hsk8te2006

Here is some additional info: The folks at my Ford dealership did indicate that the battery was not performing at full capacity even after they had rebalanced it, and they had attribute that to the age of the battery. However, they also told me since the computer was not throwing a code saying the battery had failed, that Ford currently would not authorize an in warranty replacement of the battery. I would be willing to suggest very strongly that whether or not the computer is detecting a fault in the system, or detecting the end of the battery life, that if the battery is only performing at half of its original performanc (and I do have their tests to show it was only at about 58%), that it should be replaceable under warranty.

Update: The dealer contacted ford Engineering to make sure they were servicing the battery correctly, and they had me come back in because apparently the mechanics didn't realize they needed to configure the battery re-balancing system specifically for my 2010 model. Anyway, they re-balanced it again, and it is now 90% back to normal. Bottom line takeaway message: To fix this issue of no EV power from not "storing it correctly" (which per the owner's manual would have included running the vehicle for 10 minuets every 30 days and disconnecting the negative 12V battery cable in-between monthly idles), take your vehicle to your Ford dealer and have them re-balance your HV battery, asking them to make sure they configure the system for your specific model and model year. This will cost approx. $400 - $450, depending on the dealer, but it works.

The dealer explained they were able to fix this and shared it was caused by the vehicle sitting and not being driven or at least having the engine run regularly. Specifically the cells in the battery had become unbalanced and charged at different levels which prevented the battery system from properly identifying how to charge the battery but it also did not have enough power in the cells to run the electric motor to drive the car. They serviced it by rebalancing the battery cells. I had to leave the car them overnight and the cost was $407 at my local dealer, but it now works and drives as it should. I hope this information is helpful!

I am also having the exact same problem! I took it to my dealer for them to look at it, and they are saying the battery will not charge correctly and they are suggesting I must not have followed the owner's manuals storage instructions (in my own words): Run the engine for a minimum of 10 minutes every month it's in storageDisconnect the negative battery terminal any time it will be stored for 30 days or longerThey are also saying that if the battery needs replacing it will no longer be covered by warranty since the warranty states it does not cover high voltage battery damage due to improper vehicle storage. Did the two of you follow these storage instructions from the owner's manual while storing your FFH? Can anyone else chime in here on if these symptoms would actually happen due to storing without following these steps? Further, does anyone know if the vehicle keeps a log of times it is turned on and off so we can verify we followed these instructions?

I just started having an almost identical set of symptoms on my 2010 FFH - have you figured yours out yet?