Life time engine air filter?

[dds_ali]

Hello guys,

I would like to discuss the issue of the life-time engine air filter in 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid. According to the owner's manual this is a life-time filter that does not need replacement nor maintenance. However, the owner.ford,com site states that the engine air filter should be replaced at 150K miles check point! Pretty much conflict in here, right???

Which is right and which is wrong?

Does any one have an idea.. and maybe if anyone knows an expert from the ford company who could help us in this issue??

I have attached two images taken from the ford website and the user's manual...

 

[Waldo]

Ford's definition of "life of the vehicle" is 150,000 miles, so both are right.

[lolder]

The maintenance schedule page shown is a generic one. Notice it also says change the automatic transmission fluid which the FFH doesn't have. I read this all to say you never have to change the air filter ( if there even is one ) or service the transmission.

[talmy]

I'm always leery of any lifetime or long life claims. Just citing Ford products here:

• My parents '65 Ford had 30,000 mile chassis lube interval, back in the time when most cars needed lube every 1k miles or so. It turned out that you could go 30k miles, but then they installed the Zerk fittings and you were back to the 1k interval!
• Same Ford had lifetime front-end alignment. They did that be getting rid of all the alignment adjustments. When it went out of alignment the mechanic used a long bar and bent the tie rod to adjust alignment!
• On a positive note, my '93 Ranger had 100k mile plug replacement interval. When I hit 100k the dealer checked a plug, said they were all right and I didn't need to replace them. All my cars from then on all have had platinum plugs that seem to last forever.

[Waldo]

The maintenance schedule page shown is a generic one. Notice it also says change the automatic transmission fluid which the FFH doesn't have.

 

So all those shafts and splines just spin in dry contact with one another?? The Hybrid absolutely has transmission fluid, 4.05L worth of MERCON LV according to the shop manual (4.5L in the 2013+). There's even a drain and fill plug. However in the shop manual it does not mention changing either the air filter or the trans fluid at 150,000 miles.

Edited January 20, 2016 by Waldo

[thrasher086]

So the K&N washable air filter for my 2014 HyTi was probably a waste of 40 bucks since it almost doesn't need to be replaced?

[talmy]

So the K&N washable air filter for my 2014 HyTi was probably a waste of 40 bucks since it almost doesn't need to be replaced?

 

 

Come to think of it, the air filter in my '63 VW Microbus (my first car) never needed to be replaced either for the same reason.

[jeff_h]

So the K&N washable air filter for my 2014 HyTi was probably a waste of 40 bucks since it almost doesn't need to be replaced?

 

Different model year - the 2010-2012 models had a different type of air cleaner system which is designed without a filter element serviceable by regular owners, as with the 2013 and new models..

[thrasher086]

 

Different model year - the 2010-2012 models had a different type of air cleaner system which is designed without a filter element serviceable by regular owners, as with the 2013 and new models..

 

Thanks for the info Jeff. I didn't know something like that existed since all my cars always had changeable engine air filters.

[drberry]

Has anybody here replaced the lifetime air filter on their 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid?  How difficult was it to replace?  Did it help your fuel mileage enough to make it worth spending over $200 for the new air filter assembly?

[lolder]

Changing engine air filters usually does not affect fuel mileage, only total power output.

[Mark J]

I just did this replacement for my 10 Hybrid.  The service cd says to remove driver's wheel,   fender liner,  maf sensor plug,  there's a couple of clamps on the air intake plumbing,  small nut holding I think the resonator, remove the quick connects holding the vent tube,    there is a wire loom that is connected to the air box via a push connector,   remove the three nuts holding the air box,  I removed the air intake snorkel(couple of rubber clips)and then remove through the bottom. The wire loom gets in the way a bit especially with the upper nut.    Sounds easy enough,  however it's not really that way.  If you are a contortionist you may be able to get your hands up in there to get the nuts loose,  two aren't awfully bad,  the third up towards the front is the troublemaker, can't see it.  The easier way, if you are familiar or can do it,  is to totally remove the bumper cover,  or at least enough to open up the driver side and get to it that way, especially that third nut,  you can see it if cover pulled back. I used the cover pulled back method,  took an extra set of hands to hold open. Pulling the side back involves a lot less removals then the whole cover. If remove entire bumper cover you can do the whole job yourself. You can find bumper cover removal videos online,  sometimes the places that sell replacement headlights also have videos.  It's really not that hard to do,  bunch of screws, few nuts and pushpins. If you're going to go the bumper cover removal route,  i would make sure to get a pair of the side retainers, these are the pieces where the bumper cover sides snap into.  There's a small prong on the ends which could break,  I've had it happen.  They're cheap,  eleven bucks or so at the local dealer I got a great price on the air box from Levittown Ford auto parts division.  I have bought quite a few items from them over the years,  their discounts are pretty good. Some items from my local dealer. Also make sure you have a supply of replacement fender liner pins and related items if you go the bumper cover removal route. You will probably break some while  removing them. You can find the part numbers on any Ford part seller website,  then search around.  Took me about two hours,  I'm pretty slow.

 

[lolder]

You convinced me not to do something the manufacturer says you don't have to do.

[Mark J]

Yes, I replaced it not for maintenance, but due to a wonky acting ill behaving maf sensor. First maf I ever had to replace. The price of the maf with gasket vs the whole airbox w/included maf was like 30 bucks or so difference. Car has about 110k on the meter. Removing the bumper cover is the route to go. Then it's all sitting there, easy to work top and bottom.  Thought I would try the service manual way, hoping I could sneak it out. Still had to pull cover end back anyway.  The various size pins, brackets etc are spare parts I've needed and collected over time. I have two 2010 Fusions,  SEL  and this Hybrid.  

 

 

[FFHinVA]

I know this is an old post, but still valid as the 10-12 FFHs age.

For Mark J, any description or pics of the filter?  How is this "lifetime"? What's the magic here?

Typically "lifetime" is a marketing term, not an engineering term. The car manufacturer wants to delete the maintenance for their new car warranty plans, and typically its a 100K mile target. Basically, This term does not apply to the buyer who purchases a used car.

[MeeLee]

On 7/17/2021 at 11:36 AM, FFHinVA said:

I know this is an old post, but still valid as the 10-12 FFHs age.

For Mark J, any description or pics of the filter?  How is this "lifetime"? What's the magic here?

Typically "lifetime" is a marketing term, not an engineering term. The car manufacturer wants to delete the maintenance for their new car warranty plans, and typically its a 100K mile target. Basically, This term does not apply to the buyer who purchases a used car.

It really depends on where you most often drive.

If you often drive in an area with clean air, I'd say, swap it out at 100k miles, or 7 years. Whatever comes first. It's not because it's or may not be dirty, but the filter fibers start wearing out, and you don't want them inside your engine. Not to mention bugs, leafs, sand,... all get trapped in there.

Air filters cost like $16.

If you live in the city, closer to ~50k miles.

 

I changed the cabin air filter at 30k miles, and changed the relatively clean looking engine air filter as well as the cabin air filter at 50k miles.

 

 

 

[Mark J]

FFHinVA:

Sorry I haven't been on here in a while. It's a complete airbox with filter and maf sensor. You reuse a couple of the upper parts only. Bought mine from Levittown Ford Parts. They have pictures of it, sort of.  I believe that possibly there may be a procedure that determines if the air filter has too much air flow restriction.  Possibly a code is set and it gets traced back to the filter. Not 100% on this info, have seen mention of it elsewhere. I would think that unless it gets damaged, or you're living in dirt heaven, it'll probably go as long as the car lasts.

[FFHinVA]

I checked the Levittown site: https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2010-ford-fusion--hybrid--2-5l-l4-electric-gas/engine--air-intake.

Separate filter is part #3 maybe? But you can't buy.

I don't see anything magical here. Maybe just thicker filter medium?

$240 for whole assembly plus...$200 to install?

Pics of dissected unit would still be nice.

[MeeLee]

What?

I just change the filter part itself. $16 for just the filter. Zero installatie fees. Takes a few bolts and about 10 min of your time.

Why would anyone want to pay $+200 for an air filter swap, is beyond me.

[Mark J]

FFH, I wouldn't change it unless it becomes severely restricted, supposedly the dealer can test for this, or like in my case, the maf sensor signed off. As in my post above, cost of maf sensor v entire assembly not that huge. If you're somewhat handy you can do it yourself. I can give you the part numbers for any spare parts such as pins, bolts, etc  you might want to have on hand. Several items such as external ambient temp sensor, any headlight repairs can be accessed with the bumper cover removed.

MeeLee, my air filter is a completely sealed box, you cannot replace just the filter.

[MeeLee]

On 8/27/2021 at 10:39 AM, Mark J said:

FFH, I wouldn't change it unless it becomes severely restricted, supposedly the dealer can test for this, or like in my case, the maf sensor signed off. As in my post above, cost of maf sensor v entire assembly not that huge. If you're somewhat handy you can do it yourself. I can give you the part numbers for any spare parts such as pins, bolts, etc  you might want to have on hand. Several items such as external ambient temp sensor, any headlight repairs can be accessed with the bumper cover removed.

MeeLee, my air filter is a completely sealed box, you cannot replace just the filter.

What model year is your car?
I just needed to remove a few screws, and the 'sealed box' wasn't sealed anymore, and filter could be replaced.

 

2019 FFH

Edited August 28, 2021 by MeeLee

[lolder]

23 hours ago, MeeLee said:

What model year is your car?
I just needed to remove a few screws, and the 'sealed box' wasn't sealed anymore, and filter could be replaced.

 

2019 FFH

This sub topic thread is for 2010-12 FFHs which have a lifetime engine air filter that is quite difficult to replace.

[drberry]

On 3/12/2021 at 9:29 AM, Mark J said:

I just did this replacement for my 10 Hybrid.  The service cd says to remove driver's wheel,   fender liner,  maf sensor plug,  there's a couple of clamps on the air intake plumbing,  small nut holding I think the resonator, remove the quick connects holding the vent tube,    there is a wire loom that is connected to the air box via a push connector,   remove the three nuts holding the air box,  I removed the air intake snorkel(couple of rubber clips)and then remove through the bottom. The wire loom gets in the way a bit especially with the upper nut.    Sounds easy enough,  however it's not really that way.  If you are a contortionist you may be able to get your hands up in there to get the nuts loose,  two aren't awfully bad,  the third up towards the front is the troublemaker, can't see it.  The easier way, if you are familiar or can do it,  is to totally remove the bumper cover,  or at least enough to open up the driver side and get to it that way, especially that third nut,  you can see it if cover pulled back. I used the cover pulled back method,  took an extra set of hands to hold open. Pulling the side back involves a lot less removals then the whole cover. If remove entire bumper cover you can do the whole job yourself. You can find bumper cover removal videos online,  sometimes the places that sell replacement headlights also have videos.  It's really not that hard to do,  bunch of screws, few nuts and pushpins. If you're going to go the bumper cover removal route,  i would make sure to get a pair of the side retainers, these are the pieces where the bumper cover sides snap into.  There's a small prong on the ends which could break,  I've had it happen.  They're cheap,  eleven bucks or so at the local dealer I got a great price on the air box from Levittown Ford auto parts division.  I have bought quite a few items from them over the years,  their discounts are pretty good. Some items from my local dealer. Also make sure you have a supply of replacement fender liner pins and related items if you go the bumper cover removal route. You will probably break some while  removing them. You can find the part numbers on any Ford part seller website,  then search around.  Took me about two hours,  I'm pretty slow.

 

Mark J

Since it has been around a year since you changed your lifetime air filter, can you report any difference in fuel mileage, performance, etc.?  I am now just over 150k miles and have seen mpg go from high 30s down to 30. I feel that this filter just has to be all clogged up. 

[Mark JM]

Everything still going along beautifully. Been pretty cold here in upstate NY recently so mileage is suffering somewhat. Taking longer for that magical green light to kick on. l  will look through my service manual and see if I can find further info about the air intake system.

[Mark JM]

I looked around through my service cd at the pced symptom charts and also the intake air distribution system. I'm going to hazard a guess here and say that if the filter was overly obstructed, it would show up as a maf sensor error, there are a few different ones,  and it would have to be diagnosed as to what is causing the error or errors. If you have no codes I would think that your air induction system is operating within factory specs.