ElectricFan69

After Ford's handling - or not handling - of the charging subsystem recall, I decided it was time to move on. Ended up making the full BEV leap to Tesla Model Y long range. Looked at long-and-hard at the Mach E, came to the conclusion it really wasn't competitive in the areas I cared about, like energy efficiency and particularly pricing. Models comparable to the LR were stickered like $10K more - without eligibility for the Federal tax credit or dealer willingness to get even close to the same $$$$. This, coupled with Ford's lackadaisical attitude for product support for anything that's not a honking big truck made me look elsewhere. I know, might be leaping from one frying pan to another - guess time will tell.

What area is it coming out of? If there aren't other problems, maybe something like an axle seal or cleaning and re-sealing the case joint could resolve the problem for lots le$$. Lots easier than swapping the psd (AKA transaxle).

Well, the saga continues. Got a letter from Ford today for a $250 offer for 'not charging your vehicle'. OK, then. So I guess that indicates that the 'fix' is nowhere near?

Well, I got a recall notice above - with no resolution described, but promised for a future date. The described fault / risk is that the Battery Energy Control module can fail due to overvoltage / current overload. The immediate work-around is to stop the plug-in, with a promise of some future fix. That makes the Energi compromise (lack of luggage space) really had to swallow. My typical driving pattern is within the daily plug-in range, so it's several months between gasoline purchases. Now, the charger I have been using can throttle the current - the current observed max has been 14 amps (from the 240 volt circuit), topping up the battery in a couple of hours. IDK if the risk is just with the Ford-branded charger, or what the exact scenario is. That new Prius Prime is looking more appealing with each of Ford's mess-ups...

Get someone with a scan tool to pull the codes for you. The ECU is detecting a fault and going to 'limp home' mode. Without the fault codes, it's all guesswork. And way to many parts to fail without the ECU telling you 'where it hurts'.

Yeah, good luck with that. Ford can't (in states with 'mandatory franchise' legislation) / won't (elsewhere) do anything about stealers charging > $10K for in-demand vehicles or thievery on delivery (surprise add-on charges when picking up a vehicle) for folks that ordered vehicles. And their actions show they don't give 2 flips for for folks that prefer sedans. This kind of 'forced obsolescence' BS has been a thing in consumer electronics and the greed cancer is spreading to vehicles. Other marques have had the 'subscriptionitis' (e.g. BMW charging for android auto as a subscription and is now charging subscriptions $$$ for features like heated seats). This kind of BS will continue and grow as long as sheeple put up with it.

Well, it's officially offline. "App has been de-activated" message and subsequently uninstalled. Now to figure out how to delete account and related data. I guess the end of data leak will be a plus. Is there a way to disable it, since there isn't a 'legitimate' connectivity? In wireless, any open connection service is a security risk, particularly one seeking to connect. I was never able to get a straight answer on costs. This is definitely not a thing worth a subscription or $$$ in 'upgrade' cost. One of the bigger turn-offs with GM brands is the 'On-snoop' and its subscription $$$ and the inability to disable, even when not subscribing.

Thanks. Called a service advisor yesterday, asking for $$$ for the program. No response so far. My case is a bit 'different' in that the '19 is nominally a 2 year 'promo period', but I purchased the car in September '20 as a CPO, which supposedly increases the 'promo period'.

Well, yeah, ATT 3G network is shutting down. ATT site states 'end of February 2022' for their wireless customers. My question is whether other folks are using the MyFordMobile app and whether anyone else is getting the message. Also, has anyone gotten the $$$ figure on 4G upgrade. The app notice states 'talk to your dealer' - and we all know how much fun THAT is (like trying to find someone who can actually give a straight answer).

Just got a notice that MyFordMobile will stop working by the end of this month, and to contact the dealer for cost of a 4G MODEM. Car's a 19 Energi Titanium. At one level, having less snooping and data leakage is good - at another somewhat annoying. Anyone else get a similar notice.

Can't help but wonder if this is a consequence / malfunction of the ANC subsystem. On a prior vehicle with ANC, had an issue where the 'drone' it was supposed to cancel would actually be made worse by the ANC. Kind of recall it being a microphone problem along with a bad speaker. Replacing them made it better for the remainder of that vehicle ownership.

The drop may be from the increased rolling resistance, or from the cold temps and 'winter gas' encountered when the snows are needed. Or a combination of both. Low rolling resistance tires are key to keeping the MPGs as high as possible.

The root cause could be one of any number of things - ranging from something as silly as a loose connector, to damaged wire, to sensor or rack failure. The diagnostic steps in the service manual would be a good place to start - although that will reference the factory scan tool that is too pricey for most DIY folks. With the current crop of computer-networks-on-wheels, a scan tool is a first step to having the car 'tell you where it hurts.' A visit to the dealer or a qualified specialty repair shop would be in order if you haven't the scan tool resources.

Well, the miles racked up do represent accurate distance the chassis has traveled, even though there are components that haven't been in use. Thus the miles shown represent wear experienced for the wheels, tires, hubs, axles/CV joints and the transaxle, even though the ICE hasn't run during that time. In some ways it's the obverse of what certain ICE-only fleet vehicles (e.g. police vehicles) experience, where the miles logged are substantially below the hours spent 'idling'.

You have obviously not driven certain Toyotas with the 3.5 and the 8 speed. In the quest to maximize efficiency, light incremental throttle input from moderate speed cruise will do a 'herk and jerk' until the ECU decides to command a downshift. Work-around is 'aggressive' throttle input. You are right that most manufacturers do a good job of tuning out 'lugging' behavior, particularly with automatic transmissions. The real cause is combustion instability - the combination of ICE load, and valve timing, ignition timing, EGR and RPM yields unstable combustion which shows up as mechanical roughness due to 'wrong time' cylinder pressure peaks. The 'float on oil fail' isn't really a cause - more like a consequence of peak pressure exceeding oil film strength. Any significant duration of that will destroy bearings. Smooth ICE performance requires peak cylinder pressure some time after top dead center of the power stroke - exactly how many degrees depends on the piston / crank / con rod geometry. It also requires a smooth build of pressure - pre-ignition results in multiple local peaks that load the piston surface unevenly. This result in resonance / flop that is audible as 'ping'. I don't get what you're saying in 'pumping losses on coasting'. With many modern ICE tunes, the fuel injection will effectively be shut off, thus no loss - the pumping is used to slow the car down. Otto / Atkinson cycle pumping losses are at light-load cruise, where manifold vacuum is high. That manifold vacuum requires flywheel energy to overcome - leading to a less efficient power output. That is one of the things that makes Diesel cycle more efficient (other being high expansion ratio) - running without throttling air minimizes the pumping losses on the intake cycle to the pressure drop across the valves. As to minimizing RPM - that is really about minimizing frictional losses, including hydraulic losses. Higher ICE RPM have more friction overhead.

The more nuanced and accurate is that the PEAK efficiency of ICE is approaching 40%, rather than the AVERAGE efficiency. Toyota and Hyundai have made much hash (and been recognized by SAE) for the improved efficiency, and their best ICE is just hitting 40%. Specific to the Fusion ICE, the figure I've seen is in the low 30's. Which is still much better than the 'average bear', but, still, a ways from the 45% number. As to the 'right' cruising RPM - well, it really depends on the ICE tune. This includes intake and exhaust runner length, port shape, cam lift, bore/stroke ratio, ignition and cam timing and just about every other ICE design parameter. The Fusion/Toyota PSD does a commendable job of keeping the ICE in the efficiency 'happy place' that also avoids 'lugging' behavior and excessive NVH. The electric motors do a great job of masking the relatively wimpy torque of the Atkinson cycle ICE. The 'rule of thumb' for Otto cycle ICE is to run as near wide-open-throttle to minimize pumping losses, which typically includes low RPM and as much EGR as can be tolerated and still get reliable ignition. Note that isn't driver input - it's the ECU telling the throttle body, fuel injection and EGR to go the efficiency happy place. As to things like 'water injection' - well, it can be useful in managing pre-ignition, allowing higher expansion ratios and 'better' ignition timing, while keeping peak temps out the the NOx-ious range. They have been in use under specific use cases that makes the expense and complexity 'worth it'. Think high-boost turbo ICE. The biggest liability of high intake temps center around uncontrolled combustion - like pre-ignition. Including 2 cycle oil in an Otto cycle ICE will create significant emissions liability, as well as put converter flow at risk (excess ash causing plugging). The increase is emissions makes it undesirable. The devil's bargain that EU regulators made with tolerating high particulate and NOx emissions 'back in the day ' to achieve relatively good fuel consumption numbers really highlights how undesirable that is.

Your vehicle has to have Ford Pass connect, per the app. The fact it's a '15 may or may not be the crucial factor, as optional car features are involved, and your car may not have them. Given that 'connected car' thing is of recent emphasis in Ford, the feature may indeed be only for the last model year or 2 - mentions of 'phone unlock' is a recent feature, and I don't recall such a thing being available when we got our '16.

Different Ford dealers can get you the 'original' Monroney sticker re-printed with the VIN. That will tell you all the packages installed. Ford used to provide that 'for free', but that seems to be more restricted these days. There are some sites that claim to do that for a price. Search "Ford Monroney sticker print" for sites...

The hybrid circuit has few basic places where it would be hard to determine a leak: The PSD (AKA "Transmission" ). The coolant loss could manifest in lube contamination for internal leaks - other versions leaking to the outside of the case should show up in the UV dye. Checking / changing the PSD lube would eliminate or confirm that possibility. There are instruction on this site on how to do that - https://fordfusionhybridforum.com/forum/11-maintenance-do-it-yourself/, look for the PSD fluid posts. The inverter internal heat exchanger. This could be relatively obscured, and I have yet to see any tear-down videos or service parts. The inverter seems to be a 'non-field-serviceable' part - you just pull and replace. And it's EPEN$IVE, so you need to be sure. Coolant pump and hoses - these should be readily apparent as source with fluorescent dye. Heat exchanger - again, by its nature, should be pretty obvious with the dye test. The volume lost should make the leaking part obvious with the dye test, if it 's at all accessible. The lack of evidence leads me to the hidden heat exchangers - but even those should show up schmutz of evaporated coolant near the vent points, or in the lube, given the loss volume.

I think the OP's point was that they attempted to resolve it, but with no result, now claiming it was 'normal' - an assertion that is stuffed with dairy barn sweepings. Based on the described behavior, I'd suspect a sealing issue that happens under 'dynamic load'. This would be in a seal between case segments for the PSD It should show up as a pressure test leak-down - and may, eventually. Also, the PSD and ICE coolant circuits are separate. ICE circuit typically runs pressurized, and at much higher temperatures. The loss of pressure would indicate an ICE leak. From the original post, it seems that it's the hybrid system that is losing volume - to the OP, would you confirm / clarify that? The cooling system has 2 separate circuits - which one is losing volume? The ICE circuit overflow reservoir is on the RH wheel well - the PSD circuit reservoir is on / near the inverter. Based on everything I've seen, the 2 circuits are not connected. Looking at the PSD circuit cap, it also does not seem to be designed to pressurize. I would hope they verified lubricant integrity - if it's leaking into the PSD case, the pink mayo that results from coolant contamination will cause a failure in bearings. The loss volume described would certainly be enough to indicate contamination if it's going into the lubricant.

One of the most fundamental questions: What is your score on the in-car display? Do you consistently get 'good' scores in the acceleration, braking, an Cruise categories (one of the menu choices in the fuel efficiency display, between 'leaves' and 'bar graph' on the right-hand display). Use the feedback tools in the car to help you improve the driving efficiency. The things that dramatically increase fuel consumption: High speed. Cruising at 80 will drive fuel consumption upward dramatically. For 75+ cruise, mid 30's is actually good. Very short trips, coupled with shut-down, particularly combined with heavy A/C load. Ditto if you use remote start to pre-cool the cabin. Being 'one of THOSE guys' who races to the next stoplight and brakes hard to stop at the red light. This will show up as very poor braking score on the display mentioned above. Regen has a relatively low max rate, with friction brakes taking over. Friction brakes throw away energy. Unless you have a plug-in forcing EV mode will only help when you move the car in and out of the driveway. The non-Energi variants don't have battery with a big enough capacity, or use algorithms to keep it state of charge high enough for significant non-ICE use.

Well, there was a good reason why Android Auto wasn't working. Got the car into the local Ford dealer, they replaced the USB ports, and the thing is functional. The dealer also upgraded the Sync to 3.4 at my request. The refreshed UI is a step sideways - not sure how I like the fonts / colors that come with, or how to tailor them to my preference. Strangely, the UI and colors give me a 'stock' Win8 vibe - even though it's a Linux OS. Thing works well enough, and seems stable, but the aesthetics - ugh... The default font, in particular, just rubs me wrong. Anyone figured out a way to change it? Have mixed emotions on a bunch of the features 'unlocked' with Android Auto, as they require the data-hoovering Assistant to be active and fully permissive. Google Maps is a step up over the built-in nav maps, my podcast app is nicely integrated into the head unit.

How does this compare with ABS pumping action? Wonky ABS could make jerking motion - but those have typically a robust self-test that set a fault code. I'd look for something loose in either brakes or suspension that moves when applying the friction brakes hard. It would need to be something with 'sticktion' that would not allow quick movement to the 'reset' position. Step 1 would be a carefool look at the components for signs of wear or loose components.

The app is "MyFord Mobile" on google play. Based on the app highlights / comments, it seems the answer is yes, but also includes the Ford Electric Focus. "Free" for the first 5 years, then surcharged. The data provided is charge-centric, but it also has unlock and remote lock capability. MyFordMobile.com is a referenced website.

Tried it a bit ago - and a confirmation dialog showed up. WOW! talk about SLOW response... Thanks for the info. It really would be helpful if Ford documented the time lag in the app 'help' pages. Guess that explains some of 'rant' reviews the app is getting...