ORRanger

Thanks, Larry. Are "retrial" and "reset" are the same thing? The tire people have been using reset. I'll see what the dealer service department says. The dealer service I use is excellent, but it seems I never get out of there for under $500 when there's a problem. It's like the flat rate manual starts there! :) It's probably that I'm old enough to remember $0.25/gal gasoline! (And less during "gas wars").

Re: 2017 Fusion Hybrid Titanium. Question: Can I use 2016 Fusion Titanium wheels on my 2017 Fusion Titanium hybrid without changing the TPMS sensors? I assumed the 2016 wheels would be fine, so I mounted a set of winter tires on the 2016 wheels and have them on my 2017. They did work fine for a few weeks until we were driving in a drenching rain, and the TPMS system failure warning light came on. I did a visual inspection of all four wheels and saw nothing obvious (wheel pressure showed a black on the display). We were close to a store where we bought the tires, so we stopped. They confirmed that tire pressure in all four wheels was up to snuff and then tried to reset the TPMS, but it didn't reset. Ultimately, they concluded that the 2016 sensors are incompatible for the 2017 Fusion, and that I needed to replace the 2016 sensors with 2017 sensors. This was based on different FMCO part numbers on the 2016 and 2017. I've subsequently confirmed with a dealer parts dept. that the numbers are different and that this normally means the parts are not interchangeable, but they weren't sure. I have been driving the car for a 5 days in continued wet weather with the TPMS system failure light coming on, but no change in tire pressure or any other problems. Then, the TPMS system mysteriously began to work again when the weather cleared, and continues to work. Any thoughts on this? I admit, I don't want to spend the money on new sensors if I don't need them. I included the detail about the weather on the thought that maybe this is a weather-related problem. This is my second Fusion hybrid (first was a 2103) and one thing I've found is that with these high tech cars, the old rules don't necessarily apply, such as 2016 wheels should be the same as 2017 wheels.

Rats! Thanks for the reply, but I sure wish it were otherwise! I think I can duplicate the data of the lifetime summary by using one of the trip odometers, or come close anyway. Not as convenient, and depends on how high the odometer goes.

I have a new 2017 Fusion Titanium hybrid, which replaced my 2013 Titanium Fusion Hybrid. On my 2013, when I shut off the ignition, I'd get a display on the left with the "Trip Summary," which is the data on mpg, brake score, etc. from the last time the ignition was turned on. Then, I'd get a "Lifetime Summary" with the same data over the lifetime of the car. I really liked this feature and used the data very effectively in selling my 2013. But--and here's my question--I don't get the "Lifetime Summary" on my 2017 and can't find any way to get it. Anyone know how to do this, or whether it's no longer available. The latter would really bum me out!!

The wrench light on my 2013 hybrid Titanium came on last Friday night. The drive train shut down and I had to pull over (steering still worked). I shut off the car, then started again and was able to drive home normally with the wrench light still on. The next morning, there was no more light and it hasn't returned. I made an appointment with my dealer's shop to get this checked for error codes, but they called back to say it would be pointless unless the wrench light is on. But also only if I don't stop and restart the car because they say the stopping and restarting cancels out any information on the computer. I've never heard of this before. Does it make sense? I thought error codes were stored in the computer anytime a trouble light comes on. I'm also concerned because the car is on the cusp of the end of the warranty. My worry is that the light will come on again for the same problem just as the odometer kicks over and Ford's off the hook and I'm on it for any repairs. Is it possible that the wrench code came on when there was no problem? Some kind of "glitch?"

Thanks for the insights--I will pass them on to the dealer. The sensor may be it. I also had an incident where the car cancelled the collision warning and ACC because it said the sensors were blocked, when in fact they weren't blocked. In this instance, I do think the service people are taking this seriously and are genuinely stumped. I will be out of range for any wifi, etc for a few days and will leave the car at the shop to give them all the time they need. So, if I don't respond to any further postings right away, this is why. OrRanger

The dealer has confirmed my APA is behaving erratically but is stumped on how to fix it. It's erratic because sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It will fail to recognize a valid parking space, and also will tell me to stop and begin the automatic park when my A pillar is roughly aligned with the first parked car's front bumper. In other words, far too soon, when I'm only half way through the available parking space. It worked fine for 17K miles until 3 weeks ago, when the false positive rate for the collision warning system also jumped. I do have the collision system set on maximum sensitivity so I expect some false positives and do get them, but until now there has always been a reasonable explanation, such as a very narrow shoulder-less road going into a left turn, when it will pick up a guard rail or tree. Now it sounds the alarm when there is nothing like this going on. Dealer thinks they have the collision warning problem covered with a software update. There are no service bulletins on the active park assist problem. The dealer is communicating with Ford's "hotline" but I'm wondering if anyone has experienced problems with active park assist. Thanks.

Did you mean it is (or could be) the seal if paper can be slipped past it because dust is smaller than paper?

Yes. The dust build-up is between the seals.

Thanks for the feedback. Last summer, we went to a wedding at a wedding venue that had several miles of gravel road at the end. Fortunately, we had no one in the rear seats. If we had, they would have not been able to exit the car without getting their fancy duds dirty especially from dust build-up on the C pillar. I did note an article in Automotive News this week that Ford is having trouble with quality from parts suppliers. This is a problem serious enough that Ford acknowledges it and it merits a write-up in AN. This seal does seem especially "soft" to me. With door closed, I can easily slide a slip of common printer paper between the door seal and the body. Could be a case in point for the issued in the AN article. I think I will try another dealer.

I'm wondering whether anyone else has encountered a problem I am having with the rear door seals on my '13 TiHy. If I drive on a dry gravel road, road dust infiltrates so badly that the back seat gets covered with dust. I've had it to the dealer who says that everything is fine, i.e., everything meets specs and I shouldn't expect more. I've had a couple dozen new cars in my lifetime (plus a bunch of used cars) and never seen anything like this. Took the TiHy to a body shop for a consultation and they agreed that the dust is not normal, but that the seals appeared to be in place, and the doors are fitted well--gaps, etc, are all aligned. Its the same on both rear doors, indicating that this may be a design or seal quality issue. The problem appears to be on the bottom of the door seal, as the photo shows. The gray area is actually a thick layer of road dust, where out should be black if the seal were tight. The dust enters here and then collects on the rocker panel between the door and body seals and the C pillar and (to a lesser extent) on the B pillar. When the rear door is opened or closed, the dust is strewn over the rear seat. Any thoughts?

We have 4,500 miles on our '13 Fusion Hybrid Titanium and generally regard it as an extraordinarily good car. However, as seniors with back problems (and that's about 100% of seniors) the passenger seat is a problem because it is too low and not height adjustable. Many back issues, such as the very common sciatica, can be managed with proper seats, especially the height. We're much better off if the seat is more or less "chair-like" on height. So, the height-adjustable driver seat is splendid, better in our opinion than the Volvos we have been driving partly because of Volvo's excellent seats. But the passenger seat is much more like a sports car seat--set very low. So, does anyone know of an after market kit to raise the passenger seat? It looks to me like it should be easily doable, even if I have to have something fabricated. I hear on this forum that the '14 will have an adjustable passenger seat, so I suppose in principle that would be an option, but it would be horrendously expensive, requiring anew wiring harness (amazing how pricey they are!!) as well as the seat itself, etc.