Heater not working correctly

[Riggo]

I'm having a strange problem that just started last night. I should start by saying I have a 2014 FFH with My Ford Touch and Sync 2.

When I turn on my heat (in Auto mode or manual mode, and after the car has reached temp to blow hot air), the air comes out the top vents and is cold. It seems to just be blowing the outside air in, and at full blast (when in auto). When I turn the temp up to the "HI" setting, the vents switch to the lower vents and blow out somewhat hot air. If I hit the temp button and go down one degree from "HI" to "85F" or lower, the air comes back out of the upper vents and is cold. The Temperature gauge shows the engine temp right in the middle zone, so the car is heating up correctly. i took it to a local Ford dealer for the service rep to look at, he said he's never seen anything like it. The same thing happens in manual mode but the air only blows as hard as the fan setting is set to.

1. I'm wondering if anyone has any clue what this could be.

2. I'm also wondering if this is something that would be covered under the My Ford Touch Warranty that Ford extended (my warranty expired earlier this year).

My car isn't even 3 years old and has countless rattles and now this ;(. It's not exactly making me want to ever buy a Ford again.

[bdginmo]

I had something similar. In my case it would not blow any hot air even though the car was warmed up and oddly the audible chimes that occurred when when pressing any of the center console buttons stopped working. This clued me in that it was probably a software glitch. I pulled the negative battery cable off to get the computer to reboot. That got the heat working again, but there were some settings in the left instrument cluster that were no longer available so I took it into the dealer. The FCIM had to be reflashed.

[Waldo]

Yep, I'd look to get your FCIM updated. I did mine on my 2014 quite some time ago and have never had any strange climate problems.

 

BTW no rattles on my 2014 at all.

Edited March 7, 2017 by Waldo

[Riggo]

Thanks for the help! I'm going to try to take it to the dealer tomorrow with this info.

 

And I envy you Waldo. I had a 2013 that I had sent back to Ford after the smelly a/c debacle that a handful of us on this forum suffered. I got a 2014 in its place. Both of those cars had countless rattles. I figured it was just something with the build of the car, but I guess I am the lucky recipient of two duds.

Edited March 10, 2017 by Riggo

[bdginmo]

Thanks for the help! I'm going to try to take it to the dealer tomorrow with this info.

 

And I envy you Waldo. I had a 2013 that I had sent back to Ford after the smelly a/c debacle that a handful of us on this forum suffered. I got a 2014 in its place. Both of those cars had countless rattles. I figured it was just something with the build of the car, but I guess I am the lucky recipient of two duds.

 

In my case the hybrid techs were booked up so it took 2 weeks to get my car to the dealer. I started researching the problem and that's when I discovered that pulling the negative battery cable might at least get my heat going again. And sure enough it did. I told the service adviser what I did and that I thought there was still a problem. They called back later and said they had to update the FCIM. Pretty simple fix. I hope your is as simple.

[Multitask]

Mine is the 13 and just yesterday it's blowing only warm/hot air. COuld this FCIM update help with that? and if so, how much is it if it's out of any warranty?

[meez]

Just to give you an example of Ford, I had a 1995 Van with anti-lock brakes and although mine worked, i read an article where it stated " reflash anti-lock module, charge customer."

In other words - Reflashing is the same as loading software, but it is in a chip instead of a disc, so it is instantaneous loading. However, they knew the program in the chip from the factory was bad, but they still charged the customer a second time.

[lolder]

Disconnect the 12 vdc battery for a few minutes.

[Riggo]

I forgot to update this. I had the two fuses that were connected to the radio/my ford touch pulled. As soon as they were put back in the system rebooted and everything worked again.

[lolder]

It's sometimes hard to tell which fuses are involved and on the 2010-12 cars some fuses are very difficult to get at. That's why I suggested disconnecting the battery. That resets everything. These cars are just like your computer except they're not "off" until you remove the power.