authkey=!AD41e80x09TGhdE&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

Rear passenger door with speaker removed. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1507&authkey=!AEVzSCJGwg5-B0Q&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

I have images of how I got through the doors with the new wiring. I ran 12 guage wiring and WHY I ran 12 guage I really cannot justify and personally think I could have used a smaller guage when I look at the cross over wires and crossover used maybe 16 guage.

And for those that think I am giving up space in my trunk? Think again, when I am done I will actually have a little more space then stock. It will take me some time to complete all this.

I mentioned removing the ANC active noise cancelation stuff which I think is kind of gimmicky and I will replace this "active" sound cancellation with passive sound cancellation....NVX sound deadening, I have never used it before but I intend to give it a try since I plan on keeping this car for some time.

Edited March 9, 2015 by Darkside

[acdii]

NYC uses FFH, and I did see one as a *cough* taxi in Chicago. I see a LOT of Camry hybrid and Prius as taxi, and much rather see those than our FFH, let the taxi fleets lower the value on the toys instead of the Fords.

[Automate]

It's mainly concerned with the high voltage wiring / safety but you still may want to take a look at this since you are making so many changes http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9772-2015-fusion-hybrid-energi-publications/?p=94563

[Darkside]

I am close to being done. I still need to fine tune the MS-8, not sure if I should set any filters on the JL amp? any MS-8 experts out there? I still need figure out where and mount the JBL control screen in front (possible in the glove box) and I need to get rid of the dreaded power off pop because of the new amps when I turn off the power. I'm sure if I can find an accessory power source that runs off the radio, it is actually called something else on our hybrids it isn't accessory as in the old days but run power or something like that. Tony can you look through your wiring diagram and see if you can find a run power source (when your vehicle is not running and on accessory)? Pics soon...

[TonyHzNV]

Darkside: here is the fuse box info I told you I would post while waiting for your answer on type of ignition, push button or not. You can glean a lot of information from these diagrams anyway and you may not need anything else. You'll have to let me know. I have also included a couple component location view drawings. The Body Control Module (BCM) is located at A-6 on the drawing on the BCM Loc View. The Battery Junction Box (BJB) is located at C-D 6 on the BJB Loc View.

 

Edit: On the chance that you don't have push-button start, here's a starting system diagram for you. Maybe that will help too.

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg1_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg2_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg3_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg4_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg5_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg6_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg7_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_Fuse_Box_Info_Pg8_of_8.pdf

2014_FFH_BCM_Loc_View.pdf

2014_FFH_BJB_Loc_View.pdf

2014_FFH_Start_Sys_WOPB.pdf

Edited March 21, 2015 by TonyHzNV

[Darkside]

TonyHzNV,

 

I do have the push button start. I didn't know you could even get a keyed version? Anyway, sorry I missed where you asked me what type I have. I'll look through these and see what I can come up with. I believe because of the "CAN" connections etc. through these fusions that I may just have to live with only being able to listen when in "ON" mode. Let me look, other than that I am VERY pleased with my setup.

Tony PLEASE post the "Push Button Start" flow chart as you did with the keyed version.

Edited March 21, 2015 by Darkside

[TonyHzNV]

I do have the push button start. I didn't know you could even get a keyed version?

 

Anyway, sorry I missed where you asked me what type I have.

 

Tony PLEASE post the "Push Button Start" flow chart as you did with the keyed version.

1) It is standard on the HyTi's, but could possibly be deleted on request?

 

2) I sent you a PM. You should have seen a little red envelope at the top of the page to the left of your name.

 

3) I'll post the PB start diagram when I get home later, but it's not really gonna show you anything like the key version already posted. It doesn't show like Run/Start, Run/Acc, etc. You'll see. I would recommend that you either tap into the fuses for equipment that you eliminated or make use of some of those "not used" fuses. I don't know how many amps you need but something in there is bound to work for you.

[TonyHzNV]

OK, Darkside, here's your push-button start diagram. I don't think it's going to be much help, but maybe you know something I don't! Good luck. Sorry it's so late. Got busy.

2014_FFH_W_PB_Start.pdf

[Darkside]

Thanks again Tony, You weren't kidding when you said it wouldn't be much use. Thanks for posting it though. For those of you that are adding any kind of amps and need to disconnect the ANC, don't bother pulling your headliners down and possibly damage them, just pull the cover on the right rear in your trunk and the little box that looks like an amp (not the THX guys you actually may have three boxes back there) it is the one I asked Tony about. All you have to do is unplug it there. No ANC.

Recall I said I would have more room than others after adding all this stuff, how is that possible? Take a look. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1540&authkey=!AJJ9JRqaHaLW_ZE&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG I have more clearence than I did before.

Edited March 23, 2015 by Darkside

[Darkside]

Interested in where I put a second battery that actually runs these two extra amps? Take a look https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1546&authkey=!AHcwLx767toz6Q0&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG Wanna know how I am keeping it charged? Not the plug in charger in the last pic but from the low voltage battery? Take a look...https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1549&authkey=!ANUDR6QsygVrO9U&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG What is it going to look like when I am done? Take a look. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1551&authkey=!AHF0BxIhcQ1HRQ8&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG and the blue light you see in the next pic glowing is the low voltage battery saying it is charged and now is charging my added amp battery. I just used my trickle charger to verify that it actually would charge the second battery as I planned. Here it is. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1553&authkey=!AC0e0LJmyiUkNrU&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG and the sub control and JBL display's home. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9092D9D8E18CD13!1556&authkey=!AFfGgrD5aqT36Qc&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG

I'll show you the other side with ALL the amps when I get done. So you can see that the only thing you'll "see" is the two controls I added.

Edited March 22, 2015 by Darkside

[Darkside]

Oh and I can also use that second battery to jump start my vehicle in the off chance that the main low voltage battery goes dead. The battery doctor will disconnect itself when the main battery voltage drops. Added bonus....

Other random thoughts. Our Sony amp that mine came with has 18 gauge wires powering it, so it doesn't take much power and it also doesn't put out much power and why they ran two 18 gauge wires each for power and ground when power is going to follow the path of least resistance and both these connections are supplied by one common power up stream and then split off. Makes no sense to me.

Edited March 22, 2015 by Darkside

[GrySql]

Darkside, that is amazing work, cudos.

[md13ffhguy]

Yes, impressive engineering job!

[TonyHzNV]

Darkside, that is amazing work, cudos.

Yup, yup, what he said!

 

Yes, impressive engineering job!

AND what he said too!

 

Smokin' job, man! Hope you find where to hook up your sparks!

[Darkside]

Thanks guys. I am pretty pleased with the hidden install myself. Out tuning the system tonight and noticed I had a rattle when I turned it up and I am like really a dang rattle after all this work..... LOL sunglasses in the overhead storage......

I have to admit at first I wasn't too pleased with the sound, but now I got her dialed in allot better and now it is way better then stock, wow. I walked in the house from the garage and told the wife I got that thing rock'n now...She said I know I could hear it in here. Just need to get rid of that thump when she turns off and that fix should arrive tomorrow :-)

Edited March 25, 2015 by Darkside

[Darkside]

So I got rid of the turn off pop. Using a delayed power fuse for the amp turn on (Not the amp enable as others have found). So far of course I have lost the ability to listen to music without using accessory mode. I haven't given up yet though. I also noticed using the amp enabler wire at first that the amp could just power up from opening the trunk or door without turning on the radio.