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Javelin395

Power window fuses blowing

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Hello All,

 

I'm new to the forum, but I have enjoyed reading them for quite some time.

 

I have a 2006 ford fusion and all of a sudden the power windows/interior lights fuse blew. I replace the fuse and it does not blow right away. It could last for a week or one day. I changed it one evening at work, drove home and parked the car. I locked the car with the remote and noted the puddle lamps go off. Next morning I unlocked the car with the remote and did not see any puddle lamps and sure enough, the fuse was blown.

Had this into the dealership a few times and they tell me I’ll have to wait until the fuse is blowing during replacement, that way they’ll be able to trace the fault.

Well, it’s been a month and this is not getting resolved.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I swear I was in the interior forum when I hit the new topic button..........

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Hello All,

 

I'm new to the forum, but I have enjoyed reading them for quite some time.

 

I have a 2006 ford fusion and all of a sudden the power windows/interior lights fuse blew. I replace the fuse and it does not blow right away. It could last for a week or one day. I changed it one evening at work, drove home and parked the car. I locked the car with the remote and noted the puddle lamps go off. Next morning I unlocked the car with the remote and did not see any puddle lamps and sure enough, the fuse was blown.

Had this into the dealership a few times and they tell me I’ll have to wait until the fuse is blowing during replacement, that way they’ll be able to trace the fault.

Well, it’s been a month and this is not getting resolved.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I swear I was in the interior forum when I hit the new topic button..........

 

Pull your door panels and follow the wiring...You have a dead short in there somewhere, or a window motor is over-amping. I do not know the specs for those, but if you can find them, put an amp clamp around the hot wire, and run the window up and down a couple times. Your stealership is full of crap saying they have to wait iuntil it's completely fucked before fixing it. They're just lazy.

 

Go to a different dealership if you have that option. Take it to them with a blown fuse, and say nothing else. Let them replace the fuse and think they solved a mystery, and when it blows again, take it back and have it fixed under warranty.

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Pull your door panels and follow the wiring...You have a dead short in there somewhere, or a window motor is over-amping. I do not know the specs for those, but if you can find them, put an amp clamp around the hot wire, and run the window up and down a couple times. Your stealership is full of crap saying they have to wait iuntil it's completely fucked before fixing it. They're just lazy.

 

Go to a different dealership if you have that option. Take it to them with a blown fuse, and say nothing else. Let them replace the fuse and think they solved a mystery, and when it blows again, take it back and have it fixed under warranty.

 

Can't be a dead short as the fuse does not blow right away. And I'm thinking it can't be a window motor as the windows are not being used as the fuse blows.

I did a test on the way home the other night. I replaced the fuse at lunch hour and tried the windows, moon roof and locking and unlocking the doors to get the interior lights to go off and on and the fuse did not blow. On my way home I turned on one of the interior lights and kept an eye on it as I was driving. After about 45 minutes of driving the light went out.

So it looks like I'll have to start pulling things and looking for possible rub points on the wiring.......and I may check out some of the relays.

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Can't be a dead short as the fuse does not blow right away. And I'm thinking it can't be a window motor as the windows are not being used as the fuse blows.

I did a test on the way home the other night. I replaced the fuse at lunch hour and tried the windows, moon roof and locking and unlocking the doors to get the interior lights to go off and on and the fuse did not blow. On my way home I turned on one of the interior lights and kept an eye on it as I was driving. After about 45 minutes of driving the light went out.

So it looks like I'll have to start pulling things and looking for possible rub points on the wiring.......and I may check out some of the relays.

 

So if you pull it all apart, and find a spot in the wiring that rubs now and again, what is it doing when it blows the fuse? It's SHORTING OUT, aka a DEAD SHORT. Furthermore, the window circuitry has to have power flowing through the circuit when the fuse blows, or the fuse wouldn't blow.

 

Whatever though, it's obvious you already knew it, huh...that's why you asked the question...

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It looks like FTlewis2002 is more concerned about being right than being helpful - yes there is a difference. I have been install car audio for years, and most will accept the term "dead short" to be a direct and constant short in a circuit. Guess you didn't know that...

 

The fact that your lighting is on the same circut is of interest, as it is always powered. With the key off, and fuses still blowing, this would lead me to believe this may be the source. A good place to begin is in the driver's door boot. The wires in the boot that goes between the door and the car are exposed to a tremendous amount of stress. Between the hot/cold, and constantly being flexed as the door opens and closes in these conditions, can cause a failure.

 

Replace the fuse, turn the key on, and with the door open, grab the door boot and move it around. You should try this with all doors.

 

Have you ruled out anything aftermarket, or any other work done to the vehicle? Remote starter, stereo, illuminated door sills... even a misplaced screw that is holding something else in place could be the culpret. Good Luck!

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Not trying to resurrect an old post but only posting a solution that just came to light so to speak. :)

 

After many months my intermittent short finally became a dead short and as a result, became easier to find. Took the car into the dealer to have them troubleshoot and repair the problem as I was tired of this after almost 6 months. Turns out it was the interior light circuit in the headliner. One wire that was poorly routed rubbed against a small bracket and caused all of this grief. The wire is now reinsulated and rerouted.

 

So if anyone else is suffering from gremlins like this, my car has a power sunroof so this may or may not have a bearing on this problem.

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