JonL

Did you get the problem resolved? What was the diagnosis/repair? I am having the exact same problem with mine but not under warranty. I'll try almost anything to avoid a hefty diagnosis fee and repair bill. Thanks

It isn't that they don't check what is on their check lists. Most techs do. It is that when a car is first built, it is filled with a predetermined amount of fluids. When the dealer does his/her prep, the fluids may well be completely full. Occasionally, there may be a touch of air in the system that had not dissipated by that time. When it comes up, it may leave room for a cup or so of coolant. The dealer doesn't necessarily run the engine form more than a few cycles to running temperature. I think this is normal as long as it doesn't continue to go below the minimum level. Next time you go in for service, I would be sure to make a point of asking them to top it off. Dokeep an eye on it just in case.

I just got my 2013 FFH but I owned a 2005 Escape Hybrid. I didn't have to do either front or rear until it had 130,000. The rear wore out but the front still had another 20-30K left but I did them anyway. One thing I do worry about, especially in areas that use salt and solutions on the road, is sticky calipers and caliper seals deteriorating. I'm in a climate where there isn't much need for salt and solutions but many in the northeast and Midwest are. I would recommend they be checked and a little lube applied to the caliper slides every couple of years. My opinion as an ASE Master Auto Tech.

I agree...to a point. I like the separation it gives but there are times I don't appreciate it. Also, for things that slip around, I bought a Weathertek liner that is very non-slip. Works great and helps keep the trunk neat.

FYI- I just bought a 2013 FFH. No fuel button. Just the touch closure on the lid cover. No fuel filler cap either.

That isn't true in fact, in order to program a MyKey, you have to have 2 admin remotes in the car. Anyway, I have more information. I took my car to the dealer and had them run diagnostic tests. The results are that there is a network problem in the system somewhere. Communication between the modules has broken down somewhere. Don't know at this point exactly where. Anybody had a problem with this? Thanks

I apologize if I had offended you in any way. This is getting realy frustrating. I don't think I need a software engineer. I do wish someone would give me some direction. I stopped in at the dealer yesterday. They couldn't give me any idea of what could be the problem and were not willing to help without my giving them free reign on the diagnosis. Of course they charge by the hour, An exorbitant fee at $125 per hour. A fee I just can't afford.

Well, then, it's kind of funny that my iPhone 5 and my wife's iPhone 6 hasn't caused any problems. And they are connected and disconnected all the time. My son's iPhone 5 was connected only one time, that day, for about 45 minutes. I think this line of thinking is speculation and conjecture at best. I need a solution. FYI-I did a system reset and it made no difference at all. I also went through every setting I could get to, nothing was off. I'm convinced it has something to do with the PATS system but I cannot figure out what/where the problem is. If your doesn't have an alarm or remote control on the key fob, how do you lock/unlock the doors? I DO have remote start but that isn't what I am talking about. I'm talking about the anti-theft system (PATS).

That's interesting but does it have anything to do with my concern? In my Fusion, the Bluetooth works fine. The remotes do not. I can't set the alarm no matter how I try to. I can lock the doors from the switch panel inside. I can lock/unlock them with the touchpad on the outside of the door. I cannot do anything with either remote. I cannot set the alarm from anywhere. THAT is my problem.

My son connected up his iPhone to my car via bluetooth recently. He did it while I was driving the car on an errand. When I tried to used the remote to lock the car and set the alarm when I parked, nothing happened. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors or open the trunk. I have 2 programmed as admin keys but neither one works. Both work to start the car. Also, the door keypad does work to lock and unlock the doors but will not set the alarm. Strangely enough, the TPMS light also is on showing a fault but the tires are all inflated properly. My tire dealer checked the sensors (all OK) and tried to reset it but you need to use the remote to do it and, it cannot be done. Any thoughts on this problem?

Glad the polarized glasses help for you. I bought my 2013 used from a dealer. They had detailed it and put a treatment on the dash that made it very shiny and reflective. I had them remove it but still had some sheen. I got a good leather protectant and put it on myself. Nice matte finish now. Still a little reflection but tolerable. It is kind of spooky to drive into a shadow on a country road and not be able to see anything. One thing I am going to try if it is still problematic in the spring is to get a piece of cloth or felt and sew on a couple of hooks to hitch to the dash. People have commented that their dash was black. Mine is dark grey, not black.

No, it does not. My FFH does not have NAV but still goes into EV+ mode when I am near my home. I'll also chime in on some of the other remarks made about this. Some people state that it hurts your mileage. I did an experiment and found that it does not. My mileage is always up when I use EV+, without question. Second, some say that it is problematic when first starting the car cold. Again, I didn't find that to be an issue at all. If people want to run the engine when they first start up, they can disable the Quiet Start mode and the ICE will start every time. The HV battery level determines when the EV+ mode is used when first starting up. My experiment showed that, when the HV batt was more than 1/3 charged (by the dash indicator), Quiet Start was in effect and EV+ mode engaged. When the HV batt was below that point OR when there was a moderately heavy demand for power, the ICE would engage. Either way, there was little to no mileage effect that I could tell.

Also, given the confined space, gasses from the battery may accumulate and they are flammable. I've seen batteries explode because the fumes were ignited by a spark. One incident sent my brother in law to the hospital for a 2 day stay. It is also the reason why you should always disconnect the negative terminal first and reconnect the negative last.

I had a 2005 Escape hybrid that I towed a small trailer to the transfer station on a weekly basis and I pulled a number of small sea craft and such as well. The towing capacity on the Escape was limited to 800 lbs which was just enough for my purposes. I've read some statements about the suspension on the FFH not being designed for towing. The suspension is pretty much the same for the hybrid as it is for non-hybrids. I think you can tow up to 2000 lbs with them. The biggest difference is the drivetrain, that is, the "transmission". The CVT is not designed for towing. With my Escape, it wasn't an issue at all. In fact, I installed the same hitch that I used on an another '05 Escape for a friend so she could bring back an upright piano on a trailer from her grandmothers home over 400 miles away. It handled it with no issue. I plan on putting one on mine so I can trailer our kayaks to and from the lake. I feel pretty confident in doing it. My only concern for you would be pulling the trailer out of the water. You might ask the service manager how it will affect the warranty if you towed that small trailer. His/her answer might make up your mind about doing it.