wbalester Report post Posted January 14, 2015 Bought my 2010 FFH last Feb. with 69K miles, from a local dealer. On the ride home it got 41 mpg, in the snow. Since then has run perfectly. Generally averaging 38-40 mpg, which was fine. However, in September, I noticed the mpg per trip was dropping, and the overall mpg along with it. Recently, since about Thanksgiving, the mileage is consistently below 30 mpg per trip, sometimes as low as 20. Long term MPG is below 32. No check engine light or other indication of any problem. Took it to a dealer, different one from where I bought it, and they could find no problem. Charged me $100 for nothing. Just turned 80K miles. Seems to be running maybe a little rougher than when I got it, but still is just fine. Has anyone else experienced anything similar? And is there a list anywhere of technicians who are better than others at diagnosing hybrids, listed by locality or region? Could this be transmission related instead of engine? Anything? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted January 14, 2015 Cold winter weather ! 1 hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easy Rider Report post Posted January 14, 2015 Cold winter weather !And this is a dead serious reply.It has been discussed just this winter in maybe a dozen different threads and some more from previous years.Please look for those discussions. Also, tire pressure is another big factor and it goes down when the temperature does. So.....air your tires up to at least the recommendation. +4 is better for mileage but your ride might suffer.Put a bottle of Techron in the gas and then wait for spring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
md13ffhguy Report post Posted January 15, 2015 Go to fuelly.com and research your year and model, and see how others' month to month figures vary, particularly if they're in your same region. That may give you a better feeling for whether or not your experience is in the realm of normal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted January 16, 2015 Also get your plugs changed, they have 80K miles on them, rough running is a good indication of a misfire from worn plugs. Also a good time to replace the air filter if you haven't done so. these and the above tips will help your car get back to mid 30's in winter. Dont expect to see 40 for a while, not until temps are above 40. My prior car was also a 2010 FFH, and I would see 34 in winter, 42 in summer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) A misfire will cause a message or warning light. Actually any power stroke 20% below average on a continuous basis. In cold weather the ICE often sounds like it's laboring more Headwinds cost 3 mpg per 10 mph. Cold weather costs 2 mpg per 10 º F. Wet roads can cost 3 - 10 mpg. Winter's a Birch ! Do the 2013+s have a replaceable air filter? The 2010-12s do not. Edited January 16, 2015 by lolder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted January 16, 2015 CEL only occurs when the misfire is continuous. A bad plug may only misfire occasionally, which wont set a code. My Freestyle did that once, where it would stumble for a moment while driving, went on like that for 10 miles. Got to where I was going, did what I had to do, then on the drive home, stumbled some more, still no CEL. I floored it THEN I had a CEL, and it was a misfire on #4. I had my scangauge on all the time looking for the code. I swapped out the coil pack between 4 and 5, no more stumble or CEL since, so may have just been corrosion in the coil from sitting. Still wouldn't hurt to change out the plugs at 80K. I mean the first 13 FFH had to have them replaced at 4500 miles. :) Oh that one stumbled too and no CEL until I pushed it hard, then it only flashed, wasn't until a day later that it went solid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted January 16, 2015 I think the present misfire detection is pretty sensitive but just a few won't set it off. If they are continuous the system may even shut the injector off to prevent catalytic converter overheating. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybridbear Report post Posted January 17, 2015 Do the 2013+s have a replaceable air filter? The 2010-12s do not.Are you talking about the ICE air filter? How could a car not have a replaceable air filter for the ICE? For the 2013+ it is super easy to access and replace. I believe Jeff did a detailed how-to in the maintenance section of the forum. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easy Rider Report post Posted January 17, 2015 Do the 2013+s have a replaceable air filter? The 2010-12s do not.Wait......what ???? If you are talking about filtering the air entering the engine, I quite assure you that it DOES have a replaceable filter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
md13ffhguy Report post Posted January 17, 2015 Wait......what ???? If you are talking about filtering the air entering the engine, I quite assure you that it DOES have a replaceable filter.The OP refers to a 2010 FFH, which may have been equipped with what Ford considered a lifetime engine air filter. I've read about it on here in the past. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrySql Report post Posted January 17, 2015 We've had this 'long life' non-user serviceable air cleaner discussion before. Sure, it can be serviced but the 2010 Owner's Manual states it is a Dealer or qualified Tech serviced item.Whether the car owner wants to take it apart and see if they can service it is up to them.-2010 Owner's manual: "AIR FILTER Your vehicle is equipped with a long life air filter. The air filter is designed to last the life of the vehicle. See your authorized dealer or a qualified technician for replacement. The technician can check the diagnostics system for the possibility of an excessively dirty air filter. " Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easy Rider Report post Posted January 17, 2015 OK but NONE of that means that it is "not replaceable". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted January 17, 2015 It's buried down in the ducting and is not designed to be "replaceable". Of course anything is replaceable with enough effort. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted January 17, 2015 Especially the entire car. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wbalester Report post Posted January 22, 2015 Thanks for the input. Everything but changing the plugs was taken care of before I posted the first one last week. The weather conditions, cold, rain, snow, etc., were not this magnitude of problem last winter. Just a small drop similar to what everybody seems to experience. It all started late summer, early fall. I'm consistently getting about 22 mpg city right now, and took a road trip last week, 650 miles round trip, stayed below 65 mph, and averaged less than 36 mpg, little or no precipitation. So, now I'm gonna change the plugs and see if that helps. I'll let you know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wbalester Report post Posted April 30, 2015 Ok. Here's the answer. While on an extended road trip recently, my check engine idiot light came on while accelerating from 65 mph. The day before, the car had started shuddering slightly when accelerating from stop, but no engine light. Took car to a local shop, they plugged in the computer and codes said one bad coil. Changed the coil and car has run correctly ever since. Mileage back up where it should be. The question now is, Why didn't the engine light come on sooner? Seems to me a bad coil should be sensed immediately. I ran the car for 6-7 months with a bad coil and 25% poorer mileage than I should have, but with no indication. Somethings not right here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
md13ffhguy Report post Posted May 1, 2015 Well, glad you got it fixed. Can we assume the "local shop" is not a Ford dealer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted May 2, 2015 Hmm if NOT a Ford dealer, maybe he found a real mechanic! LOL I am so fed up with the wacky braking I turned off the brake coach since no matter how I try to stop I can rarely get 100%. Last trip I took in it I said screw it and just braked like a normal car, at least now I can stop at the line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwr Report post Posted May 2, 2015 Hmm if NOT a Ford dealer, maybe he found a real mechanic! LOL I am so fed up with the wacky braking I turned off the brake coach since no matter how I try to stop I can rarely get 100%. Last trip I took in it I said screw it and just braked like a normal car, at least now I can stop at the line. I've no such problem with my 2015 FFH. Is that a remaining problem with the 2013 models? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
md13ffhguy Report post Posted May 2, 2015 I've no such problem with my 2015 FFH. Is that a remaining problem with the 2013 models?So far, it's just an acdii problem, hopefully for the rest of us. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted May 2, 2015 Yeah, when the surge while turn happens to you, you will know! :) So far I have only heard of one other person experiencing this, so hopefully it is isolated to a very small group of cars, better yet, hopefully Ford can find the cause and fix it. The other braking problem I have may just be the SOC on my batteries, though for at least 40K miles the SOC has always been high and I don't recall having the brakes do what they do. It is very strange what they do, one time, 60-0 good solid brake feel, moderate pedal pressure, in fact have to lighten up a touch so I actually make it to the stop sign before stopping, 100%, then there are other times where same amount of pedal pressure, the car just doesn't feel like it is slowing, and have to apply more and more pressure to get it to slow, and the only way to get 100% is to let the car slow down with little pressure or hydraulics kick in and I get a low score. I have seen it happen though with HVB at 50%, so question whether or not it is SOC related. Couple with the surge while turning, if I can't get the car to slow down enough on regen then hit the turn going a little faster than I should, the surge is quite noticeable, in fact it will push the nose to the left on a right turn, or right on a left turn. In both cases though, if you are not accustomed to driving this car every day, you would never notice it. I had to take the SM out and point out what the complaint is on the surging while turning. I can get it to happen almost any time in either direction, and at any speed. Rough guess is there is a problem with the brake pedal and some sensor tied into the steering. They may be related, or may be totally separate issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
