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jerzstyle00

AC not working. Where do i start on a hybrid compressor?

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Hello. I just purchased a 2010 fusion hybrid with AC not working. I noticed it does not have a clutch and belt it seems more like an electric compressor of some sort. Tried googling but could not find help there. Can I get help on where to start on finding out why cold air is not coming out? Thanks.

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The compressor is driven by a high voltage electric motor. Check the cabin air filter. They get unbelievably dirty.

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This is probably a Ford dealer repair. It's going to cost you a lot. If it's the AC evap. sensor, here's a work around: http://www.instructables.com/id/Quick-fix-workaround-Ford-Fusion-AC-evap-sensor/

 

The filter looked good. But looks like my connector wires seem to have a different color the the ones posted by lolder. I have pics of my connector colors saved to my desktop but unable to attach them to this message. Can someone guide me on this because all i see is a green 'image' icon asking for a url. Thanks

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You have to determine what the problem is before you start to repair it. It may not be the sensor mentioned. That sensor was a problem in older Fusions.

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Take it to Ford or a reliable shop for diagnosis. This is not backyard mechanic reparable except for the work around above. The compressor is high voltage and expensive and needs special refrigerant.

Edited by lolder

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You can also get a good quality OBD scanner such as the OBDLink MX that can read the MS-CAN bus and the free https://forscan.org/ software and see the actual temperature the sensor is sending.

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I know this is an old post but having a similar problem did you happen to figure it out, i see that there is a 4 wire low voltage connector going into the electric high voltage a/c compressor does anyone know how to jump the compressor to start it? also would someone happen to have a wiring diagram for the 10-12 FFH ford fusion hybrid 

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You can check if your dash has the 'accessory power' view, in which you can see the climate control power usage.

Set your climate to the coldest temp possible.

If the climate line is anywhere past 10% (~250W) you can be sure the electric motor is working, and it'll most likely be a compressor issue.

If the line is blank (0W), it may not be a compressor issue, but could be a fuse, electric motor, or the driving circuitry.

 

Image added for illustration:

 

Screenshot_20210619-021206_YouTube.jpg

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On 6/19/2021 at 2:17 AM, MeeLee said:

You can check if your dash has the 'accessory power' view, in which you can see the climate control power usage.

Set your climate to the coldest temp possible.

If the climate line is anywhere past 10% (~250W) you can be sure the electric motor is working, and it'll most likely be a compressor issue.

If the line is blank (0W), it may not be a compressor issue, but could be a fuse, electric motor, or the driving circuitry.

 

Image added for illustration:

 

Screenshot_20210619-021206_YouTube.jpg

 

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On 6/19/2021 at 2:17 AM, MeeLee said:

You can check if your dash has the 'accessory power' view, in which you can see the climate control power usage.

Set your climate to the coldest temp possible.

If the climate line is anywhere past 10% (~250W) you can be sure the electric motor is working, and it'll most likely be a compressor issue.

If the line is blank (0W), it may not be a compressor issue, but could be a fuse, electric motor, or the driving circuitry.

 

Image added for illustration:

 

Screenshot_20210619-021206_YouTube.jpg

 

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I took my 2012 Focus Hybrid to the dealer because the a/c and blower were not working.  They told me I needed HVAC module AE5Z-19980-H, but that the part is discontinued.  They could not fix it.  I’ve been trying to locate that part, but have had no luck.

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i replaced my evap temp sensor on my 2010 gas Fusion. Took about six hours with the help of a youtube video. So far my 2010 Hybrid is working fine. You can check temps using the forscan program, that's how i diagnosed mine. Check ambient temps in the early morning before everything heats up. Most evap sensors outright fail, maybe throw a code, mine was reading about 15 - 20  degrees low. Ex. ambient 70, evap 55. This seriously cut the cooling down. At the time, dealer wanted between 800 and 900 hundred dollars to do the job. Oem sensor cost me about 50 bucks. Involves pulling the dash back. A lot of unplugging of wires and such. Check the video.

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