tmaxx

My 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has 229k miles. I am looking into performing some preventative maintenance. I realize some things are long overdue... I have mostly just repaired things as they break, but realize I should do more preventative maintenance as the car is getting higher mileage... I have replaced the front springs/struts since both springs were broke. I have replaced a few front suspension parts. Other than that, I haven't done any other maintenance. I plan to keep the car as long as possible. It's a daily driver and has been very reliable. I am looking for suggestions for what I should replace as part of preventative maintenance. Please offer suggestions. Thanks!

I never use "Auto" feature. I just adjust the dial to max temperature since it's been so freezing cold here.

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. I live in Indiana, so a heater is essentially during the winter months. A few days ago my heater stopped blowing heat. There was a very small amount of heat coming out of the vents even on max setting. I tried swapping out the heater blower relay with the rear defroster relay in the engine compartment relay box. When I swapped the relays, the heater fan started working agan. I then swapped the relays back to the original configuration and the heater was still working so I wasn’t sure what to conclude. I drove the car for a few more days and the heater worked fine. This morning, I started my car for work and the heater turned on momentarily and then nothing except for a very small amount of heat on max setting. I started off to work and about half way into my drive (20minutes), the heater came on full and worked for the remaining drive. So it seems the heater fan is intermittently working. Any ideas on how I could troubleshoot this or what I should look at replacing? It’s going to get very cold here in Indiana soon, so I don’t want to end up losing heat again! Thanks.

I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid. The heated seat on the passenger side works, but the driver's side doesn't work. When I press the Driver's heated seat button, the two red lights come on and then turn off after about 2 seconds. I removed the leather cover off the driver's seat (bottom) and inspected the heating element. I didn't see any obvious burns anywhere. Is it possible that the heating element is bad with no visible signs? I thought of checking the continuity of the element to make sure there were no breaks, but I am not sure the pinout on the connector. Is it possible to check the continuity of the heating element? Also, I didn't take off the back of the seat cover to inspect that heating element. It's much more difficult to get the back of the driver's seat cover off. thx

I just took my first trip in my 2003 McKenzie Rogue Class C (E-450 V10) flat towing a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. My tow bar is a NSA Ready Brake Elite (integrated surge brake). On my way home we took a different route which involved lots of steep climbs and descents. As we came out of the hills, and onto flat land, I noticed a shimmy in the front end of my RV. I also noticed a smell. I pulled over the side of the road and when I touched the outside of the two front tire rims, they were smoking hot. I am guessing the shimmy in the front end was the rotors heating up and beginning to warp. I sat for awhile and let things cool down then made the rest of the trip home with no issues. I am thinking that the surge brake on the tow bar wasn't engaging the toad brakes to supplement the braking. As I understand on the Ford Fusion Hybrid (from Ford publications), you put it in nuetral and turn the key to the off position. Actually it's between accessory and off. I tried testing out the brakes in this configuration without being attached to the motorhome. I put the Fusion at the top of a steep driveway, put the transmission into nuetral and turned the key all the way counterclockwise. As the car rolled forward, I attempted to apply the brakes. I had to practically stand on the brake pedal to get the vehicle to stop. I let off the brakes and tried again. Same outcome. I then turned the key to the accessory position. The dash board lights stay on. With the transmission in neutral, I let the vehicle roll down and I applied the brakes. Much less effort required. My theory at this point is that with the key not in the accessory position, the brakes are being operated manually without any "power". It may be that the surge brake can't overcome the threshold to actually get the brakes to engage. When towing a vehicle, are the vehicle brakes supposed to be manual or powered? Is there anyone else towing a Ford Fusion Hybrid who can provide some guidance? What auxiliary braking systems are others using with the FFH? We are going on a trip to Utah and Arizona on July 1st, so I need to get this figured out

Yes, I have these instructions. It's just not clear to me when the key is in the "off" position. I assume once I put the car in nuetral and turn the key counterclockwise as far as it will go, then this is the "off" key position. That's all I as looking to clarify. Thanks.

I am preparing to tow my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid for the first time tomorrow. I tried turning on the key, putting the vehicle in nuetral and then I turned the key counter-clockwise as far as it would go. It would not come out, so I assume I leave it in the ignition while towing. The interior bell rang for awhile then stopped. Does all this sound like the right procedure? Thanks.

Do you know why is this battery only available from Ford? I am guessing being a Ford only part, it's $$$$.

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid which I want to flat tow behind my Class C RV. Does the same apply to model year 2010? Should I put in nuetral and turn off the key?

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. Has 138k miles. I've got a strange issue that pops up sometimes. It seems like it happens after the car has sat for a few days without driving or if I leave the radio playing with the key in accessory mode. When I attempt to "start" the car, the dashboard lights will randomly flash and then start clicking non-stop. The only way to get this to stop is to hook up jumper cables to the battery and another car. Then I can "start" the car. Of course, it's not running, it's in battery mode. Anyway, could this be a bad engine start battery? I don't get any dash indications that I have a low battery though, just the strange dashboard light activity. Any help is appreciated.