maroonhoo

I have the same problem with the signal on my '13. For me, it occurs intermittently when I signal to turn right off of a one-lane road going straight. It also happens when I'm waiting for traffic to pass to make a left turn with my car not even moving, and while on a road with a slight left curve just before a right turn. If I'm on a country road that curves very slightly left, I don't expect my turn signal to cancel before I can turn right. Great way to get rear ended. This didn't happen with my 2010 FFH, so this is definitely different behavior. If it's by design, it's a poor one.

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Any progress on this yet? I'm having the same problem on my 2013 FUsion HyTi. My premature signal cancelation occurs only intermittently, and in the past, I've had pretty significant problems getting my local dealership to take these types of problems on my 2010 FFH seriously.

I tested it and drove my car in low gear on the expressway yesterday, and I heard the same revving while coasting. I bet the car was in low gear the other two times it made the strange noises. You folks on this forum are quite the clever bunch. Thanks for the help!

Really? I always thought that driving a car in low gear at high speeds in regular driving conditions (i.e. not particularly hilly) caused the trans or engine unnecessary wear and tear. Is that no longer so, or is what you're describing a special feature of the FFH?

Thanks Oldschool and Oman. That just might be what happened. Both times when I parked, once to run into a store and the second time to get gas, I restarted and the problem was gone, so what you're saying makes sense here. I would like to put the car in low gear, drive it, and see if I can reproduce the problem, but I'm afraid of the damage it could do to the engine and transmission if I put my car in low gear and drive it at the speeds at which I previously experienced the problem. I suppose next time I hear the revving, I'll just have to take a look at the dash and note what gear I'm in. Thanks again. This is a plausible explanation, one that's far more helpful than the "dunno's" I've received from the guys at my local Ford service centers. :)

I suppose I am in for another unproductive trip to Ford... They don't know what the problem is either. :( Thanks, guys. If anyone else has had this problem, please let me know if you found a solution. If Ford finally gets it together and diagnoses the problem, I'll post the solution here.

Ok, anyone experienced with cars want to take a stab at what the problem might be? The noise is really loud, but because I can't reproduce the problem on demand, Ford hasn't been able to hear it. What types of problems might make a car do that?

Hi guys, I'm turning to the experts -- you guys -- since my question has managed to stump two Ford service departments. I bought my car in March, and since then, I have twice experienced a strange revving-like noise coming from the front end of the car while coasting. The revving is a constant, deep moaning noise, like a sport's car's engine when it's revved, only the revving is constant and doesn't stop until I start accelerating again. When I coast, the noise comes back and doesn't stop for tens of miles. Both times it has happened since I bought the car, the noise was loudest and most noticeable while coasting without my foot on the gas or brake. When I accelerate, the noise is more subtle, but still constant. Is this normal? Does any of this have to do with the battery? The battery was at the mid-point this last time I heard the revving noise. I've already put 6500 miles on the car, and like I said, this is only the second time I've had the problem. It has happened at highway speeds (65+ mph) and lower speeds (~45 mph). Does your hybrid do this?

Koons in Falls Church. Ourisman was willing to as well, but they only agreed to it after I bought it from Koons.

I've been trying to figure out whether it's possible to do the following if you have navigation: (1) Do a business search by voice, be given names of the closest businesses, and navigate to them? I've only been able to do this using the POI search feature. Some of the features don't work when you're moving, so I'd like to know if I can do what the lady in the Ford demo does here: http://www.fordvehicles.com/technology/sync/ (2) Can you navigate to addresses stored in your phone (I have a Blackberry Curve 8300)? I've transferred my phone book to the nav system, but I can only pull up phone numbers, not addresses. Is there a way to do this without typing and saving the addresses I use most in the nav's address book when the addresses are already stored in my phone? Thanks!

Sorry, Sullied, no idea whether that same method will work if you order from the factory, but like you said, it's worth a try. And even though your current dealer knows how excited you are, once you get the other dealerships you've emailed to bite, don't be a afraid to go back to the first dealer and ask them to match it and throw in something extra or beat the other guys' offers. It's only fair to give the original guy a shot. But yeah, you've got to be willing to walk away, and you will probably have to. Just make sure they have your contact info so that when they change their minds, they know how to reach you. Good luck with the online quotes. Like I said, that's the way that worked out for me in the end. I couldn't be happier with my deal. Ok, so maybe I could be happier, but that would just be greedy. :) Let us know how it works out!

Sullied, might it be worth it to just get the leather seats and buy covers for them if you're not a fan of leather? That would give you more room to negotiate if the 502A package is more plentiful on lots than the 501 package. Just a thought. I bought mine new, no trade. Both dealers wanted me to trade, but I was adamant about keeping my car and selling it myself. Why let the dealer have the profit if I can wait a while for the money and sell it myself? I think they took the loss on the one they sold me because I was able to use another dealer's offer against another. The first dealer didn't offer me $28,000 until about two weeks after I first visited their lot. It's the end of the month, and the tax credit is phasing out this month, so maybe that was motivation for them. The first dealer told me that they had a quota to meet this month and had to get a certain number of FFHs off the lot. They only came down to $28,000 because I was firm the entire time about how much I was willing to spend. I didn't get attached, wasn't in a hurry, and didn't compromise on the price. Let them know you aren't counting on their financing and that you're ready to deal provided they're ready to give you what you want. Put the ball in their court. I have to admit, the second dealer was skeptical about the deal the first offered me. They were baffled at how they could sell the car for only $28k. They insisted that I provide them with emails from the other dealer naming the price and showing that they offered me a FFH with the 502A package. I was able to forward the second dealer the emails from the first dealer and they made the deal (but not without first trying to increase the price once I came in. That's when emails from the second dealer agreeing to the $28k came in handy). Report back and let us know what you end up doing! Do it this month if you can so that you can qualify for what's left of the tax credit. Play hard, they do. You can get it for $28k.

I don't know if you're still looking to buy a FFH or if you've already bought one, but I bought one this week for a pretty good price. I bought one with the 502A package and factory installed remote start for $28,000. The sticker price was well over $33,000. Bank of America offered the best interest rate by far at 2.89% for 60 mo (I also looked at rates from my credit union, Capital One, Chase, and Citibank -other financial institutions I do business with), so if you plan to finance, you might want to check them out. The loan process was simple and fast. The car-buying process, on the other hand, was extremely painful, but I got what I wanted. Initially, I worked with one dealership and told them that I wanted to buy the car with package/ features X, and pay $Y. They of course balked and I walked away. I very nicely told them that if they get a used one in or later found that they could come down to $Y (which was $28k for me), to please give me a call. A week and a half later, they called. It was the end of the month (they said they needed my business to meet a quota), and while they were willing to talk, they weren't coming down as low as I needed them to. Finally, after days of negotiation over the phone (try to get as much as you can done via email to save you time and to give you something in writing!), they agreed. Unfortunately, they wanted to charge about $500 more for silver, the color I wanted, and wouldn't budge off $28,500. So I emailed another dealership that had the color that I wanted, told them about the other dealership's offer and told them they could have my business if they had the color, options, and price that I wanted. I asked that they contact me if they could either match the other dealer's offer with a remote start or beat it. They haggled with me, called off the deal, then called me back and said they could let me have it for $Y + $900, then emailed me back and said I could have it for $28k without the remote, tried everything, but I wanted what I wanted. Eventually, they caved and I got the car in silver with the options that I wanted at the price that I wanted. Both dealers reneged on their offers at some point. They told me one thing over the phone and another thing when I got there. I learned the second time though, and with the second dealer, did everything by email. When they tried to change the deal after I finally came in, I showed them the emails on my phone. In the end, they wanted my business so they did right by me, but without those emails, I'm sure it would have been even more of a headache to get the deal that I wanted. Long story short - go in with a number. Negotiate via email if possible, but do your best to stick to your number. If no one bites, wait for a used one to crop up or for the 2011s to come out and see if you can get the deal you want on a 2010 then. Good luck.

For anyone out there looking to buy a FFH (or even a MMH) sometime soon, now seems to be a great time to buy. It's the end of the month, hence dealers want to make deals. The tax credit is ending soon, which means more money in your pocket. It might also mean that dealers are anticipating a slow down in FFH sale (many people may opt to wait for more used ones to come on the market or for the 2011s to come out), so they may be even more likely to negotiate. Lastly, it's an awesome car and you should own one. ;) I just bought mine in Northern Virginia for $28,000 (not including destination cost, TTL, and fees) with the 502A package and remote start factory installed. It came with a couple extras like weather mats and little things like that. Over all, I think (hope!) this was a great deal. I will, of course, file next year for the tax credit, bringing the cost down to $27,150. Certainly not bad for a car with an MSRP of over $33,000! Go get one!