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Speedometer stopped working after wrench light

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I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid - one of the earliest ones with almost 50K miles. I bought it in March of 2009. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!! I have had ZERO issues with this car until now.

Last week I noticed the yellow wrench light come on but them it went off quickly so I didn't think much of it, just wondered if it was time to get it serviced. Then the next day I had a warning on my dash that said something about a system fault with my blind spot warning system. When I turned the car off and back on that warning light went off as well. Since the technology is so advanced, I wondered if, like any computer, it just needed a reboot. No problems for weeks. Yesterday, I was coming back from a trip to see my son in college about 150 miles away when the wrench came on again. I drove the car home, with no noticable symptoms. This morning I started the car, the wrench was gone but now the speedometer no longer works. I have used the car several times today, started and shut it off several times, still no speedometer.

 

Has anyone else had this problem?

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This is the whole reason I have turned to the website tonight!!!!!

 

I've never even seen the little wrench that you are speaking off but, I often get the dash notice that the side impact system or blind spot system is not working but, I suspect this is because the lens on the camera is dirty. It usually corrects itself but, the other day I was driving down the road and noticed someone was tailgating me. I'm generally not a slow driver so I glanced down at the speedometer. It wasn't working at all! I'm faily certain it had worked on the way to work. I then wondered if my trip odometer and info providing mileage to next fuel stop were working, thinking that I migh soon run out of gas. It appears all of these gauges are working-the two trip odometers and the normal odometer are all working. The two timers are still ticking away as they have been for the last 30,000 miles. Hitting the reset button does not clear them and I have taken it to the shop at least 4 times for this problem while under warranty and finally just gave up. I was afraid to let them take the whole dash apart thinking that may cause problems in the long run. I never use them anyway and since I looked at them now it appears one is working correctly again.

 

I, like you tried turning the car off and on several times thinking the speedometer might work again but, no luck yet. It has been about a week. About 2 weeks ago it sounded as though something was rolling around in the dash. Two days later it stopped. I truly beleive that noise was a result of a chipmonk or other little rodent hiding a nut under the hood. It stopped just as mysteriously as it started.

 

My car has 52,000 miles on it.

 

Please let me know if you find anything out about the problem.

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Now that I am more than two years into owning my hybrid and driven over 100,000 km I kind of wish I had purchased the extended Warrenty for this vehicle. I am now facing a bill for replacing my instrument assembly panel for a malfunctioning speedometer of $1400.00. Say it isn't so Ford. Just when I was enjoying my ride the speedometer quits on me. Why can't it just be easier on the wallet as it is Ford's goal to save us money by going green. Paying these bills takes away the spirited feeling of owning a Ford product. As I have read your similar experience with your hybrid can you tell me what the repair was and the cost. I too experience a wrench light displaying before the speedometer quitting on me. As for the blind spot warning I too have had the experience. It clears up after a shut down then restart of the vehicle.

 

:(

Papayianni in Mississauga, Ontario, Canada

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Well, woke up today to a Fusion Hybrid that does not want to work. Period! Completely dead! No power what's so ever! Not the way I anticipated the coming holidays. :(

Looking for a tow to the dealers with a disappointed owner Monday morning.

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Maybe your 12 vdc battery is dead. Do you get any lights or dash display? If not, charge it if you can or replace it. You need to disconnect the big plastic tube behind the battery and push it out of the way to loosen the battery tie downs. To remove the tube, you need to loosen the clamp on the outer end toward the wheel well and twist it till the rubber breaks free, it sticks. Are you still in your power-train warranty?

Edited by lolder

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Thanks for reply lolder. There are no lights whatsoever. I checked the voltage of the 12 volt and it only registered 2.4 v. I took it out and brought to the dealer to test for wear. It registered an amber light in the well of the battery. Still waiting for results. Yes it was a little tight to remove from the car. As mentioned I had to remove out of the way the hose in order to have access. I thought owning a newer ride meant less time under the hood and at the dealer. Oh we'll. I will post my results here for all to read.

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Your car is three years old. Some of the cars probably sat a while on lots and there was a rash of 12 vdc batteries that had to be replaced in the first cars. I'm sure that's all that's wrong with the car. Put a new battery in and it should be fine. The Ford battery is about $120. I hope they don't rip you off. Why are you waiting?

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Thanks lolder. When your retired everything slows down. :) I did go out yesterday and picked up a new battery and put it in and behold the life of my ride not only came back but my speedometer is working again! Dealer will not benefit this time around with the suggested replacement of the display cluster panel at a price of $1400.00 plus. :) Thanks for the info on this one. I hope this experience will be of a benefit to others who may encounter a similar problem. The older battery went through a load test at the dealer and failed. When it was returned to me the voltage registered 11.7V. Up from 2.4V. The eye still registers red to amber in colour. I will connect with others who know something about regenerating these types of batteries and if necessary just say goodbye to it and recycle.

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Forgot to mention the price for the battery was more than suggested. It was $177.00 plus tax. I tried to find replacement but kept getting referred to dealer.

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I just bought a battery for $109 for my 2010 Fusion 3.0 at my local Ford dealer. $177 sounds really high.

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I guess we get suckered in up here in Canada. Even when the dollar is close to par. Costs must be up for transporting goods here. So much for free trade.

 

Happy to have my ride back!

 

 

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