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Buster1

When Does the Car Actually Run Out of Gas?

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I can't speak to how Toyota does it but the FFH will refuse to drive in EV after the HVB drops to a certain level. Turn the car off and on and you can go again for just a little bit. Repeat a few times and the HVB will drop to a point where the car will not switch at all to EV mode. At this point there should still be enough to get the ICE running again but no one can guarantee that. The computer won't let the HVB drain to a point where the cells would be damaged (this can only really be done by storage loss or a malfunction). If there isn't enough juice to get the ICE running you have to have the car towed to the dealer where they can put a special charger on the HVB to bring it up to a point where the ICE can be started.

 

No tow truck or the like can "jump" the HVB and that is the only thing that can start the ICE. There have been cases of the 12V battery going out and that can easily be jumped. The 12V system has to be "alive" to allow the high voltage system to work.

 

Jon

 

 

I would think (don't know for sure thank goodness) that both Toyota & Ford would shut the car down if the high voltage battery got so low it might cause damage to itself, never heard of a HVB being jumped. As for running the tank so low 'sludge' is sucked in isn't the fuel pickup near low point in the tank that & the sucking the pump does would pick up any crap in the tank no mater the fuel level - I can see the lack of fuel pump cooling being an issue if low fuel, but this time of year your probably okay unless on a road trip.

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For what it's worth....I can't see the value in playing nothing more than Russuian Roulette with the gas gauge. Like some have mentioned, there's just too much that can happen and cause you to damage the vehicle...... damage to the fuel pump, tank debris and no matter how new or old the car si it can and will be present. Doesn't matter if you buy from the cheapest or the most expensive of stations.....their tanks are what causes the issues.

 

Running out of gas sucks. Plain and simple. It's one thing to be new out in the world, trying to make ends meet and squeezing just hard enough to make it to work and back on fumes are days I am so glad are more than 25 years behind me. But.......... given the cost of the FFH I can't believe there are too many out there that are in this situation and as far as a thrill.......just stand on it and negotiate a couple ramp curves at 55-65mph.....now that a thrill. Firm believer that if the tank gets to 1/4 full...... fill it up. Just feel good about having 176 miles to E when it's at a 1/4 tank.

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This is a duplicate post I made in the 600 mile topic, thought I'd move it here where it makes sense.

 

Today I put 13.341 in my tank. Hermans says this is normal for him, not for me though.

Driving yesterday my 'low fuel' light came on at about 8 miles from home, I went home.

This morning with a cold car from being parked overnight, I EV'd the 1-1/2 blocks from my garage to my normal gas station, set the handle on slow/low fill and stood there - and stood there.

I began getting nervous, I'd only driven about 8 miles on the low fuel alert and as it passed 12 gallons I grabbed the handle and continued the slow fill.

Finally it clicked off at 13.34, with no extra clicks - very different!

 

This has never happened before, normally it's a battle to get 10-11 gallons in this car, I use 3 clicks at every fill, which the OM states is fine.

One time I was able to add 3.5gal of gas from the first click.

 

Could the PCM update have anything to do with this? Probably not.

 

What really worries me is that prior to this the low fuel alert would come on and indicate 40-50 DTE, not this time, I went less than 10 miles from the 'Low Fuel' alert and it was DRY.

I better keep my eye on this.

 

Edit: Yes, we have expensive gas prices...

photo_zps4fdcd990.jpg

 

 

Makes me wonder if having a cold tank has anything to do with it. Since you had no ICE action, no fuel was pumped, no evap was used, and it would have been ambient temps in the tank as opposed to heated up from driving and fuel being moved through it.

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Okay a cold tank could explain the ease of fill, which normally has always been a hot fill, and a crap shoot, one time easy the next I put 3+ gallons more in after 3 clicks.

Like you, unless traveling, I use the same two gas stations.

 

The part that confuses me is the DTE, less than 10 miles after the 'low fuel' alert I filled it to absolute capacity.

Before this I have run 10 miles past DTE (which showed 40-50 miles DTE when the light came on) and only put in 12.5 gal, the most ever.

This time, it dropped so fast that I'd have run out of gas in another few miles after the low fuel light came on - that is noticeably different that ever before.

 

Whatever the reason, I am not chancing a low fuel situation again.

I noticed that too. One moment DTE showed me well over 50 miles, then a short time later, DING low fuel, and the DTE was cut in half, yet fuel used was only a little over 10 gallons. I leave very little faith in that DTE readout and just fill when its around 1/4 tank instead.

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Point I was trying to make, my drive home is between 34 and 44 miles depending on if I drop off/pick up the kids, and or drop off/pickup the wife at her office. When I leave the office with 1/4 tank and halfway home suddenly down to 29 miles to empty, with only showing 10 gallons used out of a 13 gallon tank, then fill with 11.1 gallons, it makes one go, umm cant trust the fuel gauge. Since then I dont go below a 1/4 tank.

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What was the gauge actually showing for fuel level at these various points? For some reason, the initial 700 mile reading was certainly incorrect ( for the gen II FFH ). The DTE will increasingly approach the correct value as you approach empty as that part of the algorythm becomes the most important. What was the fuel level at the 7 m DTE?

If a figure like 700 appears again on fill-up, take it to the dealer. I'm sure the shape of the tank is compensated for and has nothing to do with the problem.

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When software updates are done, frequently many calculations are reset including the DTE. In the Gen I FFH, fuel quantity is measured to 0.1 % such as 99.9% - 00.0%. The DTE algorythm in that FFH is based on the last 500 miles mpg to reach zero DTE at about 1 gal. remaining in the tank. The "catch-up" part of the algorythm starts working when you fill the tank and start to get significantly different mpg than the previous 500 miles. If you start getting significant deviation near 0 DTE, the DTE can chang at least from about 1/2 to 2 times the actual miles driven so that you arrive at zero with some reserve. Of course it also looks at the fuel quantity remaining from the gauge. I doubt tank shape has not been taken into account. The 700 mile figure was from some glitch or reboot and shouldn't repeat. If it does, the dealer should be consulted.

Anybody that runs out of gas in this car testing the accuracy of the fuel system should have the car confiscated from them !

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