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NavyAg09

Looking at a 2012 - any advice?

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So, I didn't want to hijack the other thread on a low mileage 2012, but based off what y'all posted there (or not posted so far) to the other OP's question, there really isn't anything to look out for in the 2012's?

 

I'm looking at a 2012 hybrid close to where my parents live. Here's the link if any of y'all wouldn't mind giving me your opinion. http://www.baytownford.com/used/Ford/2012-Ford-Fusion+Hybrid-bdbae0780a0a0065040020d823104e52.htm

 

It looks like it has a little curb rash on one of the rims, but other than that doesn't look bad. I'll probably go check it out Monday or Tuesday. I just need something reliable, preferably with good mileage. Since I do mostly in town driving I think this would be good for me, but I'm not sure if I'll recover the hybrid premium. Even though it's used, and most of the hybrid premium has probably melted away into normal depreciation, I estimate I'd be spending roughly $1000 over what a similar non-hybrid would cost.

 

Also, I live in central Texas, where we've got a good bit of hills. How does the hybrid perform in hill areas? Most of my driving is 40mph or slower, but it is hilly, so I was curious how much I'd be in electric and how much in gas mode.

 

Thanks for any of y'all's input.

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I don't have any good advice on the 2012 there are much better resources around here but I will comment on your last question.

 

I think you would do very well under your driving conditions with hills and speed limit < 40 MPH. Sounds to me like lot of good opportunities to recharge the HVB for free.

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2012 is a good year. There may be a few software updates that you'll have to check with Ford with the VIN to see if they were done. If they haven't been, they should be done. With hot summer temperatures there's a little mpg hit. Park in the shade with moonroof and windows cracked. The AC is strong but power hungry. 40-50 mph is an optimum speed. Max EV speed is 47 so you should avoid that speed as it sometimes shifts back and forth to EV too much.

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So, I didn't want to hijack the other thread on a low mileage 2012, but based off what y'all posted there (or not posted so far) to the other OP's question, there really isn't anything to look out for in the 2012's?

 

I'm looking at a 2012 hybrid close to where my parents live. Here's the link if any of y'all wouldn't mind giving me your opinion. http://www.baytownford.com/used/Ford/2012-Ford-Fusion+Hybrid-bdbae0780a0a0065040020d823104e52.htm

 

It looks like it has a little curb rash on one of the rims, but other than that doesn't look bad. I'll probably go check it out Monday or Tuesday. I just need something reliable, preferably with good mileage. Since I do mostly in town driving I think this would be good for me, but I'm not sure if I'll recover the hybrid premium. Even though it's used, and most of the hybrid premium has probably melted away into normal depreciation, I estimate I'd be spending roughly $1000 over what a similar non-hybrid would cost.

 

Also, I live in central Texas, where we've got a good bit of hills. How does the hybrid perform in hill areas? Most of my driving is 40mph or slower, but it is hilly, so I was curious how much I'd be in electric and how much in gas mode.

 

Thanks for any of y'all's input.

That one looks very nice. Like lolder said, 2012 should be a good year because Ford had 3 years to work out the bugs of that powertrain.

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Wow that car in white is spectacular! And very low mileage! Looks like a great car. I'd try to find out the previous owner/s if you can. The one that I was looking at had 2 previous owners, one being a fleet company. So I'm passing on it. Too risky with all the miles I'll be putting on it right from the get go. I could get an extended warranty, but that's another $1500 for the highest mile one. In addition to the car. If I wasn't going to drive so much, I'd probably go for it. But I'll be a 30k a year driver it looks like. Now trying to see how low I can get a new Fusion S Hybrid, 2015 or 2016.

 

It looks in great shape sans the curb rash. (Older driver??) I wonder how much they'll negotiate? Good luck! Great looking car for sure!

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Some years of the 2010-12s had 30% sold to government or fleets. I don't think it really matters, in fact fleet maintained cars may get better maintenance and there's not really much you can do to hurt those cars except brake harder which just means some brake pad wear. They only need oil and filter and cabin air filter changes and tire maintenance. There's very little maintenance required to 100K miles. After that, spark plugs, coolants and that's about it. No alternators, automatic transmissions, timing belts. They have some expensive parts like the DC to DC converter, the HV electric AC compressor, and the brake simulator. These haven't been failing much so far. The hybrid components have been very reliable.

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Some years of the 2010-12s had 30% sold to government or fleets. I don't think it really matters, in fact fleet maintained cars may get better maintenance and there's not really much you can do to hurt those cars except brake harder which just means some brake pad wear. They only need oil and filter and cabin air filter changes and tire maintenance. There's very little maintenance required to 100K miles. After that, spark plugs, coolants and that's about it. No alternators, automatic transmissions, timing belts. They have some expensive parts like the DC to DC converter, the HV electric AC compressor, and the brake simulator. These haven't been failing much so far. The hybrid components have been very reliable.

 

All good points. And you're probably correct. But too much of a risk for how much I'll be driving it. If I wasn't going on the road for constant 1100 mile road trips right after purchase, I'd be all in. (I've had rental cars break down on me) I looked at the one in my thread in person and it seemed mint. But to add the highest extended warranty, which I assume I'll need driving 30k plus miles a year pushes it too close price wise to a new one. I know the Fusion Hybrid isn't the best for long distance/highway driving MPG wise, but they still get mid/high 30's and well I'm not a diesel fan. My choices are limited in my price range. My Fiesta 1.0 is too small, the Focus seems just a smidge larger and not worth it to upgrade. The Fusion compared to both is HUGE and seems like it would be very comfortable on long trips. Which is what I want. BTW I'm a Ford fan so..............not buying anything else.

 

Good luck to the OP. Seems like a very nice vehicle.

Edited by hybridwannabe

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Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to go check it out, and if it's in good shape I think I'll try and get it down to 16k.

 

Best I can tell, based on the carfax, the previous owner used it about 8k miles a year, and it was a personal title, no rental/fleet. I won't be driving near as many miles as you, hybridwannabe, so I don't think I'd capitalize as much on the hybrid factor, but I think this could still save me a couple hundred bucks a year.

 

Does anyone know the electric range on this? I know it goes up to 47mph on electric but does that mean I could drive, for example, a mile down the road at 40mph and not use gas at all until the battery starts getting run down?

 

Thanks again

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I had a 2008 non-hybrid (purchased in 2012) with these problems:

 

- The flimsy little joystick controller for the side mirrors didn't work on Day 1. Drove back to the used car dealer. They ended up ripping out the control module and replacing it with one from a nearly identical Fusion in the same lot. I wonder if they sold the broken one on that Fusion to another customer... Anyway the 2010-2012 still uses that stupid easy-to-break joystick so better watch out!

- The driver's side heated seat was shorted out. Press the button, the two LEDs (indicating heat level) would flash, then go out. Didn't bother fixing this as it was too expensive. Decided to just suck it up during the winter. If your car comes with heated seats and you actually want to use that feature, watch out for this.

- My car had a moonroof that rattled like crazy. Again, didn't bother fixing. Just played the music a little louder :)

- The stereo was garbage, and I think there was actually a technical fault with the speakers, because it was worse than the stereo in a 2002 Corolla that my driving instructor let me use when I was first learning to drive 7 years ago. Tried adjusting the sound settings on the touch screen (it had nav), didn't help.

- A month after purchase the transmission fluid started leaking because of corrosion from salt. Cost me $220 for a replacement :(. I know you live in Texas, but the car might have been registered in a snowy state in the past, so just inquire about that.

 

For electric range, in theory you can go at least 2 miles on battery alone (I think), but a hybrid with enough gas in it won't wait for the battery to go from full to empty before the engine kicks in, because that's not the most efficient way. In fact it's very rare for the battery to get charged to full on a typical drive unless you're going downhill for at least 1 km.

Edited by machoman1337

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Thanks for everyone's help. While the car handled well, I'm a pretty tall guy and I was feeling a bit cramped inside. And for some reason I couldn't get it to stay in EV mode, even with with my very light foot on the pedal. Battery was a little over half charged at the beginning of the test drive, so maybe it needed to be fully charged to stay in EV mode under light acceleration?

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Half charge is where the computer attempts to keep the battery in a 2010-2012 hybrid.

If the battery was full it would not be possible to save the energy recovered by regenerative braking.

Use the engine to accelerate from being stopped then allow the car to switch to electric drive.

Above 47 mph electric drive is not possible in a 2010-2012 hybrid.

Unless I was going down a significant hill the furthest I ever got in my 2010 was about 1 mile on battery.

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When driving at ~30 mph with car warmed, it will go about 1/2 mile on the ICE, then 1/2 mile in EV and repeat that cycle. There are many reasons why the 2010-12 ICE will run:

1) Evaporative emissions check on starting for about 1/2- 1 minute after selecting D or R.

2) Catalytic converter warmup for about a mile of driving above 12 mph. Thermometer on temp gauge turns green.

3) Significant power demand- acceleration, climbing a hill

4) Speed above 45 mph

5) HVB SOC low

6) Very high or low outside temperatures ( to provide system cooling/heating)

7) ICE not warm enough to provide cabin heating.

8) HVB re-conditioning event

 

A re-conditioning event causes the ICE to run until the HVB is at ~100% SOC. EV is disabled except for R when the re-conditioning will be cancelled. Re-conditioning balances the 204 cell voltages and chemistry. My 2010 does it about once a year. After one event, I was able to drive 4 miles at 40 mph from the 100% SOC. 1/2 mile is normal from the usual 50% SOC that the system averages.

 

Did you have the drivers seat all the way down and back? It is an easy car to get in and out of.

 

There are 4 dash display modes. The most information is provided in "Empower" which has a function that displays the limit of available EV power compared to the present demand.

Edited by lolder

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