FernMTL

The tower brace no, rear sway bar yes

Got the letter 2 weeks ago; no solution available yet ;(. Don't think anybody had it fixed.

If it helps http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/11044-rear-rattles-at-high-speed/

Sounds like your battery pack vent. It's normal to hear it, It just depend how loud the sound is. If it's as loud as you say, then I think it is not normal. Make sure there's nothing blocking the air traps under your backglass.

With gas prices that low, Dealer's are battling to sell these cars. I've worked for Ford in 2013-2015 and i've seen Energi's sitting for months in parking lots. Go around dealers and ask for quotes, real quotes, and I wouldn't be surprised that you walk out with a brand new Fusion for a couple more grands than a use one. When I bought my Hybrid, the dealer almost thank me to get if off the inventory.

Nice to see the love you got for those cars. Here's a link for the antenna :http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9011-shark-fin-antenna-now-available/

Probably sure they come from the seat belt pillars. Didn't want to play there with the airbags. I just crank the music a bit more :) The problem with rattles is that you think you've isolated where it comes from but then it seems like It's coming from somewhere else. Best thing to turn you nuts haha.

No. I've removed the door panels, added sound dampening and It help. But the rattles are back :(

The rear bake calipers are set up that your pads are close to the disks. It's efficient for braking, as it respond right away, but for a lot of owner, you can hear a metal rubbing sound now and then. That happens when rust spots build up on your disks. Most of the time, I only hear that sound when I'm next to a wall, or passing a car as It rebounds the sound.

Plan is Apple GPS, what phone you have?

1. In your Map App, go to sound settings and log it to SYNC. You might have to do it every time you get in the car as some Apps don't switch automatically form phone to car. I use Plan and It works like a charm. 2. Have you log you car to the fordowner website? You might need a SYNC update.

2 year warranty is good. Let them fix it.

Don't bother taking off your number ;). What I understand is that you don't actually have the relay harness installed? If no, It cost 20$ and your problem is over.

Normally, DRL's runs at 6V and 12v the rest of the time. To eliminate this problem, your relay as to be connected directly to your 12V battery to get constant 12v. Xenon bulb needs constant 12V and 23 000 Volts for a fraction of a second to trigger, that's what your ballasts (with integrated or exterior capacitor) are used for. That's why one of your bulb doesn't trigger sometimes, you're not getting enough power to the bulbs. On my previous car, I've plugged the relay directly to the 12 V car battery, then to the ballasts and bulbs. The relay as a wire that you can connect to the OEM bulb wire to get the signal (low-high). Your OEM bulb wires should never be use to get power to your ballasts. If you can take pictures of your setup, It would help us.

Rattle FOUND!!!! If you look at the picture, I'm pointing the ''cardboard'' piece that was not placed properly. It was touching the metal body and was causing the rattle. I've replaced it behind the rubber seal and haven't hear the rattle since. A 2 seconds fix that took me months to find haha.