Jazz62

Sorry for the delay in replying. These notices went into my spam folder. What type of vent are you referring to? I did look around the best I could and I can't find a drop of anything anywhere. Very frustrating as it just did it yesterday after not doing it since I originally posted my question.

2010 FFH, 53K miles. Yesterday, drove about 25 miles on the highway and immediately when exiting the car smelled a hard to describe smell. Sort of a chemical odor that smelled of heat. Sorry, it was hard to describe. It immediately dissipated. Sniffing around the back of the hood near the windshield and the front wheel well there was nothing. The smell was not present inside the car. It was not a coolant, oil or hot brake smell. Same thing happened on the return trip home. Any ideas?

Finally got around to ordering an obd2 scanner and made the change to my 2010's battery age. Had some trouble getting the scanner to connect, but it finally did. The change was instantaneous. Drove a short distance around our neighborhood, maybe 4 miles total and once the temp gauge was in the green, MPG went from 23.9 to 38.5!, and our neighborhood has a lot of steep hills. Speaking of hills and just as important to me as the improved MPG, NO MORE ACCELERATION LAG WAITING FOR THE ICE TO KICK IN!!! That alone is quite literally a lifesaver. Thanks again to everyone!

Thank you both! For a reliable OBD2 reader, the original one linked to in this thread is no longer available. Can anyone recommend one that I can trust to work without issues?

I'm finally getting ready to do the battery age reset. Will be buying an OBD2 reader tonight. I have a question about using the FORscan software. I have downloaded version 2.3.29 for Windows and installed it, but I did not obtain a license key. I expected that I wouldn't be able to open the program without a license key, but it opened no problem with a double-click. Am I missing something? Will it not ask for a license key until my vehicle is connected via the OBD2 reader?

Haven't checked in for a while and am really excited to try the fix that allen84 has outlined. My 2010 FFH only has 48k miles, yes you read that right, 48k miles. It has exhibited these exact symptoms for over a year. Aside from the aggravation of essentially now driving a non-hybrid car, there are many ordinary day to day driving scenarios where this lag in acceleration is simply dangerous, but I've learned to adapt. That was until we relocated from Chicago to Tacoma 4 weeks ago. Anyone who has ever been here knows of the very steep hills. Twice in the last week I have found myself stopped at a red light while climbing one of these steep hills. The first time it was at night and no one was behind me, but today I was the first car and a women in the car behind me stopped much too close to my rear. I would guess she was maybe 18" or less away from me as I couldn't even see the entire hood of her car through my rearview mirror. I knew that when the light turned green I would have to mash the accelerator pedal to the floor to hopefully avoid rolling backwards waiting for the ICE to kick in. Well, it happened. When the light turned green, I immediately mashed the pedal to the floor and that estimated 1.5 second lag caused me to roll back just enough to make contact with her car. Yes, under those road conditions she never should have been that close to my ass, but that didn't matter. Thankfully there was no damage to her car and we went on our merry way. That Ford will not issue a TSB about this is inexcusable! I have a car with less than 50k miles that I have maintained meticulously since buying it 4.5 years ago. I should not have to rely on a lucky break discovery on a forum like this for my car to be safe to drive.

Greetings, I'm brand new to the forum, but have searched it several times as an "outsider" since purchasing my 2010 FFH 3 yrs ago. I purchased mine in 2015 with very low miles on it, 28K. It's the first American car I've had in a very long time and it's been almost completely trouble-free. I work very close to home here in the heart of Chicago and the car still has less than 45K on it. As I said, it's been a great reliable car that's needed nothing outside of scheduled maintenance, tires and a new 12V battery just recently. The battery that went bad was the original battery from 2010. I think I had realistic expectations of real life MPG vs the EPA figures, especially for pure city driving in Chicago. Pure highway MPG has been as good as I'd hoped, typically around 37-38 mpg if my average speed is not over 75 mph. My pure city MPG however, is awful, currently 23 MPG. I should say that I am always mindful of driving techniques that I believe will exploit the potential of the car, always keep my tires properly inflated etc. Yes, pure city driving in Chicago is as bad as you might imagine, but this kind of low MPG makes me think something must be wrong. The only thing that seems unusual to me in the car's running is the lag time when it transitions over to the internal combustion engine from a stop or while coasting and the ice is not running. In some very ordinary driving scenarios it feels dangerously long to me. I am not an aggressive driver and I know I'm not driving a Ferrari, but there are many times when you need to move or make a turn etc from a stop rather quickly and these situations can be hair-raising. And it's not something I can counteract with predictive application of the accelerator pedal. I've been thinking lately that it's something that must have gotten worse slowly over time because I don't remember it feeling so bad as it does now. Once the ice is running acceleration feels normal regardless of speed. Sure would appreciate any ideas or insights. Thanks in advance!

I'm brand new here, but my 2010 was exhibiting many of the same symptoms (minus the random chimes.) It was the 12V battery.