My 2010 FFH with 200k miles

[jeff_h]

I knew it would happen one day this month, and thankfully the owner for the past 55k miles (wife's best friend) snapped a pic at just the right time!

 

I took delivery on 7/1/09 and it had 4 miles on it (and the retail order took 5½ weeks from the day I walked into the dealer to the day of delivery, which was quicker than expected), and now 10 weeks shy of being 6 years old it's got a lot of miles and still looks and runs great!

 

[lolder]

This is what they should all do. Have the brakes been serviced?

[jeff_h]

This is what they should all do. Have the brakes been serviced?

 

Yes, I changed them at 140k, they didn't need it, but I had the pads on hand and changed them before she took ownership so she would not have to worry about it... probably ever.

 

[lolder]

I guess the picture shows the old and new pads. It looks like the old ones were only 1/3 worn down.

[hybridbear]

Was the brake fluid changed? I would be more concerned with that than brake pads.

[jeff_h]

Was the brake fluid changed? I would be more concerned with that than brake pads.

Nope, have never needed to do anything with it.

[hybridbear]

Nope, have never needed to do anything with it.

I thought that brake fluid absorbed moisture over time which can lead to reduced hydraulic pressure for emergency braking. Isn't it standard procedure for most shops to replace the fluid when changing pads/rotors?

[jeff_h]

I thought that brake fluid absorbed moisture over time which can lead to reduced hydraulic pressure for emergency braking. Isn't it standard procedure for most shops to replace the fluid when changing pads/rotors?

Jeff's shop (aka "Jeff's garage") chose not to do that.

Edited April 16, 2015 by jeff_h

[rgruenhaus]

The image makes me think that there are four break pads per wheel. Is that so? Are these old and new in each area? Only a few are worn. I have been told that the front wear faster. I have almost 100k miles and have not seen much wear yet.

 

 

Yes, I changed them at 140k, they didn't need it, but I had the pads on hand and changed them before she took ownership so she would not have to worry about it... probably ever.

 

[murphy]

There are two pads per wheel. The center two are the old pads and the outer two are the new pads for comparison.

[jeff_h]

There are two pads per wheel. The center two are the old pads and the outer two are the new pads for comparison.

 

Exactly - otherwise there would not be a suitable way for the view to assess the approximate percentage that had been worn from when the pads were new.

[MrMikeL]

What kind of gas mileage were you getting at 140k? Or the new owner at 200k?

[jeff_h]

What kind of gas mileage were you getting at 140k? Or the new owner at 200k?

 

Over my 145k my average was 39.6MPG -- I think she is now getting about 38MPG combined. I will check within the next couple weeks as I think it's about time for the 220k mile oil change so she comes over to the house and I get to change the oil and take a look under the hood to make sure all is well.

[VonoreTn]

 

Over my 145k my average was 39.6MPG -- I think she is now getting about 38MPG combined. I will check within the next couple weeks as I think it's about time for the 220k mile oil change so she comes over to the house and I get to change the oil and take a look under the hood to make sure all is well.

Jeff, that mileage is SO close to mine, which is at 124,000 miles now. I always fill up and I have every gas receipt, and an Excel chart of all my data with charts. My average is 39.7 mpg. Of course in the summer I can easily get over 40 around town with a few freeway runs as well, but winters are hard on the mpgs.

 

I am not worried about my brake pads, I check them occasionally and they always look pretty much like new, since most of my braking is done by the generators, not even using the pads.

 

Regarding the high voltage batteries, these NMH batteries have lasted 300K miles on Escape taxis fleet in California, the only ones that were replaced had been damaged in accidents at that average fleet mileage, so I am not at all worried about HV batteries.

 

Regarding brake fluid, yes it is hydroscopic, and it will absorb moisture, but if you never leave your brake master cylinder cover off, there is just not that much opportunity for water to get into the fluid. I make sure I only take that cover off for seconds, to check the level if I can't see it from the outside. In the process of bleeding the brakes, you can have the cover off for some time, but for normal driving, the need to bleed the brakes is rare. You would need to bleed the brakes if you replaced a caliper or fixed a line leak, and in that case you should put in all new fluid.

[jeff_h]

I just changed the oil again last week when it was 150 miles shy of 220k, all still well...

[gaken]

jeff_h and VonoreTN,

 

For the benefit of us with fewer odometer miles;

 

Questions:

 

1) What motor oil brand, viscosity and oil change intervals have you both been adhering to?

 

2) What major issues or repairs?

 

 

My 2010 Fusion Hybrid has "only" 140,000 miles on it. Only repairs to date include replacement of a engine accessory belt and check engine light warning fix. I have been averaging 41-42 mpg during the winter, here in Middle TN. 47-48 during the rest of the year. I have even seen 53 mpg on a few occasions. (Prius like mileage!) 80% highway driving.

 

I bought it as a used government fleet car with 70,000 miles. It had Kendall 5W20 Blend every 5,000 miles up to that point. I used up my stash of Motorcraft FULL Synthetic 5W20 up to 100,000 miles. Another Fusion Hybrid owner with 180,000 miles convinced me to switch to Mobil 1AFE 0W20 every 10,000 miles at the 100,000 mile mark. Based on the oil analysis that I had done, I could have gone a couple of thousand miles more on it. However, every 10,000 miles is my maximum, and is an easy interval to remember.

 

The only tip I can offer is to change out the eCVT transmission fluid. I am not a believer of lifetime fluids. I found a local transmission shop to do it for around $80, if I supplied the Mercon LV. Great piece of mind, because replacing that transmission would mean big $$$. At this point, I am trying to figure out what to do with the "lifetime" air filter. I heard that a new one is north of $400 installed. Any suggestions?

[lolder]

As far as the eCVT fluid is concerned, there are no combustion products that can get into it and contaminate it and there are no clutches or bands or valves in it to produce wear particles. It would probably last forever. Oil doesn't wear out if it isn't over heated. Don't worry about the ICE air filter, if there even is one. If it got so clogged that it restricted flow I believe it would notify you.

[jeff_h]

I have done my own oil changes every 5k with Quaker State 5W-20 Full Synthetic.

 

The only things that have ever gone wrong was a left front wheel bearing at 33k (replaced free under warranty), a CEL at 66k (O2 sensor replacement), and a right front wheel bearing at 118k.

 

I normally have the dealer change the engine belt every 50k (they say those belt are good for 100k but it helps me sleep better at night) and I had the other O2 sensor changed at 140k (prevention only, was running fine), 12V battery at 140k (also for prevention) and then had them change both sensors again at 210k (prevention again). I had dealer change spark plugs at 100k and 210k.

 

And I think that's it.

Edited February 12, 2016 by jeff_h

[Texasota]

I normally have the dealer change the engine belt every 50k (they say those belt are good for 100k but it helps me sleep better at night).

Which belt are your referring to? I was under the impression there are not belts.

[gaken]

As far as the eCVT fluid is concerned, there are no combustion products that can get into it and contaminate it and there are no clutches or bands or valves in it to produce wear particles. It would probably last forever. Oil doesn't wear out if it isn't over heated. Don't worry about the ICE air filter, if there even is one. If it got so clogged that it restricted flow I believe it would notify you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

loder,

 

I used to think the same thing, (regarding eCVT fluid lasts forever). I know there is no combustion process, bands or valves.

 

However, consider the following:

 

1) Do you account for the condensation process, in going from summer to winter and back?

 

2) Do you really believe that the fluid will be identical 7 years later, in composition to what it was, coming from the factory?

 

3) I wandered over to the Prius forum. (It has the same eCVT design as what we have). Some of the owners have submitted their eCVT fluid for oil analysis. The results

have swayed them over to changing out their "lifetime fluid" as well. Google "Prius eCVT maintenance".

 

4) I have not priced out a new eCVT transmission in our cars yet. Someone at the Prius forum got a $6,000 quote. Maybe you have deeper pockets than I, to run that

risk (that your transmission will last a lifetime maintenance free). As for me, I'll pay the $80 + Mercon LV fluid cost, to change it out, every 50,000 miles, after the initial,

100,000 mile change (I thank you very much).

[jeff_h]

Which belt are your referring to? I was under the impression there are not belts.

 

This is on the 2010 model (and I think 2010-2012), which has a single engine (serpentine) belt... I would take it to the dealer to get it changed, never wanted to mess with it myself and one time I talked with the tech and he said they are a pain to get to - so I am glad to pay them the labor to do it.

 

However I don't think the 2013 and newer have any belts.

[jeff_h]

I went to get the front tires replaced today, thought it would be routine... well it was a bit more costly.

 

They found that one of the tie rod ends was worn out, and the right front wheel bearing was going bad again. So both were replaced.

 

So the left front wheel bearing was replaced at 33k miles under warranty ($0).

 

O2 sensor made the CEL come on at 66k miles, replaced under extended warranty ($100 deductible).

 

Right front wheel bearing was replaced at 118k miles out of pocket ($370, IIRC).

 

Right front wheel bearing was replaced again today at 238k miles out of pocket, along with the tie rod ($760).

 

And that's all that has ever gone wrong with the car in 7 years (July 2009) and 238k miles... not too shabby!

 

And the hybrid battery acts just like it did when the car was new.

 

What a great car.

[Texasota]

And that's all that has ever gone wrong with the car in 7 years (July 2009) and 238k miles... not too shabby!

 

And the hybrid battery acts just like it did when the car was new.

That is incredible and a great ownership story!

[Rob Brand]

So, I just bought a 2010 with 161,000 miles. A baby compared to what I have read. Handling is great. Quality is still there.

 

Thanks

[Automate]

My 2010 just went over 100K. I purchased it used with 75K. Only problems have been a bad fuel injector and a broken drivers inside door handle, both repaired myself.

Edited January 2, 2017 by Automate