Seeley Report post Posted November 6, 2021 Hello I have a bunch of issues and would like to pick someone's brain. When I turn the heater on after a while of driving the car turns a light on that goes something, like stop car safely now. I think the heater ducts aren't insulated properly or something and the equipment or something under the dash is overheating. Also my fan decided to stop working the other day then after a few minutes it clicked on, then I turned it off and back on and it hasn't came back on since. I'm thinking possibly a dirty electrical connector. My ac stopped working about a month ago also. Probably needs a new pump. This is all to say I have one of those fancy big touch screens, could the climate control in it be messing up cause these issues? I am also getting a clicking on acceleration when I hit the gas past 1/8-1/4 pedal and braking it seems like the clicking happens when the engine cuts off. Maybe cv axle or shaft clicking around in trans? Plus of course I have a bad steering rack. But I know what that is and what it's going to take for that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwr Report post Posted November 6, 2021 What model year is your FFH? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Seeley Report post Posted November 7, 2021 2012 sorry thought I put that. It's the 2010-2012 model year Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Seeley Report post Posted November 25, 2021 No one has had any of these issues or has any input? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimno Report post Posted December 1, 2021 I have a 2010 and have not had anything like that. But my car is very sluggish off the line and I rarely get even 30 MPG. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MeeLee Report post Posted December 1, 2021 The TFT screen has the CPU built underneath it, and uses the screen as a heat sink. This may feel like the TFT is emanating quite some heat, especially if you're running any android auto maps like Waze on it, or play games on it. Should be less noticeable when using the ford app (radio, audio entertainment, or off). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2012 Fusion Hybrid Driver Report post Posted December 2, 2021 (edited) I also have a 2012 FFH and for the first time ever, I started getting the "STOP SAFELY NOW" warning message about 2-weeks ago after fueling up. It happened again yesterday after I'd been driving the car for 30 minutes or so while running errands and again I had just fueled up to full, adding about half a tank in new fuel. When I am accelerating through 55-60mph or above, I notice a sluggishness accompanied by a subtle jerking or hesitation. It feels exactly like what you would experience if the engine is sputtering due to inconsistent or interrupted fuel flow. Next, there are then 3 or 4 clicks in rapid succession and the warning chime sounds and the "STOP SAFELY NOW" warning message appears on the left side of my main instrument display (see attached pic). When the message appears, I immediately the power from the gasoline engine, but my EV battery is engaged so it helps me pull the car off to safety. When I pull the car off the road to a safe location, I shut everything down and remove the key. Then I restart the car and the message is gone. But when I continue driving it, the issue repeats itself in this same sequence described above, the warning message reappears and I have to go through this all over again. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening and what the fix is? Edited December 2, 2021 by 2012 Fusion Hybrid Driver Providing additional details. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2014FordFusionSE Report post Posted December 3, 2021 12 hours ago, 2012 Fusion Hybrid Driver said: I also have a 2012 FFH and for the first time ever, I started getting the "STOP SAFELY NOW" warning message about 2-weeks ago after fueling up. It happened again yesterday after I'd been driving the car for 30 minutes or so while running errands and again I had just fueled up to full, adding about half a tank in new fuel. When I am accelerating through 55-60mph or above, I notice a sluggishness accompanied by a subtle jerking or hesitation. It feels exactly like what you would experience if the engine is sputtering due to inconsistent or interrupted fuel flow. Next, there are then 3 or 4 clicks in rapid succession and the warning chime sounds and the "STOP SAFELY NOW" warning message appears on the left side of my main instrument display (see attached pic). When the message appears, I immediately the power from the gasoline engine, but my EV battery is engaged so it helps me pull the car off to safety. When I pull the car off the road to a safe location, I shut everything down and remove the key. Then I restart the car and the message is gone. But when I continue driving it, the issue repeats itself in this same sequence described above, the warning message reappears and I have to go through this all over again. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening and what the fix is? See this thread: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
murphy Report post Posted December 3, 2021 When you fill the tank do you stop when the pump nozzle clicks off? If you keep forcing fuel into the tank it will end up in a place where it is not supposed to go. I think that is the evaporative canister which is only supposed to process gasoline fumes, not liquid gasoline. I no longer own a Fusion so I'm commenting from memory. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2012 Fusion Hybrid Driver Report post Posted December 3, 2021 Thanks for your reply. No, I never overfill. When the pump stops automatically, I never try to top it off. Dropped the car off at the dealer yesterday, so they are checking it out now (or as soon as they can get to it). My hunch is that it may be a stuck EVAP valve as experienced by another FFH owner: https://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Fusion_Hybrid/2010/engine/engine_stalls_dies_while_driving.shtml#7 . His detailed post decribing his issue and solution dovetails perfectly with what I am experiencing and I'm hoping that this is my issue rather than something more elusive, complex and expensive. Even if they have to replace the EVAP valve canister, that isn't a super expensive part to replace. Fingers crossed! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarthaT Report post Posted March 14, 2022 My 2010 Milan Hybrid has been doing this for nearly two years. ALL the alarms going off. Battery (original) was replaced and that fixed it for a short while. Then it all returned, along with security lockout that kept me from starting the car. I was told to drive more to charge the 12-volt battery, which made sense, since I had not been driving much due to the pandemic. An hour of highway driving would give me just 2-3 days of normal operation. I left it with a dealer for TWO WEEKS and they found nothing. Last fall, I finally got a trickle charger and plugged it in every night. That dealt with the symptoms for several months. Now, despite nightly charging, it is only good for two starts each day, so no errand-running is possible. Also now, as soon as I start and begin to back out of the garage, I get Cross Traffic System Fault and Check Rear Park Aid notices that stay on the entire time the car is in use. Cross Traffic lights DO both come on appropriately and rear park aid works. This all started after someone smashed my driver-side mirror off and it was replaced.could that be related? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FFHinVA Report post Posted June 17, 2022 I had same issue with my 2010. I would get the Stop Safely Now after fuel fill-ups. Could be immediate or after 20 miles or so. I read in one of these forums about changing the purge valve. Tank fill up forces fumes under pressure, into cannister, purge valve is supposed to recirc vapor to engine, doesn't happen, engine trips code for shutoff. (Purge valve may be same as Evap valve) (There should be a summary of all the "Stop safely Now" causes & fixes. A flow chart would be nice. There's too much to sift through on the internet and in these forums.) Ford dealer couldn't solve. $50 part, on front of engine, 10 minutes to change out. My problem went away! Not a bad idea to change the part out anyway if over 100K miles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites