I found your original post and it was eerily similar to mine. I have been struggling these past 3 weeks. I have a 2013 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium. It has been wonderful. My typical routine is to plug it in at night time and go on my merry way come morning. A few weeks ago I went to leave work and when I got outside I couldn't get into the car. It was dead. My first move was to chance the key FOB battery. That wasn't the problem. I figured out how to open the door with the backup manual key in my fob and I got a jump. I was able to make it home. The next morning, dead. We took it to the dealer. He said he refreshed the modules. Started up fine. Took it to work. Came out at the end of the day, dead. Needed a jump. Took it to the dealer again. They had it for 5 days. I told them to pay attention to the sound of the fan running in the rear. It doesn't seem to stop and I thought this might be draining the battery. I told them about my charging routine so they could try to replicate the fault. They said they tried to replicate the fault and it wouldn't fail they also said they went ahead and reset the modules again. I picked up the car and had no problems except I ran an experiment. I did not charge my car for days. It ran and restarted with no problems. Last night I charged my car. This morning it was dead. I believe the fault lies somewhere in me charging that battery in the rear and some fan or some element is not shutting off when the charging is complete.... or something. I am furious at this point because I can't go on having to jump my car whenever I want to use it or whenever I want to charge it. I didn't pay for a car that has capabilities I cannot use. I am driving around with jumper cables in my passenger seat because I can't open the trunk when it's dead. I also am not locking my car for now because I am sure it will be dead when I go to use it this afternoon and I don't want to go through the trouble again of using the manual key. Can anyone offer insight? I am about ready to call and yell at the folks at Ford, call my car a lemon and demand a new rear battery and components. I am frustrated. Thanks for listening. Any insight or advice is appreciated. Also, is there an override to getting my car into neutral at all? That would be helpful when dead if I am in my garage...
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Posted 27 October 2016 - 07:27 AM
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Posted 27 October 2016 - 07:49 AM
Does MFM work? There are reports of the data transceiver, that connects to the AT&T cell network, getting into a state that runs down the 12 volt battery.
Has the TSB been done that insulates the wires in the trunk that are located just in front of the 12 volt battery? They can rub on metal and cause a short.
When charging of the HVB is complete the EVSE may remain connected to charge the 12 volt battery.
There is a way to open the trunk when the 12 volt battery is dead. Connect a small piece of rope to the emergency release handle for the trunk lid. Put the other end of the rope behind the fold down rear seats.
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Posted 27 October 2016 - 10:45 PM
As Murphy asked, is your My Ford Mobile connecting ok?
It could be that your Telematics Control Unit/modem has gone bad and needs to be replaced in order to connect again to MFM. It will try repeatedly and drain your 12V battery if not plugged in and if your battery is old. There was a TSB 15-0028, later superseded by TSB 16-0023, to replace faulty TCUs that were causing drained 12V batteries. That TSB also involved insulating some cables in the left trunk coming from the 12V to the HVB fans. There is also an FSA 15N04 to replace the TCU/Modem with a 3G one and you can find that notice on your Ford owner account.
Mention the TSB and FSA to your SA if you get a new battery. I just went through this last weekend with my 2013 FFE.
Posted 12 December 2016 - 04:55 PM
A little over 2 years into owning the car now and began to have battery issues this weekend. I noticed Saturday during Christmas shopping, that the dashboard took 5 seconds to display when starting the car twice. I thought it was strange but didn't think it was anything serious. Sunday morning I go out to change the mats to all weather and I see MFT show the battery saving message. I go to start the car and nothing happens. Since it was Sunday, I could not go to any Ford service center since they were all closed. I had the car jumped from roadside assistance since I had to stop at one place for an hour. When going back to the car, it started but the dashboard took a long time and the chimes were harsh.
I went to an auto store and picked up one of those battery jumps knowing i'll have trouble the next morning. Good thing I did since the battery was dead this morning. I went right to the dealer before work. After waiting 2 hours, they said one of the cells went bad and replaced the battery under warranty. I noticed it is a MAX labeled battery so maybe it will be better.
Posted 17 February 2018 - 02:40 PM
Thanks, this forum is helpful.
I have a 2013. Today I took a look at the lead-acid battery in my trunk, just to make sure the terminals aren't corroded in any way. All looks good, but it got me to wondering what life-expectancy I can anticipate out of the conventional battery. My vehicle is now about 4-1/2 years old.
I typically replace batteries before the 4th or 5th winter on my non-hybrid vehicles. But the conventional battery on the hybrid doesn't get much strain, since it isn't used to crank the engine.
Has anybody had any experience with a failure of the conventional battery?
Posted 17 February 2018 - 07:26 PM
The battery does not get hit with a high current draw since it is not used to start the engine. However if the car is not driven every day the continuous load of the computers, that are never turned off, can drag the battery down to a low charge level.. That is very bad for a starter battery, which is what Ford installed in the car. They should have installed an AGM battery but they cost a lot more. If your battery is still working after 4-/2 years you must be driving it every day. My car can sit for a week without being driven. I got rid of the "starter battery" in the fall of 2013 and put in an AGM battery. I use a smart, it knows what an AGM battery is, battery charger to keep the battery charged when the car is not being driven.
Have the battery load tested with at least a 100 amp load to gauge its condition.
Posted 18 February 2018 - 11:42 AM
My 12v battery lasted 5yrs and if think 160K mi.
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