Second 12 V Battery dead after 19 months

[VILSIS]

In my 18 FFH Titanium the Ford Dealer changed my 12 V battery Motorcraft BXT-90T5-590 after 27 months in warranty. Now after 19 months the Battery Test say: Replace Battery. Voltage 12.44V, Measured: 315CCA, Rated: 590CCA, Temperature: 85°F: DTC Code 7C7 V4LX.

Motorcraft unique warranty coverages for BXT Tested Tough PLUS batteries are 36 months/ 100 months prorated. My Ford Dealer would me charge $165.00 plus tax. I refused them because I should have 36 months warranty. He told me that's only when I payed for the batterie.

I can't understand why I haven't for a replaced Battery not warranty. Where I can make a claim by Motorcraft, I could not find an address in the Homepage from Motorcraft? I appreciate your help and advices.

 

[2014FordFusionSE]

It's probably easier to try another dealer.

They'll see the date of manufacture on the battery and should replace it if needed.

[billford]

If the battery was replaced during the warranty period, then its only covered until the basic 3 year bumper to bumper warranty period ends. 

 

If its a 2018, it still may be covered under the basic bumper to bumper warranty, depending on the in-service date and mileage. 

[VonoreTn]

A voltage of 12.44 volts should not be an indicator to replace a battery.  You need to do a load test, but even that could be misleading on a hybrid 12 volt battery, because it doesn't need the high cranking amps of a conventional battery, since it doesn't have the role of starting the engine.  The engine electric motor/generator does that, using the high voltage battery.   If you put 100 amp load on the battery with the engine off, it should be OK if it doesn't drop below 10 volts.  It probably will never see 100 amp load, but as long as the engine is running, even in electric mode, the 12 volt battery will be supported at some constant level between 13.7 and 14.5 volts.   I am still on my second 12 volt battery on my 2010 FFH, at 152K miles.   The first one lasted 112K miles and 6 years. 

 

Get yourself a cigarette lighter digital voltage meter, like this one (Walmart) to see what your charging voltage is (engine running), and the engine off voltage.  My engine-on voltage on the FFH is 13.7 volts which is a good number to extend the life of the battery.  If the engine on voltage is above 14.5, it starts to be hard on the battery.  15 volts would be too high, and it would suggest an issue with the 12 volt battery engine-on regulator.  With the engine off, the battery may drop to 11.8, which would be low for a conventional non-hybrid car, but not low for a hybrid. 

 

Do you have other vehicle symptoms of the battery being bad, or just someones voltage test?

 

If your car is sitting unused for like 5 days or more, it might have slight internal voltage leakage, in which case a short charge from a trickle charger will bring it up to over 12 volts, and the computer will allow the car to start and it will be fine for several days.    I have that issue on our 2015 C-Max hybrid, and I have been nursing it along for the last 20K miles, giving it a quick charge if it sat for over 5 days, it is now at 92K miles.  It has worked fine on long trips in that time period.

 

 

 

 

[VILSIS]

On 10/9/2021 at 11:15 AM, billford said:

If the battery was replaced during the warranty period, then its only covered until the basic 3 year bumper to bumper warranty period ends. 

 

If its a 2018, it still may be covered under the basic bumper to bumper warranty, depending on the in-service date and mileage. 

Thanks billford. The pumper to bumper warranty expired on 12/14/2020.

[VILSIS]

13 hours ago, VonoreTn said:

A voltage of 12.44 volts should not be an indicator to replace a battery.  You need to do a load test, but even that could be misleading on a hybrid 12 volt battery, because it doesn't need the high cranking amps of a conventional battery, since it doesn't have the role of starting the engine.  The engine electric motor/generator does that, using the high voltage battery.   If you put 100 amp load on the battery with the engine off, it should be OK if it doesn't drop below 10 volts.  It probably will never see 100 amp load, but as long as the engine is running, even in electric mode, the 12 volt battery will be supported at some constant level between 13.7 and 14.5 volts.   I am still on my second 12 volt battery on my 2010 FFH, at 152K miles.   The first one lasted 112K miles and 6 years. 

 

Get yourself a cigarette lighter digital voltage meter, like this one (Walmart) to see what your charging voltage is (engine running), and the engine off voltage.  My engine-on voltage on the FFH is 13.7 volts which is a good number to extend the life of the battery.  If the engine on voltage is above 14.5, it starts to be hard on the battery.  15 volts would be too high, and it would suggest an issue with the 12 volt battery engine-on regulator.  With the engine off, the battery may drop to 11.8, which would be low for a conventional non-hybrid car, but not low for a hybrid. 

 

Do you have other vehicle symptoms of the battery being bad, or just someones voltage test?

 

If your car is sitting unused for like 5 days or more, it might have slight internal voltage leakage, in which case a short charge from a trickle charger will bring it up to over 12 volts, and the computer will allow the car to start and it will be fine for several days.    I have that issue on our 2015 C-Max hybrid, and I have been nursing it along for the last 20K miles, giving it a quick charge if it sat for over 5 days, it is now at 92K miles.  It has worked fine on long trips in that time period.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks VonoreTn. I ordered today cigarette lighter digital voltage meter. And I will report what I measure with them. I have the battery since new on a trickle charger when the car is not in use at home in the garage.

I don't have other vehicle symptoms that the battery get bad. Only two printed voltage tests, first from Firestone Auto Care and second from Ford Dealer, and both told me I have to change the battery.

Then I have two Voltage test (not printed) from Autozone and O'Reilly, and both told me the battery are good.

Edited October 11, 2021 by VILSIS

[VILSIS]

VonoreTn. I measured with the Car Voltage Meter; when car is powered but NOT started = 14.0 V - When car is started and is on Gas Motor + 14.3 V - When Car and Computer is OFF = trop to 11.8 V and cam back to 12.0 V. 

Edited October 18, 2021 by VILSIS

[VonoreTn]

I just sold my 2010 FFH, $5K.  Kelly Blue book said $3.9K private party given my mileage 152K.   I had more calls early than I could handle wanting to buy it immediately at $5k; sold it the same day as the ad went online.  

 

My 2015 C-Max has a 12 volt battery issue at 90K miles (6 years), it will not start after 5 days unless float charged.  It also is at 14 volts when started and drops quickly to 11.8 with engine off.  I put my 100 amp load tester across it this morning after not driving it since yesterday, and it read 10 volts.  Since that battery will never see 100 amps, that is more than enough to support the system.  But when that number gets down toward 7-8 volts, it won't support the 12 volt ignition, fuel pump and fuel injector systems, which might happen after a week of non-use, and internal battery cell low amp leakage.   I guess I will buy a new one, since I need to park at the airport for a week at Christmas.  I could probably keep this one running for another year otherwise.

Edited December 1, 2021 by VonoreTn
more info