noreast

The closest thing you're going to get is to take a picture of a cowboy boot and upload that into the Home screen.

 

Seriously, Ford doesn't sell any vehicles with this Nav system in Europe, so nobody's going to make a disc.

Nonsense. If you visit Ford's Italian site, you will see that the Mondeo (rumored to be the basis of the next North American Fusion) comes with a Nav system.

Hello,

I know that car manufacturers reduce cost by using vinyl on non-seating surfaces for their "leather seats" offerings.

I just feel that in my 2010 Fusion with leather seats, the definition of "seating surfaces" suffered a substantial reduction. It seems (judging from surface texture) that the only 'real' leather on the seat are the small patches under one's but and behind the lower back.

Should I have saved my money and ordered some aftermarket leather covers instead? Bummer, heated seats only come with factory leather!

On another note, do I use different cleaning products for these different surfaces?

Don't understand why someone worries about the distance to empty numbers, look at your gas gauge and buy gas when it gets close to empty.

Because my car is driven by myself and my wife, and we do not both share the same level of urgency to fill up as the needle creeps towards E. An accurate KM to E would convince my better half that it really IS the time to top it off.

It's based on an internal average over the last XX miles (I've heard 500 but I don't know for sure). Resetting the averages displayed doesn't affect it. Based on your city driving it was expecting 250 miles but you went on a highway trip so naturally you got a lot more than that. After your highway trip, it recalculated. Sounds perfectly normal to me. Your average mpg went from about 16 in the city to 26 after the long highway trip.

I noticed similar changes after a long trip. But still, the computer it is way too optimistic. Even after driving more than 1000 KM ( > 600 miles) after returning from my trip, KM to E still projects at least 75% more KM than actual. B.T.W. since I returned from my long trip, I only drove my usual route, so whatever the distance it uses to calculate the average consumption, I must have driven more than that on the same route, so it should have a pretty good estimate of my fuel consumption.

And it still does like I mentioned in my first post, KM to E drops 1.5 to 2 KM for every actual 1 KM driven. I learned to ignore it and go by trip odometer to estimate how many KMs I have in reserve.

Brain matter triumphs over silicone chips yet again. :happy feet:

Hello,

I noticed that the power-window disable switch (the one behind the four window up/down switches on the driver door) is not iluminated like the other switches on the door (lock/unlock, four window up/down switches, etc.).

Is this normal or did the backlight for this switch go bad in my car (2010 SEL I4)?

...So i went with a 1.6 B&G spring ...

Any pics ?

Why not use a dedicated memory stick and leave it connected all the time?

Because I keep my music is on my cell-phone, which doubles as my MP3 player, and I do want to take it with me when I leave the car.

I found this button on the door next to the handle, amazingly enough it locks and unlocks the doors. WHoda Thunk it.

Wow, you must have ordered the super-dee-duper trim level :hysterical2:

Where did you find the USB-B (square) jack?

My poor dexterity! Indeed it is a flat USB but it is aligned vertically. I was sitting in the driver seat trying to plug in my USB cable using my sense of touch to do so. I assumed a flat USB would be alligned horizonatlly so as I failed to plug in the cable, I felt the receptacle and it felt narrow, so I assumed it is the square type. After reading your post, I went back and leaned across the driver seat so i can have a more comfortable look and sure it is a standard flat, vertical, USB port.

Sorry for the confusing post!

I tried to hook up my phone (which also happens to be my MP3 player) to my 2010 SEL Fusion but to my surprise I found that ford has the square format USB receptacle (like the ones on the back of printers). All MP3 players, Phones, iPods, and iPhones I owned in the past all come with cables that have the flat format USB connector.

I did not have much luck with finding adapters on the net or in my local electronics store.

Does Ford offer a choice of which receptacle comes in the car? Can it be changed?

How do you hookup your USB devices to Sync?

ive had that happen before and i finally realized why...you have to shut of the car and all the elctronics...if you dont it some how gets "confused" and shows an incorrect fuel level.

I always turn the ignition off and place the key in my pocket when I refuel (paranoid about someone driving away with my precious as I pay at the cashier). Still, my Kilometers to Empty (Canadian readout, eh?) is always an "optimistic" guess. I averages 16.5 L / 100 KM ( ~14.5 MPG, calculated manually using trip counter and liters of fuel as I fill up). The computer displays AVG L/100KM as 15.

When I fill up, I usually put around 55 Liters. A simple calculation using my observed L/100KM value shows the tank is good for ~340 KM. Yet, the computer shows 550 KM to E. I have not read the manual yet regarding KM to E, but I wonder how the computer is calculating this figure.

Even by its more optimistic L/100KM (15) the computer should display ~360 KM to E. But 550? That is ridiculous.

Also as I drive, KM to E drops almost twice as fast as actual kilometers driven.

It seems that the computer uses a preset L/100KM instead of average value it calculates when determining KM to E.

As I drive, KM to E drops almost twice as fast as the actual KM driven.

SO be careful on how much you upload - appartently this forum has a limit?????

 

2010 - Limited upload capacity on a car forum

 

 

1936 - The atomic bomb

 

What's wrong here?

The grill looks great.

2" lower are just too much for my taste. I would have gone with 1" only. But that's just my opinion.

I used to dab a little touch up paint using the brush provided but that usually resulted in a bead of paint that sticks out like a sore thumb. So I started doing what Desert Fusion suggested. Much better!

Recently I started adding the following steps after filling the chipped hole with layers of touch-up paint:

1. Add another layer so that the touch up paint forms a little bump.

2. Get a piece of masking tape and cut a hole about the size of the chipped area and use it to mask the paint around the bump formed in step 1 above.

3. Use a piece of very fine grit sand paper and a wet sponge to wet-sand-paper this bump flush.

4. Use fine rubbing compound to further blend the repair area to its surrounding.

5. Apply wax.

6. Peel-off the masking tape and enjoy the almost invisible repair job.

WTF? I thought I attached the pics... Let's try this again...

Congratulations, it looks great. I was wondering about FM reception. Does it suffer?

hahahaha......im the same way....but there is an easy way out...just hide the things.....some examples....there is a rubber placemat in the dash storage area and the center consol...you can lift them up and hide money underneath....bigger things like a cd case can go in the spare tire area...if someone like a valet guy wanted some free goods he would take a quick look...BUT he wouldnt think to start lifting and poking and proding around...may sound stupid but its true...

This is EXACTLY what a lockable compartment is supposed to offer: an easy way to get things out of sight/easy reach. So instead of mucking around with out of sight nooks and crannies, you simply put things in a locked compartment. The valet guy who wouldn't think of lifting and proding around will be also deterred by a lockable compartment. For other thieves, nothing will stand in their way.

And no complaints?? Cool! Good to hear. I am likely to deal with them also except I'll have to get things mounted at home here since I am swapping wheels and tires twice, putting new rims with my stock tires and the old rims getting new snow performance tires. (If I go that route as I may just keep the stockers intact and buy snows as a completed package - depends if I like the stock wheels or not when I get the car.)

Hello Rodeo, If you are OK with the stock rims for your summers, I would suggest you go that route. I would even consider going to a 17" or even 16" rim/tire combo for your winters. I was checking out winter tire prices and the prices jump between $50-$100 per tire when going from 16" to 17", and I am talking same tire model from the same manufacturer. Haven't checked 18" tire prices, but I will not surprised if it was even more expensive. This will save you quite a bundle on the long run.

Sounds like you need one of these if that is your concern. If someone wants to grab something out of your trunk, they aren't going to break your window, they will pop the trunk with a screwdriver. It doesnt matter what car you drive, if someone wants something out of it, nothing will stop them from taking it short of an armed guard or rabid dog. With a screwdriver and rock I can get into just about any trunk that has a lock on it in 30 seconds or less.

LOL. Even these , can be broken into by the determined :hysterical2:

The lockable compartment is not for guarding your wife's pearls. It is just deterrent enough for the seventeen-year-old valet at your favorite restaurant who does not want to get in so much trouble by physically damaging your car, but would pocket anything of value that is just lying around, like your phone charger, or your GPS, or any of the gazillion small items you may want to leave in your car while enjoying valentine's day with your significant other. :beerchug:

Have you ever locked your keys in a trunk that needed a key to open? Not fun, not convenient, and far more common than the valet who may decide to rifle through things. I have only had my vehicle for a couple months, and I can list the contents at any moment - a snow brush, the owners's manual, and my iPod cable. That is because I have trust issues... Seeing the size of the key, I do not want a second key to carry.

 

I just remembered I have 68 cents in that useless drawer above the light switch - better go take care of that.

Service keys are usually regular, small keys. They do not have a key-fob or any gizmo attached. And usually, you would not need to carry one around, but when you know you are going somewhere with valet, or you are taking your car for service, you can take it with you for that trip.

That being said, having the option of a lockable trunk or compartment does not prevent you from ignoring this option exists and trust the valet people with your 68 cents, your snow brush, and your iPod cable. BTW, hope your 68 cents made it alright. :hysterical2:

My point was that no console or glove box is really secure. A simple solution might be getting a locksmith to rekey the trunk lock and then inside the trunk, disconnect the electricity to the unlock mechanism.

Agree! NO compartment, glove box or trunk is really secure, but..

1. Security is relative. If someone really wants to physically break into your car, a locked trunk will not deter them, they will crow-bar, drill, break glass, or do whatever to gain access. Short of a vault on wheels, no passenger car is secure enough for this kind of break-in. On the other hand, the few valet attendants, that cannot resist snooping into your glove box or trunk for an easy grab, will find a locked compartment is too much hassle to bother.

2. We should not need to fiddle with re-keying trunk locks, mess with wiring etc. Ford should have done that for us from the get-go. My point was that Mazda was able to offer it more than 30 years ago, so Ford should be able to offer it now.

Cheers.

Locking glove boxes or consoles that can be easily opened/broken into with a screwdriver doesn't work. Your best bet is to stop valet parking. As long as someone has a key they can unlock the trunk using the key hole in the trunk lid.

I back in 1983, I had a 2-door Mazda 929 Coupe (Europe/Asia model) which had a lockable glovebox, the trunk release button was inside the glovebox. It also came with a service key that only opens the front doors and turns the ignition, while the main key turned the ignition, unlocked the front doors, the glovebox and the trunk. When I gave it to service/valet, I locked my valuables in the trunk or in the glove box, locked the glovebox and gave them the service key. valet attendands are not likely to want to be liable for breaking into locked compartments. If they have malintentions, they would most definitely go for the easy grab instead.

Good Information from Cary 28.

 

I successfully installed HIDs on my 2010 Fusion SE 2.5L. Mine does not have DRLs. I have a 6000K 35W Kit w/ a pair of BOW Cancellers for my lowbeams, and a 3500 35W Kit for my fogs.

 

The install was fairly easy, and I just lifted the coolant reservoir out of the way, and reached my hand down through the opening to reach the passenger side headlight, rather than going through the wheel well. Here are pictures of the final product. A huge difference!

 

Any success stories / experience with cars that ARE equipped with DRL? Up here in Canada, DRL are mandatory. And I agree, the 2010 Fusion looks incomplete without them.

If the 16" wheels will clear your brake calipers, I think you are ok. I guess this would be called "minus sizing". Make sure there is more than 1/2" clearance with your 17's between the inside of the rim and the brake components. You will loose at least a half inch with 16's. Do a trial fit before you commit to purchase.

 

Tread design will be more critical than tread width - get snows?????

 

Just looked and the I4 S series has 16's, so they should clear the calipers.

Thanks Grey, There is no reason why brake calipers should be different sizes between S and SEL, right?

And yes, checked the specs at Ford's website, the S comes with 205/60H16. I should've checked before posting!!!

I just ordered a 2010 Fusion SEL I4. By law we are required to install winter tires in here Quebec. The size is 225/50-17, but these babies cost an arm and a leg a piece. I am thinking of buying 16" steel wheels and installing 205/60-16 tires on them. The difference in price per tire almost covers the cost of the wheel, which is a bonus since I can spare the original wheels from the insults of winter driving.

The circumference difference between the two tires is about 14mm, so it is negligible (I did the math and using 206/60-16 amounts to 3 extra revolutions per Kilometer, or the equivalent of driving an extra 30Km per year). I am not therefore concerned about the difference in circumference, but more concerned about the narrower contact area 205 vs. 225).

For snow and slush driving this is an advantage since narrower tires dig deeper and get more traction. But when the city clears the snow, it is back to dry pavement. Should I be concerned about this? Will it affect dry-surface braking?