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MFT 3.5.1 update

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I just had the 3.5.1 update applied by the dealer for my 2013 Fusion Hybrid with Nav. The paper I got back states "Reprogram PCM ABS APIM Module with NAV per recall". Is it possible that this update could have altered the ICE engine control mapping? I seem to hear a louder intake sound when applying heavy throttle to enter freeway traffic. Anyone have any thoughts this update could improve fuel mileage or power? Anything other than the MFT system?

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Is it possible? Sure. But is it likely? No.

 

More likely something else was done without being documented/realized. Either that or you're imagining it.

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You might want to check the intake/air cleaner to make sure they put it back together right after an "inspection"....

 

Just a thought.

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I just had the 3.5.1 update applied by the dealer for my 2013 Fusion Hybrid with Nav. The paper I got back states "Reprogram PCM ABS APIM Module with NAV per recall". Is it possible that this update could have altered the ICE engine control mapping? I seem to hear a louder intake sound when applying heavy throttle to enter freeway traffic. Anyone have any thoughts this update could improve fuel mileage or power? Anything other than the MFT system?

 

I doubt the MFT update on its own will have any effect but they could have change /update something else.Are you seeing any improvement in fuel economy?

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PCM = Power-train Control Module

 

ABS = Anti-Lock Brakes

 

APIM = Accessory Protocol Interface Module

 

Maybe they updated a bit more than just MFT? If there was an update on the Power-train software maybe that changed how your ICE sounds when giving it the go ahead.

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Nope, just the car's mood at that point in time. Did not do it again this past week. Fuel mileage still same. Guess there was no update to the Power Train Control Module. The 2.5 liter in my 2010 seems to have been a more efficient ICE than the 2.0 liter in this 2013. Either that or my particular set of High Voltage batteries is below par and requires more power to charge them. Just can't compete with many of you other guys on the forum with later build vehicles. I used all the tricks to get the over 40 tanks around the city. The instant mileage on my UltraGauge drops to less than 20 mpg when going 45mph on eco-cruise and the ICE kicks in because of low battery level in the HV. Doesn't take much of that to pull the overall mileage back below 40. Well, I can get 50 on one down and back to near Norman, OK from OKC on Sooner Road (speed limit 50). Drop over west to I-35 at 65 (eco-cruise) and get 38 for same distance. Not too bad but below many others. Still a very nice car. See what you have to pay to get all the "driver assist" features in any other brand.

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Nope, just the car's mood at that point in time. Did not do it again this past week. Fuel mileage still same. Guess there was no update to the Power Train Control Module. The 2.5 liter in my 2010 seems to have been a more efficient ICE than the 2.0 liter in this 2013. Either that or my particular set of High Voltage batteries is below par and requires more power to charge them. Just can't compete with many of you other guys on the forum with later build vehicles. I used all the tricks to get the over 40 tanks around the city. The instant mileage on my UltraGauge drops to less than 20 mpg when going 45mph on eco-cruise and the ICE kicks in because of low battery level in the HV. Doesn't take much of that to pull the overall mileage back below 40. Well, I can get 50 on one down and back to near Norman, OK from OKC on Sooner Road (speed limit 50). Drop over west to I-35 at 65 (eco-cruise) and get 38 for same distance. Not too bad but below many others. Still a very nice car. See what you have to pay to get all the "driver assist" features in any other brand.

 

I'm in the same camp. The car is wonderful, but I'm not seeing the numbers the others here see. Yesterday I got mine back from the dealer and there was a noticeable drop in mileage performance-- was only hitting 23 mpg on my trip back to work whereas I'd usually see at least 35 by that point. I called the service manager who didn't have much to offer and we agreed I'd keep an eye on it. It slowly got better and I suspect now there was a severe drain to the battery during the servicing that was done.

 

There is a TSB out about some Fusions having problems holding a charge in the 12V battery. Outside of a dead battery, though, I'm not sure how one would know if this were a problem with their car. It certainly could affect mileage, though. I'm wondering if this could be part of why my car doesn't quite perform as well as some of the others.

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Actually, i had a number of the "battery saver" messages and started using my digital voltmeter to check the battery. Found that it would be around 13 volts after driving enough to believe it was fully charged. After sitting overnight it would be at 11.8 or below 12 for sure. Should be at 12.4 to be considered a full charge. I replaced the 12v battery with one that fit the bottom holder and strapped it in like my boat batteries. Not so easy to fit a standard battery in here due to it being in the trunk. Hard to get out and it has a vent hose for fumes to be carried out of the trunk. I built a plexiglass box over the new batteries vents and plugged in Ford's vent hose. I got double the cold cranking amps (even tho it doesn't crank) and dont get the battery saver messages now. I figured Ford would replace with the same light duty battery if i managed to convince them it needed replacing. Of course this did not help my fuel mileage!

 

You really don't need much capacity. Just enough to trip a relay. Voltage jumps to 14.2 as soon as you turn the switch on as the high voltage battery takes over everything. I just like to play with MFT and Nav things from the accessory position without the pesky saver messages.

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Actually, i had a number of the "battery saver" messages and started using my digital voltmeter to check the battery. Found that it would be around 13 volts after driving enough to believe it was fully charged. After sitting overnight it would be at 11.8 or below 12 for sure. Should be at 12.4 to be considered a full charge. I replaced the 12v battery with one that fit the bottom holder and strapped it in like my boat batteries. Not so easy to fit a standard battery in here due to it being in the trunk. Hard to get out and it has a vent hose for fumes to be carried out of the trunk. I built a plexiglass box over the new batteries vents and plugged in Ford's vent hose. I got double the cold cranking amps (even tho it doesn't crank) and dont get the battery saver messages now. I figured Ford would replace with the same light duty battery if i managed to convince them it needed replacing. Of course this did not help my fuel mileage!

 

You really don't need much capacity. Just enough to trip a relay. Voltage jumps to 14.2 as soon as you turn the switch on as the high voltage battery takes over everything. I just like to play with MFT and Nav things from the accessory position without the pesky saver messages.

Too bad you went through all this trouble. The TSB fixes the problem.

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If I start with a 80%+ SOC on the battery, I'll usually get 42+ mpg. Yesterday a 18 mile round trip got 44+ mpg. But then I'll always have those sub-35 MPG drives that keep my average at 37.7 mpg, which doesn't like to budge. On a longer trip last month I actually saw my average hit 38.0 mpg for the first time, but a week's worth of hometown driving afterward got it back to 37.7. I sure wish we could plug in our cars so we'd start with 90%+ SOC every morning.

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If I start with a 80%+ SOC on the battery, I'll usually get 42+ mpg. Yesterday a 18 mile round trip got 44+ mpg. But then I'll always have those sub-35 MPG drives that keep my average at 37.7 mpg, which doesn't like to budge. On a longer trip last month I actually saw my average hit 38.0 mpg for the first time, but a week's worth of hometown driving afterward got it back to 37.7. I sure wish we could plug in our cars so we'd start with 90%+ SOC every morning.

I'm seeing just about the same numbers as you are. I drove my pre-retirement commute yesterday and got 42 and 46 segments. The car just hates short trips.

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I put up with the weak battery for 2 years with my 2010. It would always drop below 12 volts in a maximum of 2 days without driving. I put a battery charger on it and on my 2013 and put them up to snuff and they still drop quickly. Combination of little battery and more than average parasitic draw I am guessing. Anyway, putting in a new battery was entertaining and easier than haggling with the dealer about it.

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PCM = Power-train Control Module

 

ABS = Anti-Lock Brakes

 

APIM = Accessory Protocol Interface Module

 

Maybe they updated a bit more than just MFT? If there was an update on the Power-train software maybe that changed how your ICE sounds when giving it the go ahead.

I had my car in last week and there was an update to the MFT 3.5.1 that I had already installed and it included a PCM and APM update... I'm not sure about the ABS system.

 

Car seems to perform the same before the update, but I haven't driven it much since I picked it up, so I will notice it more over the coming weeks.

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