jona2125

I was thinking about getting the factory Michelin All-Season tires siped on my 2010 Fusion SEL I-4. Anybody have any experience with this?

Yea when I get the time next week I will explore the options of what can be done about it. That would be a nice feature for sure.

I'm definitely interested in doing this as well. I will go and ask the dealer if they are able to do this when I get the time

Looks good. I have replaced my 50w 6000k low beams and 35w 6000k fog lights that cost me over $400 total for with some $40-a-kit DDM Raptor V2 55w 5000k. The 6 was just too blue for my taste so I went with 5 and absolutely love it. Haven't had an issue yet and no I am not running a harness, the stock wiring is well enough to handle the ignition surge of the ballast. Here is a video to show how they look (please excuse the harsh language used, it was a long stressful day with the install and everything else so I was kind of venting) Video

Just curious if its just a change made by the ford diagnostic computer tech because thats how DRL's are shut off, the dealership hooks into the SJB and turns them on or off. So since the global open feature exists in the system (reffering to the lincolns line of cars to be able to do it) I think there is potential we can accomplish it on the fusion.

I'm not disagreeing with you at all on this topic just throwing out my experiences. The kits I have used personally draw power from the headlight switch for each headlight individually, I have never used a relay. The kits I have worked on are all types, relayed with a plug for each OEM headlight connector, single plug relay, single plug dual ballast, dual ballast dual plug and single ballast single plug dual bulbs. To get back on the topic of this post it sounds to me like its not a relayed system because a relay would eliminate what is happening 99% of the time. Just sounds to me that the ballast is getting voltage surge and dips causing it to go into protect mode when they first fire up, especially right when you start the car. A relay will cure this issue most likely.

Not true I have seen kits that have run on the 1 plug. The relay is what connects it to the battery to avoid having this problem.

The wattage plays a big role in this situation. If he is using a 35w kit with an analog ballast (sometimes digital has this problem too) and it is one of the kits that uses one headlight socket the current draw when the headlight comes on puts one ballast into safe mode because of insufficient power. When they fire up the draw a lot of power and running that on one plug can cause this problem which should be fixed by a relay. This is just a hunch on what seems to be going on though I'm not saying this is the problem.

I'm looking into it currently. Along with adding LED bulbs I was going to add a brake light pulser

Hey sorry it took so long to reply I've been busy the past month. I orderd the light smoke color at 24" x 60" sheet, the universal headlight and tailight cover kit. There was enough to do both headlights, the 3 tails and the side markers. I ended up taking the headlight tint off though. the exact kit I bought is at this link http://www.stickercity.com/universal-headlight-and-taillight-cover-sheet.html

this is what i bought for the headlights http://www.stickercity.com/universal-headlight-and-taillight-cover-sheet.html and for the grill yes i had to take it off and i bought this to do it, 60"x24" roll http://www.stickercity.com/3m-matte-black-vinyl-sticker-wrap-sheet.html?best=Y

Don't use them. That just looks overpriced and under qualitied. I did mine light smoke along with the side markers (took the headlight tint off) and did the grille with black vinyl. Here's some pics. It was a very easy install because the vinyl is very very pliable to get it to contour if you have a blow dryer handy. It's cut to fit but thats not hard, 3 nuts and the tails fall out so its easier to cut it out evenly. I put it on, formed it from the center out and cut the excess off. 40 minutes to done for all 3 lights. http://www.stickercity.com/12-x-linear-foot-headlight-amp-taillight-cover-film-sheet.html

You have a point, when you talk about HID's in a halogen based reflector housing. It's totally different in a mono-halogen projector housing because the cutoff shield auto corrects any scattered light outside the reflector bowls focus. Btw HID's were offered factory in reflector housings in quite a few cars. They had a special reflector mold with reformed geometries and adjusted aim height. That's why HID's in halogen reflectors are no fun for other drivers because of the scattered light unlike the focused light like a projector. Projectors were designed for HID's not halogens, which is why many people complain that the 2010 fusion, recent lines of Mazda cars, and others with halogen projectors have such a bad light output because the filament is designed for refraction where the Xenon Arc was designed to be reflected and focused. Just my two cents The 2010 Fusions can safely accept an HID bulb due to the fact that the headlight system was based on the same system found in a Lincoln, it was reversed enginered to accept a halogen sized bulb. I have them in my car and they have better light output than the halogens but have a cutoff to match a Lincolns I've side by side compared. Now with the warranty part, the HID's are covered or not covered depending on the person you bought them from. Ford's harness is still covered because it stops at the plug anything after that is on you or you're aftermarke bulb's manufactuer. I've confirmed this with many dealerships in many states.

I live in southgate and for every 3-4 SE's (THERES A TON) I see 1 SE AP. The rare ones are the SEL AP's.

Got mislead, thought you were talking about tinting the whole windshield like I got done. The shop I took mine too cut around the mount thats adhered to the windshield, twice, once for the full windshield layer and again for the strip.